75sv1

There are a few stock length push rods. Then there's 4.0L vs the 258 push rods(longer). I am running up to this, with my mini-stroker. I am using 9.623 right now. I might go down to 9.594s. I am using HS roller rockers. I do have a reground cam. Base circle about .080 under stock. Also, there are two different lengths of stock push rods. 9.640 and 9.650. I would say you are correct, that the head deck has some material taken off. Probably part of what I am dealing with.

I'd question the length of the push rods. Also, stock rocker arms or roller rockers?

I'm going to lean towards No. I would think you could make a bullet spacer to work to keep the cam in postion. Did you try Crower? Hydraulic Flat Tappet - 199, 232, 234 & 258 - AMC - Camshafts (crower.com)

Just viewed a Post from Russ Potengier on the Stroker board. He replied to a question I had on spring pressures on the springs he supplies. 100 Lbs at closing. Should be good for .500 lift.

I also think that it is 99+ blocks that have the cam thrust plate. I did put in an older style Comp Cam in a 2000 Block. They do make a spring for the tension. Also, Bishop Buel also make a Delrin 'spacer'. Its shaped like a bullet. Also, there are other options for 99+ Cams. Cleggs has a Stage 1 and is working on a Stage 1.5 or 2. I had Schnieders grind me one from a used core. Depends on what lift your cam choice has. From what I could find, it seems like stock then jump to 110 lbs at closed. I think 110 lbs is a bit much. I'd look at Melling stock springs for a 95 HO. 81-89 lbs at closed. As for 'break in' oil. I used Lucas 30 SAE. It has 1600 ppm Zinc. I'd use it for the first 2000 miles. I am not sure about using a diesel oil at that point. And I'd wait till 5,000 to 10,000 till I use a synthetic. At 10,000 miles I'll be using Rotella T6 Synthetic. Probably the 5W-45. They do make a T6 in 10W-30 now. I have used the 10W-30 T4 in 4.0ls and my MB 240D. Another aspect is to watch what lifters you use. I'd try and find some Johnson lifters, or at least USA made ones. I've had to scour E-Bay for Johnson Lifters. If you look at the end that contacts the cam lobe, if it looks splotish then its not good. Some SBI made in Mexico looks splotish. And yes I do measure similar type parts. Some of the cam makers sell a premium lifters. I'd at least get them. I'd also, prime the engine oil. I ground the helix gear off of an old distributor. Then used a drill. Had to rotate the engine to get all the lifters to pump up.

Not sure on having to change the Fuel system. Boostwerks does have a kit to adapt a return system to a late style 4.0L. I am confused about the choice of a flywheel. RENIX flywheel if converting to a HO or Late HO. ?? Or just swapping in a 97 4.0L and keeping the RENIX?

I use the green grease for stuff. I think it has some 'corn' grease in it. I used 'corn' grease for an old John Deere mower rear axle. It is what JD specs or sold. Corn grease is suppose to fold itself back into the gears. I also use the Werth spray for some hinges and other stuff. It is a dry film lubricant.

OK, found some info on the Net. Not sure if it is my issue or not. Still, worth a try. Also, there was a Cam change in the 96-01 or even up. As to lift. A bit less than the HOs, and Renix. But a split lift as a bit more lift on the exhuast. the 99+ also has a thrust plate to locate the camshaft. In the past few years, there are performance cams for the 99+.

Gojira94 'The 96-01 have common ECM-based alternator voltage regulation failures, though they can be overcome with installation of an external Mopar voltage regulator and a diode for the ECM.' Any info on this. Having issues with my 2000 XJ misfiring. I did have the ECM checked out. I think other issues at play. Light to the Air Bags is on. I've hear it shared the same power supply as the TBS.

I started down this/that path. I really doubt its worth it. I am more looking at a 2000-2001 setup. Yet, that has its issues. Having those issues with a 2000 XJ. Starting to look at a FAST or other aftermarket solution. Also, bored TB should help the power. I thought my '88 MJ had more power than any of my '98's and '00 XJ. But manual vs Auto, and I might have had a 3.55 D35 rear with 225 tires.

I doubt a new oil pump will fix 'Blow-By'. I've dealt with it on my '88 MJ. I think your VC seal is leaking. I'd also upgrade the VC to a 93-95 XJ valve cover. Also, to the 96-2001 rear CCV tube and fitting at the Intake manifold. Also, possibly a quick fix, it to put a breather element on the front fitting of the VC. Where the tube goes over to the Air Filter box. That's removing the tube to the air filter box. So, oil won't be sucked into the air filter box. No, I haven't done that one yet. Also, I think the later pressed metal VCs are better at the oil control. If it cheers you up, I am dealing with this on a 2010 Chevy Avalanche. Chevy redesigned their VC 3 times. I pulled the engine as one of the AFM lifters collapsed a couple of months back. I was heading on vacation. When I pulled the intake, there was oil in the intake. probably 1/4 of a quart. Anyways, waiting for the block to be done. On a cheerful side, I think I fixed my miss issue with my '00 XJ. I put to long of pushrods in. Sorry, don't mean to Hi-Jack your thread.

I'd add shocks to what Pete said. Or you can put a 4.5" lift on it, and the oil pan drops right out.

