derf

The WJ 4.7 is probably the worst V8 you could choose. It's big (hard to fit), it doesn't make much power, the transmission behind it is not stellar, and there's basically zero aftermarket supporting them. The rear axle is aluminum (i.e. weak) and I believe the Dana 30 is low pinion. Basically, you're only throwing away money doing this swap. You get more power and reliability out of a stroker 4.0/4.6. If you're set on a V8 swap, go chevy small block or LS, a Magnum 5.2/5.9, or small block Ford 5.0.

LED Stuck on an island with unattractive good conversationalist or attractive airhead?

Both are clueless but only one might know it so I'll go with clueless. In-N-Out or Whataburger?

I think that other tool may leave marks as well. If you care that much you could always use a strap wrench or rubber covers on the jaws of the wrench.

I have all emails turned off so it's working fine for me. But that probably isn't very helpful to you.

Protip: When assembling your replacement steering parts, lube the threads with anti-seize.

Same here. But a dedicated tool would be nice to have.

A $3,00 truck would be running, driving, stopping. All the lights would work. No serious rust. Basically, it would have to pass a general safety inspection (in a state that has inspections). Body panels would have to be straight. Paint would be in decent shape, as would the interior. Some minor surface rust on a few things would be acceptable but no major cancer or any signs of potential cancer. I'd have higher standards for a 4x2 truck. Better condition, lower miles, something to make up around $1,000 over a 4x4.

It almost sounds like you're going out of your way to talk yourself into believing the truck is worth it. I still say it's a $500 truck at best. But if you are convinced you want to buy it, go ahead.

Honestly, that truck is a "no go" for me if you're looking at trying to drive in short order. Mice. Who knows what's they've gotten into and/or left behind. Not Running. Sure, if they pour gas down the throttle body it will run for a bit but you're probably looking at a lot of parts (pump, lines, injectors, wiring, maybe even tank) to get it going General state of the truck. The mirrors are gone, the tailgate is gone. Who knows what else is missing/broken. Rust. Everyone says "no rust I can see" but no one actually looks for rust. It's probably got a fair bit of hidden rust that you won't find for a while. If you were looking at buying it and building it up as a project, it might be worth $2-500. That's assuming there's not too much hidden rust. This truck is going to require a ton of work. It's possible you could luck out but it's not worth a gamble without some further information and better pictures. Sure, I bought an MJ that was a total basket case. But my intention was always to gut the thing down to the body and replace basically everything anyway. So I'm not throwing away anything "good" that's broken or missing. But my intent was never to make it into a daily driver either. Best piece of advice I was ever given when looking at buying a vehicle: Don't look at the truck you want it to be, look at the truck it is right now.

I've done Hell's Revenge several times so I'll pick Rubicon Trail (bucket list trail for me). Big party with lots of people or small gathering with a few friends?

Taco Ribs or steak?

We named our scrum team "Kelly's Heroes". Enterprise Ketchup or mustard?

Robbers CB, ham, or GMRS?

Did you replace the filter? With bad gas, there may be junk in there. I don't remember if you can do that without having to drop the tank. Also, the pressure regulator is back there somewhere and it may be partially clogged. If that doesn't do it, then you can drop the tank and replace the pump.

Pump Did Han shoot first or did Greedo?

Diesel. Forced induction or naturally aspirated

So you're the other GLG20s.... Spies like us for sure French fries or onion rings?

Dangerously Coke or Pepsi?

And for the record, the Waggy 44 in the front uses Chevy style knuckles, spindles, and hubs. You can swap in Ford 5 on 5.5" knuckles/spindles/hubs easily enough. But there's no way to go to a smaller bolt pattern as no one makes a replacement hub assembly similar to an XJ's unit bearing.

The rear D44 or AMC 20 is a good match. Both are a bit narrower so some 1-1.25" spacers make it look more even. I had a set of 44's from a 1988 Grand Wagoneer under my XJ for a while but took them out. I'll dig around and see if I can find pictures. I know I have some. Somewhere...

Cards against humanity. Lemmy or God?

Aw hell no. Mudding or rock crawling?

YJ Tastes great or less filling?

AR Stick or auto?