75sv1

I use a Mach3 blade. I do have fairly sensitive skin. I don't have a thick beard. my chin hair is fairly wirery though. I have used a few electric razors. They were cheaper ones. One was a Braun, but a lower end model. As others have said, they don't get as close of a shave. I have heard a few good coments about the Panasonic wet/dry. I haven't used it though. I now shave in the shower. This seems to help quite a bit, to get a good shave. I also use a natural shaving cream. I use 'Kiss My Face' brand. It comes in a pump bottle. I wash my face in the shower, then lather and then shave. Tom

'It's gonna be extremely difficult to sell a car in January if you don't start working on it in December. Many vehicles, especially new models, are introduced as the next year model. I had a 1964 1/2 Mustang, and a 1968 240Z if you go by the date of manufacture' From what I've read, the Mustang was introduced in Mid year. So, 64-1/2 is correct on a Mustang. I did have a '96 Contour made in late '95. I remeber the TB gasket didn't match what the auto parts stores sold. I had to go to the dealer. I think Ford released the car in '94 in Europe. Then '95 in the US. Those had some differences in wiring and emmisions items. Tom

As for transfer case, there are differences in the spline count. 21 and 23, I think. I think yours is 21. I remeber that 87-88 used the 21 count. I think some of the later 4 cyl. used a 21 count spline. I can't remeber how the fuel line came off. Sorry. Now as for oil going into the filter. Search for the topic 'Blow-By'. Its not really blow-by but its what Jeep 4.0Lers refer to this condition by. I have gone through this myself. I was useing about 1-1.5 qt per week. It was probably 250 miles per week. I did the usual of new CCV lines etc. It helped for a while. My solution was to up grade to a 'nwer' valve cover. I used a 91-95 valve cover. The 90 degree elbows are suppose to handle the oil better. The later pressed steel ones are suppose to be better than that. I have recently bought a late '95 valve cover. It has the 'grommet' style CCV fitting like the latter pressed steel ones. I also did a big hose late style CCV hose mode like seen on MADXJ site. I had to cut and splice the hose to fit the Renix intake. Its a bit longer. I think most of the problem is caused by the valve cover gasket not sealing well. I tried a few cork gaskets. The worked for a while then lost their compression. I would probably try a FelPro rubber/cork gasket. I would put some gasket seal on the gasket to valve cover surfaces, to bond it to the valve cover. I also was on a thread on Jeep.com board. One poster said there was an 'unofficial' factory mod. You cut the oil towers inside the valve cover 2 inches shorter. Then drill a 1/2 hole on each of the two towers, another 2 inches up and on the rear side (or rear side of engine). I think Pete posted a link to a CC post on the same subject in the Jeep.com post. Tom

You might let us know what year Comacnhe you have. I'd look at GreatLakes XJ for a FSM for your year in a Cherokee. Or buy a FSM for yours. Two things, check that power is getting to the coil. Then check the coil itself. They do go bad. Tom

Well, I was on vacation last week. Just before that, I got the Cherokee running. I put in a MSD ignition coil. I went to PA and DC. DC for a cousins wedding. Then to PA. I finally caught a trout on the LeTort. It was onyl 6 incher, but a trout. I also went to Harry Pull-a-Part in Hazelton PA. I hadn't been there in about 8 years. I was searching for Comanche Bucket seats. There were two Comacnhes there. I pull a set of tail lights and the rear interior panel. Someone had beaten me to the bucket seats on the one. I did get a late '95 valve cover. There were two others and another with the clunker orange paint on it. These have the late styel CCV groments. They also have the older style tower shields. I'll try and post some pictures later of the different styles of valve covers. I have a 91-early 95 and a later stamped steel one. Tom

Might check the distributor pickup sensor. Tom

Well, I worked on the Cherokee a bit more. I left the NSS alone. I just jumper wired it. The signal to the ECM comes from a relay in the PDC(fuse box). I did get a Lisle spark plug wire checker. I jumped the battery from my MB 240D. I am getting spark from the coil, but not to the plugs. I changed the cap and rotor. I bought Echlin brand from NAPA. It had the brass inserts. THe cap was about $10, but the rotor was $12. Still, fairly good price. Still, no luck. So, I changed the plugs with some I had laying around, Bosch Platimuns from the '95 motor. Also, I put on the Moroso Blue wires I had. I don't know if the Moroso wires are to thich or what. I didn't get a spark reading with the Lisle. I changed the coil wire back to the red Mopar one. Still, not running. I think the ignition coil pickup is bad. I haven't had time to check it. I did start to pull the interior out of the Comanche. I never put back in the carpet from years ago. I was and still am getting water in there. Anyways, I pulled both wire harnesses, Bench seat, dash, OK the complete interior. I did get a '98 MT ECM for $60 and a '98 MT wiring harness for $100, both prices are shipped. There is a bit more rust in the floor boards than I thought there would be. I think I'll try to just patch it up. The passanger side is OK, and just needs spots of rust taken care of. The dirves side has a few holes towards the rear. The front of it looks bad, but no holes. I'll probably pull the stiffening doubler plates, and then go from there. Tom

Wayne, Here's the pictures: Tom

Sorry, I didn't get this till Monday morning. I did get most of the wiring pulled. I'll call sometime today. Tom

Might state weather you have a bench seat or bucket seats. I do have a bench seat in burgandy. Tom

Mine is Non-AC too. I'll have to pull the harness and check to make sure it is in good condition. Everything worked about 5 years ago. I had tranny problems and decided to swap out trans, then wiring and fianally doing a '98 Cherokee swap. I am thinking $70 shipped. I will be in DC on the 22nd. I am thinking $50 for the harness, and $20 shipping. Tom

