Zenobian_84

:ack: The unfortunate life of a moderator. Anything that makes life easier for you Pete should be a good thing. :cheers: :chillin:

Am totally unfamiliar with VWs as a whole. :dunno: I say go for it though. You don't see too many people swap in something out of the ordinary on these rigs other than the usual: Chevy 350 GM 3.1 / 3.4 Jeep 4.6 or higher Stroker Not that there's anything wrong with those engines. It's definitely nice to see something out of the ordinary around here though. :cheers: :wrench:

Is that an Eliminator badge I see on that picture in the link? Or a Gladiator badge? Either way, I still think that truck looks sharp. :brows: I wish they'd stop messing around already and just give a yes or a no. All they have to do is build a 2 door, extended cab version of the Comanche like they should have done (at least had the option to buy one like that) back in '86. Just sayin'.

Looks pretty good; I'll hold my tongue for a final thought until after a week of using it. Looking forward to it though! :cheers:

:clapping: Very nice! Perspective is good. I can draw pretty dern well, but I can't draw cars to save my life. :thumbsup:

Got a late start on prepping the bed. I blame a good lunch. :yes: Washed everything first, then the FL heat took care of the drying. Looks different without the toolbox inside. An hour later with one coat of AT. No more AMC Midnight Blue; at least, none that's really visible. :wrench: Will finally have a completely painted truck by tomorrow's end. Except for the jambs, but nobody ever looks at those :yes: :banana: I'm also going to finish the painting the final fender flare. :brows:

If I didn't know any better Ben, I'd swear that was Dirty Harry you were standing next to. :yes:

Started my glorious weekend today. Spent the entire day sleeping it away though. :ack: Did manage to get the other OEM floor mat painted black though. Just need to throw one more coat on it in the morning. Headed out to Lowe's and picked up another quart of "Afternoon Tea" to start on the bed tomorrow morning. I should have it done by the day's end, if no interruptions occur. - - - On a side note - - - Picked up the busted (needs 2 strings and the bridge / Floyd Rose re-calibrated) '91 MG40 for a Bryan Adams jam session while I surfed here and on IFSJA. I'm probably taking it back into the repair shop along with the Squire Bullet next paycheck. The MG40 won't be too much to get worked on, but the Bullet is going to need some serious attention. Might even throw a decent set of pickups on it depending on what I want to use it for. We'll see :brows: nCBASt507WA

Decided I'm going to start the process of getting the inside of the bed painted to match the rest of the truck when I get off from work tomorrow. The only downside is having to sand down the bed... Oh well; at least the truck will have a 100% matching paintjob when I'm done. :yes: :wrench:

Depending on what you repair / replace could mean the difference between a good or bad sell. Depending on: How rusty the floor / frame is --- This is entirely the MOST important point with these trucks, as you may or may not be aware. If it's rusty and crusty, then you aren't likely to get much more than you paid for it. Condition of the paint ----Easily a + / - $500-1000 How well the 4 Cyl runs / mileage on the engine and drivetrain ---- Modest + / - $200 Maintenance, and how well the interior looks --- Depends on the person buying it. + / - 100 Honestly, if it's a solid running, solid driving, good looking rig, you can MAYBE get $2000 out of it. Sadly, although it may have low mileage / wear and tear on the drivetrain, these things aren't known for their resale value. You'd be hard pressed to get even $3000 for a very nice looking 2WD 2.5. A 4.0 4WD in good shape, maybe. Like the old saying goes: It's all about what the other guy is willing to pay for it, not what you think it's worth.

:thumbsup: :cheers: Sounds like it was a nice surprise. Wish I lived closer to some of you guys out West; would be nice to be able to talk cars with people who know their stuff.

I had the idea of picking up a spare 2.5 / small AMC V8 a while back and doing a complete re-build on either; since I plan on going to school next year as an auto technician. How familiar / in-depth with replacing things on the 4.0 are you? If it were me, I would get an engine stand and check out the internals of it and learn to replace things as I went along. :wrench: Specifically: Rear Main Seal, Rollers, Cam, Oil pump, Lifters, etc etc. Besides, there's plenty of 4.0s out there you can pick up for cheap; in case something got messed up. As for storing it, be sure to block off any and all ports or open holes whether you store it on the floor or on a stand. Critters and bugs love to make nests inside engines, not to mention they tend to accumulate dust and dirt. Wouldn't hurt to put some mothballs on and around the engine either. :cheers: An even better idea would be to put a large, clear bag around the engine if it were on a stand, with mothballs inside and outside of the bag. Keep in mind also that when you plan on storing an engine for an extended period of time (6 months +) any and all gaskets will probably have to replaced when its put into a running vehicle. Or so I've been told. :dunno:

*Sam's extremely long informative post* (Don't want to clog the thread up) Source: ME with a background in alternative fuels and a distiller. well then. Back to the drawing board to fit a 4bt in the manche. Jesus Sam. That's was quite the rebuttle. Methinks you're quite ready for the end of the world. Makes pretty good sense to me, and I don't even have a background in distilling OR alternative fuels.

