Warren Mohler

clockwise is panel dimer

Virginia the lamp will have power 24/7 365 even with key off pink is ALWAYS hot when it comes on you are switching ground, one of the two remaining wires is always ground the third wire is always switched ground from either door switch or headlamp switch regardless of how the lens is positioned it will always be in an on position, when lens is flat it will work from door or headlamp switch when tilted up or down it is grounded from constant ground and always on. this is sort of dumb because an off position would be nice if doors were open for long periods of time

turn switch clockwise, turning counter clockwise till it clicks will turn on interior lamps

look at your lamp closely terminal for red should go to one end of lamp yellow and black should go to terminals that have a diode dohicky between them if that s all ok switch yellow and black and see what happens, remember to do this with doors closed and headlamp switch in dim position

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I have been looking for one of these for quite some time, never knew what held handle up against back of truck, let me know what you want for it

if you haven't done your headliner yet consider using later model XJ visors as they are plastic and of a clam shell design, meaning they snap together on the side opposite the rod, and are very easy to recover, I did mine in my 99 XJ and covered them with grey material from a sweatshirt, looked great. So when I did my MJ I glassed over center mount hole and cut new holes in headliner for new inboard mount clips then covered the newer type visors with matching headliner material . You will need to add some metal to inside of roof at inboard clips to get them to sit level, I used scrap aluminum about 1/4 inch and JB weld to attach, then screw clips to that through headliner. Five bucks for used visors at JY. lots cheaper than paying to redo the cardboard ones.

if you made an adapter or drilled intake maybe, adapted the link rod, my question is why would you want to?

top to bottom 1 3/4 top 2 wide bottom1 1/2 wide- sorry that's P brake

red to A, yellow to B, black to C

if glass is in channels front and rear you might try spraying silicon into channels first give it a generous shot so it will run down the length of channel this might help a lot. if it doesn't door panel will have to come off.

gotta find it first. On a dry day put garden hose in wiper well and fill an inch or so and see if it comes in, leaks can be a b...h

don't drill holes

are both sides in the channel?

red on A, yellow B, black C

how about posting some pics of what you have, maintaining one of these trucks can be a challenge due to limited availability but there are many people following this forum that are good at getting a second life out of a rusted mess

there should be a hard plastic line that routes under/behind washer bottle and behind vac. booster and hooks to charcoal canister at carb/bowl fitting

I would look at Rock Auto, a WHOLE LOT CHEAPER for both items

nice looking truck, looks even better considering the price, should be a great project. Hope interior looks as good as the outside

if it's in the morning and possible dampness involved inspect cap and rotor, if all looks good spray some water around cap and wires with engine running to see if there is any spark jumping

take a look at an AMC 258 I believe they had larger gromets

4 door Cherokee fronts pre 96 will work, I will say from experience manual regulators are easy to fix

work on boats for a while and you will see the difference antifreeze makes even fresh water inboard engines rot away from the inside, salt water engines 100x as bad. Iron block Mercruiser engines that have been in service for a while, say 350's when you pull cyl. heads the threaded holes in block will not be reuseable do to corrosion they just get too thin and won't stand up to retorque of bolts and can't be helicoiled

looks great