derf

I would suggest doing a side-by-side comparison of the ratios with a calculator that tells you everything you need to know: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Plug in your information and compare the ratios side by side. The best bet for the most accurate results is to find the "revolutions per mile" for your tire. The P-metric numbers are rarely correct. And the advertised outside diameter is also almost always wrong. But the revolutions per mile tends to be pretty accurate. I usually go to tirerack.com and look up the exact tire I'm running. In the specs they have a column for revolutions per mile. Plug that in and play with the axle ratios to see how they run.

I wouldn't waste money going just one step. There isn't enough difference between 3.55s and 3.73s. If I were going to change gears I'd go with 4.10s. I'm running 4.56s with 32s up in the mountains and it's a good combination. 31s with 4.10s is a good combo.

That's one way to do it...

The J10's have a 5,000 pound tow rating. The J20s have a little more, maybe up to 10,000 pounds but I can't remember exactly. I had a J10 I was going to make into a tow rig but it was just going to cost way too much to do the upgrades and legally it was still rated at only 5,000 pounds which can be a liability issue.

Getting custom leaf springs will give you good ride quality. You can get a softer spring rate that way. Going to coil springs involves mounting control arms. The gas tank may be in the way depending on how exactly you mount the arms. It would have to be 4 parallel links with a track bar/panhard bar, similar to the front. Even then, the tank may still be in the way. Any kind of triangulated 4 link would require the tank to be moved. There is no kit to do this so it would all be custom fabrication work. It's possible but you either need to be able to do that work yourself or pay someone else to do it. I'm planning on doing a triangulated 4 link on my Comanche but I've done fabrication work and I have a plan for relocating the fuel tank (and replacing it with a different tank from another vehicle)

I didn't realize anyone was still using flash on websites any more. Must be a legacy company website that no one is willing to spend the money to upgrade. And last I read, Edge was going to be based on the Chrome engine at some point so MS has finally abandoned the lost browser wars at last. No more Microsoft specific extensions screwing things up.

People still use Internet Exploder?

There always seems to be a dozen Cherokees in the salvage yards around here in the Denver area. I imagine it's the same elsewhere. If you want to grab fenders from a salvage yard be sure to bring T25 and T27 torx head sockets. That's what most of the bolts have.

First things I would check is the wires leading up to the gauge. They might be somehow grounded. Or they may be broken/separated/etc. My old J-10 had a wire that kept coming off the sender after a couple of weeks and it would do something like that until I plugged it back in. It might also be a wire that's been pinched and grounded somewhere. I would try to see if the wires are connected at the tank sender. If one came off, plug it back in and it should be fixed. If that's fine, I'd pull the cluster and test the wire with an ohm meter. Find the pin for the wire to the sender and check resistance between it and chassis ground. If it's 0 or infinite, you know you have a problem in the wire. 0 = pinched wire that needs to be fixed. Infinite = broken wire that needs to be replaced. If it's somewhere in the dozens of ohms (depending on fuel level) it's fine. Next, test the gauge following the example above. If the gauge is broken, that's what you need to fix. I'd start by testing resistance between the connector on the cluster and the gauge itself. If that's 0 ohms, it's fine. If it's infinite, the connection is broken. Then test the gauge.

I have the Crusader on my 2001 Cherokee that has the fenders already cut from the factory since it's the newer generation front end. It's a nice bumper. If you want to preserve sheet metal, even if just for someone else, you could look at grabbing the front clip (fenders and grill) from a newer Cherokee and bolting it all up. Or you can find some junkyard fenders from a Comanche or older Cherokee that have already been cut. There are other options out there for bumpers which won't involve you cutting up any sheet metal. I had an ARB Bull Bar on a previous Cherokee. They do make a model that fits an older front end without cutting any sheet metal. It is a stout bumper with a good heavy bar. It's an option for you to consider. https://www.quadratec.com/products/12000_8001_07.htm

Yeah, I know about the recall. Never bothered getting it done. Thanks for the info.

Feeling a little punk.

This is my 2001 XJ. It would be interesting to see what it left the factory with.

Yeah, it looks like they stuffed those under a rig sitting on it's tires. Then again... never underestimate people trying to be "clever".

Hydroboost is good when you don't have space for a vacuum booster. Chevy Astro vans have hydroboost that works with stock axles. It's also good when you're running one ton axles and huge tires. Cons for hydroboost are increasing the hydraulic plumbing complexity and you need an upgraded pump and cooler.

Welcome to the forum. This place is pretty active considering how few MJs were built and how long ago. Brakes are pretty straightforward to fix. First start by a good bleed of the whole system. Start with the back passenger side, then back driver side, then front passenger, finally front driver side. Make sure the fluid level in the reservoirs doesn't get low or you get to bleed the whole system over again. If you still have issues, my next step would be to replace old rubber lines. One in the back, two in the front. Naturally, you'll have to bleed the brakes again after installing them. If you're doing this, it wouldn't hurt to swap in fresh calipers in the front and wheel cylinders in the back "as long as you're in there". Parts are cheap and plentiful at Rock Auto. If that doesn't fix it, you probably want to replace or rebuild the master cylinder. And, of course, do round 3 of bleeding the whole system. Another "as long as you're in there" proposition is to replace/upgrade the vacuum booster. I don't remember the year they changed over but a newer XJ dual diaphragm booster bolts right in and works better than what the Comanche came with. Again, Rock Auto has a good selection of parts available. If you're going to replace the booster, one for a 2000 or 2001 Cherokee with a matching master cylinder would be the right choice. As far as the hose, I'd need a few pictures to help.

Tapatalk adds its own signature text to the post itself. It's not really a signature because the forum has separate signatures that are handled differently. I quoted your post here and your full signature showed up in the quote because it was a tapatalk signature that is part of the post.

I run heated Quadratec LED headlights. They're great all around.

If you think one Harbor Freight jack stand was bad, hold my beer...

Not around here. Rubicon axles carry a premium but non-rubicon axles aren't worth much, especially with no lockers.

I wouldn't give more than $500 for a set of built up non-Rubicon JK axles. If they were from a Rubicon, they might be worth a little bit more but not much. For completely stock axles, I wouldn't give more than $200 (junkyard prices)

Yep. We're getting a bit of snow today.

The garage had a few fluorescent fixtures in it but they weren't enough. 16 cheap Chinese LED fixtures are up and now I can see.

Exactly