Words I was looking for in this video: Stabilizer Shock (not Bar) and Harmonic Balancer. Strangely, not a drop of oil on the oil pan... SrLSKBgeWcE Shortly after posting this vid, the sky literally started coming down and a few garbage cans started rolling around in the street. :eek: I had to wait around to get a ride to the auto-parts store to pick up some 10/12 gauge connectors to connect the starter to the central electronic hub. I always seem to run out of what I need at the worst possible times... :roll: Here's how it sat once I finished cleaning up everything and rolled it away from the garage. Smug Jeep. :yes: Re-painted the old plastic and the new aluminum valve covers I picked up. Got fancy with the plastic, and not-so-fancy with the aluminum. Nice alternator. Lets hope it can pass the originals record of 25 years. :ack: After everything was nice and finished, took it for a spin around town listening to these guys. :chillin: Can definitely tell the difference of the newer one from the old one. Seems to have a bit more get-up-and-go power now than it used to. Could just be my imagination though. s6BTTJo1KmM

Wow, am pretty impressed. I've only seen a handful of those down in the south; and most of them were NOWHERE near as nice as that one is. :cheers: Sounds like you had a good time. :yes:

Neat pictures! :yes:

Thanks Fiat. That gives me an idea of what I want to do now. :thumbsup: :wrench:

You just need to: 1. Take the door panel off. 2. Take out the old door catch mechanism. 3. Install a new DCM with a big washer (one on the inside, and one on the outside of the bolt) to grab what metal surrounds the bottom bolt hole. 4. Connect the linkage as it should be. 5. Re-install door panel. 6. Jeep on. No door removal or welding needed. :thumbsup:

Ok? I don't see why you don't just get rid of the Jeep if it's "Not very nice". Have you ever even tried any sort of drifting before? Let alone while in a pickup truck? I have, and it's definitely not something you should do with new tires, let alone garbage mudders. Also, in case you haven't noticed, all those guys that do drifting in Rice Rockets are tools. The reason everyone is commenting here is so you don't get into a @#$%ing wreck and kill yourself; let alone someone else who doesn't feel like dying yet.

Don't know how I completely missed the belt tensioner. Loosened that up and removed the lower brackets holding the alternator in place. Had to remove the brackets anyway to get some serious grime off them. Now I just have to re-install everything tomorrow. Hopefully the install will go smoother than the removal. :ack: EDIT---- Also, No power steering setup on my truck. Not sure how that would work then; aside from undoing the belt-tensioning bolt.

First off, I wish this manual specified the procedure for the 4 cylinder engine. I'm fairly certain this is for the 6 cyl, because as you see below, I've removed more than the "alternator adjustment + pivot bolts" and still can't get this darn thing off. #1 is a long skinny one holding it to the 2.5 bracket. #2 is the idler pulley. I removed #4 first, another main one holding the actual alternator to the bracket. I then removed #3 because I figured I have to remove the bracket along with the alternator. # 5 was the other main bolt holding the alt to the bracket. #'s 6/7 are 2 that I believe connect the bracket to the block. They are under the pulley, and above one another. Is it time for me to pull out the hammer and start pounding this thing out? Or am I correct in that I have to remove the bracket along WITH the alternator to get it out? I would have taken the pulley off the alternator, but I don't have a socket bigger than 7/8s to remove it. :mad: Can you even remove that pulley? :dunno: :help:

In the process of swapping alternators. The duo of AMC and the PO are formidible. I believe the PO used a longer bolt for the top bracket mount.... :roll: Have to tap it at the end to get it against the bracket. It's definitely going in the trash.

If it makes you feel any better, I have the same problem. Except I don't have the Chief stripings down the side of my doors. You might be able to get away with using a larger washer to grab what chunk of the door is still left for the bottom bolt on the driver's door. That's where it's messed up on mine. I'm just waiting to go get a few of those hinge kits from the P&P next time I go. When I get it fixed, I'll post up here and let everyone know how it went, and what I did. :thumbsup:

Not quite sure what you mean by "Having fun with garbage tires on wet pavement" other than a very probable (not to mention costly) trip to the ER and a wrecked pickup. :fool: :no: But I would assume that any mud tire that is strictly off road use would suffice. :dunno: Just do a quick Google search.

Am ungodly jealous of that interior. Wow; I believe that's only the 2nd one I've ever seen (bucket setup). Nice work getting everything out to send it on it's way. :wrench: