Warren Mohler

Just trying to help, love this forum lots of good people that like their trucks as much as I do this repair should go far in helping your solve problem

no need to drop lower dash Velcro patch is directly below steering column should be able to reach up and pull down into view if it is not there you should find two flat plugs hooked together. Any year wiper module from XJ should work. Pete M is correct you should have 2 spd. wipers without module and yellow box is cruise module

I have had 3 loaded tool chests and all my shop equipment in mine quite the load but you can't hear yourself think, both parking brake cables contact wheel weights with more than about 500lbs makes an ungodly noise. has anyone else had this problem?

this appears to be aftermarket AC Jeep used a block style expansion valve. Nothing the matter with that if installed properly, I have done many. Anyway I assume that AC does work since you said you were repairing Freon leaks. Looking at pics wiring is a mess what I don't see is any evidence of heat at plugs to ac controls no discolored wires with that said I would be taking a close look at that fuse block-terminals. I have seen melted fuses many times and the problem was always right at the fuse

D is 12 volt input A goes to AC low pressure switch

eaglescout is correct if it had CEL it would illuminate at key on then go off Renix systems do not store codes if I remember correctly they would display codes but only if fault occurred with proper scan tool hooked up. for EGR deletion you will not see much difference in performance EGR adds a small amount of inert gas to help cool upper cyl. temperatures with it unhooked you may experience detonation or ping. hot air tube is there to aid in cold engine drivability. If working properly these can be a benefit

not knowing what aftermarket lamps say fog, driving, etc. or how trailer is wired it is hard to say I doubt it has anything to do with tilt wheel issue since dimmer is mounted below all that but that should be repaired!!! have fun I have done many it is very time consuming having to disassemble entire upper column. as far as lamps on and off keep in mind the headlamp switch has a circuit breaker internal to switch that self resets when it cools off nothing else can be on this circuit high or low beam these circuits can be used to switch relays that power fog and driving lamps but lamps must get power from battery and not headlamp switch

most times when a fuse melts not blown but plastic is melted the problem is at that connection in the fuse block what I am saying is the fuse is loose in its connection causing high resistance I have two in my block that did same thing, dome and turn signal fuses, had to do some creative wiring to work around problem I would like to replace all fuse block terminals but don't think my back is up for all of that at the moment

Heard that. I just installed ACC vinyl floor two weeks ago took better part of a day is just barely molded, I followed video on their website starting in rear of cab and working forward after getting it under heater box had a huge bulge on left side of trans hump next to gas pedal that trapped right foot between hump and brake plus looked like crap! ended up folding it over on itself and running a course sheet metal screw through the folded over piece to hold down its behind gas so you can't see it the end job doesn't look bad till you tilt bench seat back forward its bad behind there. will deal with that at later date. IF I was to do it again I would start at front and work rearward not cutting anything till it was close to being in place

pull hose off regulator and plug then run engine should not hurt anything, or if you have a mighty vac with brake bleeding reservoir hook that to reg. and pull vac. to see if you get any gas or if will even hold vac. mine had good fuel pressure running and ran fine just hard to start hot till I went WOT then would start and run rough for just a second. when I ran with hose off gas slowly dripped from nipple after replacing reg. I cut it open and could not see anything wrong just know there should be no fuel on that side

don't get lost in resistance charts and all that stuff I have been working on renix systems ever since they hit the market this is about the most basic fuel injection out there heating up sensors and taking ohm readings is fun to do but very seldom solves a problem fly by the seat of your pants. like Cruiser says check everything all electrical connections and hoses bumper to bumper to get an overall big picture of conditions before getting scan tools and multimeters out. Rock Auto had the cheapest regulator I could find its a little tricky getting both nuts and lock washers back on with fuel rail on I tossed washers and used locktite anyways I hope this fixes your problem. Lets keep them running.