I have someone installing the Front and Rear kit on a 2001 XJ, if pictures would help. It might be a few days.

I'd replace the water pump, too.

I did look at rebuilt 4.0L prices. Somewhere around $2,000 to $2,600.

1): Does that cost pass the sniff tests ? I'd say yes. Probably $3,500 for a rebuilt engine, and $1500-$200 for labor. 2): Any other maintenance work that would be smart to loop into this? I don't have A/C, would it save money / be smart to get an A/C while doing this? A/C can wait. I'd think about a front seal for an auto trans. Possibly a Torque converter. C) In the worst case, if I can't get it repaired, what is a decent condition MJ with no engine (in Philly PA) worth to others? $1,000? $3,000 ? Nothing? $$$ would depend on body condition. Rust Free, I'd say $2,000. Also would depend on the quality of the paint. Still, your looking for a buyer that sees spending money up front. So, 10% of the buyers. I've also driven a Jeep XJ that 'overheated'. Ran fine afterwards. This depends on what amount of work you are capable of. I'd ask about milage, but some or a lot depends on how the engine was cared for. Doesn't sound good if the radiator fluid wasn't changed at intervals. Still, worth a shot. You are going to have to change the radiator and coolant anyways. Also, change to an open radiator system. Then see about a head gasket.

I like to do the longest first. The rear passenger. Then the rear driver. then the front passenger, then the front driver. I do not save the brake fluid.

Well, I've had a different experience recently. I bought a MC for my 2010 Chevy Avalanche off of E-Bay. A Raybestos. I did bench bleed it. I had the ports capped, filled with fluid, then pumped the piston. Installed it. I used a brake bleeder unit I always use. Not good. My neighbor used an AUTEL scanner to active the ABS. Still, not good. Try, try, cry, cry. Well, Neighbor got me a unit from O'Rielly's, where he works. I read the instructs, bought a brake bleeding kit. I had one somewhere, but scattered to the 4 corners of the garage. So, as per directions. Do not install the plugs. Fill the reservoir. Let the fluid dribble or flow out the ports. Then cap the ports. This lubes the oring seals. I used the plugs that have the barbs for a flex tube. Routed the tubes to the reservoir. Pushed on the piston, till no air bubbles. I installed the MC. bleed it with my cheap $10 plastic brake bleeder. Brakes work OK.

The 2003 Head is a bit restrictive in the exhaust ports. I plan to try my hand at a TUPY head. I've done 3 Jeep heads. A '95 and two '99's. From other sources, porting a head can add 15hp to 20 hp. Also, the valve spring might or should be upgraded. The 'max' lift on stock springs is .450. I also, used a 30 degree seat on the intake. I went with 37 degree intake on an LS head. You have to watch the diameter of the exhaust valve. Max is 1.57. Newcomer does use 1.6 valves though. Also, the HO valve springs have a bit higher spring pressure. I used Melling.

I have bored my own TBs. From other post Leighs does good work on them. The TB pictured above is RENIX. RENIX TBs can be bored to 58mm(straight through) and sometimes to 60mm. HO TBs can be bored to 60mm (straight through) and to 62 mm. I have noticed a bit better performance on inclines with a 60mm TB on a stock motor, with a 2.5 cat back and a header. Also, with the 99+ intake. Not a bunch, but enough where I am not down shifting.

They seem to go cheap. Some really like them. A former neighbor wheeled his. He said the 4.7 isn't a bad motor, just have to keep on top of it and fix the minor issues. Another neighbor's fishing buddy was working on one last few weeks. Unfortunately, the engine was a bit bad. Finding a good used motor might be hard. Doesn't want to put any more money into it. So, probably junkyard bound. Still, yours looks in good shape.

I used a large say 2ft x 3ft pan under my Avalanche the last time. Had an issue with the NAPA Gold filter seal. Yeah, 4-5 quarts of oil on my driveway. NAPA filter with the red o-ring have a bad reputation.

I started doing this swap. The motor mounts are one of the motor mount plates on each side. One is in about .900, the other out the same. I put on a '95 head and a 99+ intake. Also, mine is a manual trans. I was or am going to rewire to. Might check Cruise54 tips. He did a few RENIX to HO swaps. Its mainly the TPS that needs rewired. I was looking at keeping the WJ serpentine belt setup, with electrical fans. The '95 head does not have the one idler pulley threads on it. I might have found some setup that would work. Yet, I built a stroker from a 2000 block. Thinking of a FAST engine controller steup.

Much of the Euro stuff is good to excellent. I use to sneer at stuff other than US machines. That's a mistake. We had Sajos at work and a Cincy Horizontals. Sajos held up to the Cincys.

Your mill looks a bit stouter than a Bridgeport. I have one of the earlier SuperMax. I removed the Anilam CNC controller and made it manual. I did put on an older Anilam Digital. Having ball lead screws is nice on a manual mill. I have a few other CNC mills. Defiants. Also, a few Dyna-myte CNC lathes. Someday I'll get them running. Need to get the Monarch 10EE running again. I think the VFD took a hit. I like that you have a horizontal mill. Some stuff just runs easier on them. Also, better for hogging off metal.