Warren Mohler

you can change, Mopar does have red and I believe most red is compatible with green now but it costs more and corrosion protection was questionable in the past

get them on Ebay $9.95 a piece from some limo company, best price I found for the lights and they are nice

NO! this is for boats and RV's it is meant for freeze protection ONLY, GM used red for some time but most people change to green that product was not what you have pictured.

I have one for HO, it has four vertical mounting holes and serp. pulley with smooth bearing, says China on it but looks like a quality part if anyone is interested

the oil pressure sender has a sealed connector when the sender starts leaking oil past the terminals it has nowhere to go but to migrate up the wires inside the insulation, it will travel the whole way to the ECU which also has a sealed connection and accumulates till it causes a problem, my 99 XJ shut off one day on a steep hill with no pull off, I did a visual inspection and saw nothing wrong so did a wiggle of plugs starting at ECU, it fired right up with CEL on it had three odd codes set that were not even listed on charts all to do with communication with trans controller so once I was home the first place I went to was ECU, center plug was FULL of motor oil. I cleaned with brake clean and blew dry and had no problem after, about a month later rechecked and there was a small amount of oil there, so even after replacing sender it still took a while for oil to stop seeping from plug, since then I have seen this same thing happen to two other XJ's, so now every time I see something odd this is the first place I go to save lots of diagnostic time. I am sure it has happened to others as well.

is Z&M Jeeps still selling them? Zack@zmjeeps.com

fix your fuse block or wire around with in line fuses first then see what you have, probably have several bad places in fuse block

before you get too far into this inspect center connector of ECU to see if full of motor oil I have seen this in three XJ's, if its full of oil clean with brake clean and blow dry and replace oil sender recheck ECU connector after several weeks for oil, it will take a while for oil to stop seeping from plug

if fuse terminals are ok check flasher it should have b+ at key on one side, if all that is ok check c156 on side of steering column I have seen these slightly pulled apart.

or wrap it in sheet metal so you wipe clean

good idea making that double at the front

they are not cast, not stainless, not sure what grade of steel, I have welded many with standard mig welder, they usually crack at same place close to collector. You must remove from truck to weld

trans cooler is in the radiator tank right side in this pic

be a lot cheaper to weld it

A lot of people have done this with good results the way it sounds, I thought about it myself. after looking at many XJ's that were done at the factory after a few years old gaps as large as 1/4 inch between rubber and "A" pillar happened, saw this a lot at the dealership and it just did not look good. With a little patience I was able to smooth out my stainless and repaint. Looks great

Glad to hear that

not if the truck side is wired properly, boat trailer wiring is pretty simple many times people will use regular trailer or automotive lamps on a boat trailer this is a no no. marine lamps are either water proof or designed to drain as soon as trailer is pulled from water either way you should always unplug trailer and allow bulbs to cool before backing in. the only thing to stay powered would be brake lock out solenoid if you have hydraulic surge brakes on trailer

chances are this problem started long before you installed the "by pass" harness, the switch is designed to handle the load of the lamps, the wires are sized to handle it as well, I believe when you do tear into it you will find damage to be only switch and plug. Damage will likely be to one terminal far greater than others around it. A short on headlamp circuit should have the internal breaker to open and close causing lamps to go off and on and continue to do that while lamps are on. a short on park lamp circuit should have caused blown fuse. look around real good while replacing switch and plug. which I would recommend sounds like it got REALLY HOT. if no damage is found in harness just inches away that is all that should be needed and problem was in connection, keep us posted with what you find

were your headlamps coming on and off while this was occurring, is there any melted wires anywhere else any damage anywhere but the plug and switch?

its been a while, you are right oxygen in exhaust, my bad

I haven't looked at a screen like this in a long time, question BAR is reading 15.1 that's barometric pressure I believe should that not be around 30 or am I just feeling light

o2 sensor just gives a reading of exhaust gas, lean/rich is ecu trying to maintain 14.7to1 ratio which can never be obtained hence lean/rich

Renault cooling systems!!!! horrible bleed screws, high pumps, stats in the hose, blown head gskts. cyl. liners that would pull lose if you lifted the head off glad I wasn't flat rate then

it was a leftover in 88 she got it basically at cost, black with black interior, we took it easy on it for a week before I decided to flog it, fell on its face big time ran great till you went WOT then crap after farting with it for several days, hooked up fuel pressure gauge to see it had 60 psi turned it down to spec then it became fun. good days

if your pieces are in good shape consider painting them SEM santa fe #15123 is a perfect match for the real light tan or sand, the hard parts A pillars, rear side and back just require good cleaning first, sill and kick pieces are a softer plastic and require adhesion promoter, the stuff works great the most forgiving spray bomb I ever used seems like you can't make it run, follow instructions