Hey only takes a second to pull the hose off and check for fuel mine had good psi running never checked to see how long it held just know what fixed problem

There are two MJ's for sale on Craigs List by one seller 1988 4.0 and one 2.5 that he claims to be rust free but 2WD he is close to Hagerstown, Md. I contacted him about 4.0L asking 2500.00

I had similar problem last spring started fine cold hot engine cranked for a long time then started when I would go wide open throttle I found fuel pressure regulator leaking gas into vac. hose causing flood condition $33.00 for regulator from Rock Auto fixed it right up. Good luck

this still sounds like min. air flow problem I believe this to be renix system still in1990 correct me if I'm wrong if you have access to iac tester run it to base idle and see what idle rpm is I just did mine and idle rpm was slightly over 450 too low I adjusted bleed screw to get 700 now I no longer get low rpm at times. mine is 5spd. if no iac tester is available you should be able to do same thing by blocking odd shaped hole on top of throttle body to block air to iac this should give min. idle rpm unblock and idle speed should go very high momentarily proving iac is working block again access bleed screw it is covered by thin tin cover on drivers side of t body if tin cover is still in place remove screw and clean before making adjustment tin cover is easily removed with ice pick you stated yours is aw4 so idle rpm should be at least 750 to 850 in gear be carefull doing this have friend apply brake, chock tires if this rpm can not be obtained with bleed screw get it as high as you can without screw falling out finish be adjusting idle stop screw then readjust tps. I have seen on occasion that torque converter was not unlocking when it should causing stall but this was with GM products mostly. good luck keep us posted

have you tried cleaning throttle body and idle air valve?

I know this is a six year old topic, but after reading I just had to reply before swapping out parts you should always wiggle test unplug connectors check for corrosion. My buddies 88 xj sat in the driveway for five days with a no start condition he was ready to have towed to a shop I just happened to pay a visit that day checked no spark or fuel I unplugged CPS hooked it back up and it fired right up he drove it for two more years before selling with no further repairs. At Jeep training school years ago George Corsones one of the teachers there explained that sealed connectors carrying small voltages can be prone to ozone build up eventually causing open circuit many times just unplug and replug will fix

I have same problem with loose connections in fuse block where do I purchase those new terminals and do they lock into factory block?

my MJ was leaking at same place I thought it was the body seam I sealed it but water kept showing up running down visible in that oval hole in pic quite a bit too I finally decided it had to be at rear slider seal I cut out the slider and sure as s--t slider had corroded along the entire bottom and was loose from the urethane sealant with the window out it was easy to see where water was coming in there was a 1/4 inch gap at the top of the seam where the back and corner of the cab overlap I filled that gap with JB weld sanded and painted the slider replaced the fuzzy channel liner and made upper and lower slider seals on outside and reinstalled slider had a huge storm today no leak removing slider was a piece of cake took about 15 min after removing the rubber trim I tried using the wire method shown elsewhere in forum very hard to do I used single edge razor blade worked great had plenty of room to get it in between slider frame and cab if I knew how to post pics I would hope this may have been some help with your leak

does any one know what fuel pressure should be, 89 Comanche 4.0L renix I have 39 psi at key on 29 at idle and about 37psi when revved I don't seem to have throttle response I had 20 years ago, still runs well and great mileage just not as snappy has 5 spd trans

I took the cable out of a used power regulator from my 99 xj and just bolted it to my manual reg. works fine was about six inches longer just cut off

I to have a light tan or beige interior in my 89 mj pioneer does any one know what SEM or Colorbond interior paint would be a match I called Colorbond and they said they have no way of telling me which to buy my dash is the only realy bad piece but I would repaint entire interior if I have to my bench seat is similar to the one on Raybuck website so I plan on ordering that style and color soon I don't want to end up with to many different shades of tan any input of color numbers would be great

I to am interested in replacing my Peugeot clamshell tranny as I know they are problematic I was considering AX15 does any one know if clutch kit will bolt to my existing flywheel is input shaft spline the same? will I need new drive shafts? what would be needed for this swap?

cruiser54 has very good info available to you and you should follow his advice I have looked at his links and this really takes me back in the late 80's jeep had many complaints of high idle with warm engine but was almost always about 3000 rpm as I remember TSB said it was do to bad ground through TPS and I replaced many of them for this problem I am not sure what output voltage should be at idle when replacing TPS as I always used MS1700 to adjust other vehicles I have worked on have been about .5 volts good luck and don't fire that cannon.