A/C or no A/C? Also would an '88 wiring harness work? Are you needing both engine wiring harnes and dash? Tom

I went over the FSM. It looks like the jumping of the NSS should work. I think the ECM recieves a 5V input from one of the relays or such from the starter or starter selonoid. I did buy a Lisle spark plug wire tester at Sears, $12 and US made. It didn't show any spark from the distributor or coil. I need to check the coil and wires to the coil for voltage. I might buy a code reader, a cheap one. I did buy a 98 Manual ECM and a '98 MT engine wiring harness. About $60 shipped on the ECM and $100 shipped on whe wiring. Both good deals. I still want to get the XJ running before I part it out. I will probably put the '95 wiring harnesses and EMC I have in the classified this week. Tom

IronMan does make an adjustable shackle for the XJ. I think he will do custom lengths. Tom

Just a few comments, the thermostat housing spacer is for the use of a valve cover spacer, that is needed if you use MOPAR roller rockers. See a "Comanche Named Sue". I think there was a write up on Cherokee America on this type of radiator swap, also I think MADXJ. There was a link on the CA site to someone who wired up the tempswitch for the fan and stuff. If you don't find it, I might have a hard copy of it. I'd have to search though. I have heard the late model '97+ radiators have a better heat tranfer than the earlier radiators. I don't know that for a fact though. I did buy a 3 row DSG raditor myself. I do like the Mr. Gasket/Robert Shaw Hi-Flow thermostats. I would caution the use of the 180 F thermostats in cold weather. It might not let your temps get hot enough. I think they and the 160 F were mainly for the early Fuel Injected cars and drag racing. For a run or two, the computer would notice a cooler motor and dump in more fuel. A bit better ET time. In cold weather your oil might not warm up enough to cook of the water. Not good for dino oil. Now for the closed-loop radiator system. Even though I am converting to an open system on my Comanche, my Ford Contour uses a closed system. I lot of newer cars do. Also, older Mercedes Benzs had it back in the early 80's. I hope/plan to convert my 240d to a closed loop system like the 300D's or 300TD's. Good write up though. Tom

Might look at the MadXJ site for some brake swaps: http://www.madxj.com/ Tom

Also, the NV3550 is swapable. I think on the AX-15 you will need the trans cross mount from a latter MJ or XJ with the AX-15. Tom

Is that just the block, or is it a 'Short block", ie pistons, crank etc. I wouldn't mess with just the block. Tom

I think your was a Renix. I did a search on Car-Part.com It looked like $350 for an engine. The HOs were about the same. You also might do a search for axles on it. 4:10 axles usually cost a bunch though. Tom

I'd at least pull the head and pan. See what damage has been done if any. Then I'd do the routine as described about and pour PB Rustbaster, transmission oil or something else. I'd look for over heated bearings, broked camshaft, broken piston, piston rings etc. You might get lucky. As others have said, these motors aren't bringing a hole lot of late. That depends on the year needed and milage of course. Tom

There are basically the same upgrades as the latter XJs. You might have to look a bit. Headers are available. Also, you can have your Renix Throttle body bored out. There was a guy in FL that did this. I did see him selling bored out TBs for latter ones recently. Upgraded wires. I think I used a Moroso Blue Max universall kit. I didn't find an upgrade for the coil though. I'd also say Ford 5.0L injectors. It would also depend on what year MY you have, ie Renix or HO. Tom

ya i know how to i was just trying to see, 24 gallons is correct. i thought i saw someone got like 600 on a tank, it musta been a four banger....and mines everything you say except a high output, thats the white one. :thumbsup: thanks for being a normal person and helping me out too :thumbsup: his method is wrong. you need to divide by the gallons the fill up takes. and it must be a full fill up...not half full, not 3/4 full, 100% full tank. if you usually top off, you must do that every tank you try to figure out your mileage on...only way to be accurate. 4.0/auto with highway driving should net you around 19-21mpg easily if it's running right. I've gotten 24mpg. you also can't base how good your mileage is by how many miles you went...asking "is 335 miles on my tank good" is pointless....it will differ between comanches depending on what gas tank size you had...there was no single "standard" gas tank size on a comanche. there were several, and the options of which one you have also vary between longbed and shortbed. so, figure YOUR mileage by taking miles on tank divided by gallons at full fuel-up. Uh, I think you need to reread my post 100% before you say I am wrong. I said drive till you have 1/4 of a tank. I don't want the guy running out of gas. I said fill it up. Most places I have lived, that equates to 'filling up 100%'. So record the miles driven. Then didivde by the gallons replaced. Now, I don't know if a 4 cly. gets much better milage in the Comanche or Cherokee. I think it got maybe 2 more MPG on the Wranglers. Sometimes 4 cyl. are put into vehicles that weigh a bit to much for them. Tom

I can remeber if the gas tank holds 17 or 23 gal. I think 23 gal. So, I divided 335/23 and it was 14 miles per gallon. Now a few things. First yours is an auto, they usually get 2-3 mpg less than a manual. Next yours is an HO. I think they get a bit less than a Renix. Next it depends on what type of driving, city, country, highway. Also, lifts and big tires cut into your mpg. Especially if you don't regear. Also, those hills in PA cost you mileage. There is a benifit to live in a (semi)flatland state line IN. That's besides the taxes. If city for your vehicle, that would probably be fairly good. If it is all highway miles, then it probably should be 18 to 20 mpg. I'd do what the others have told you. Fill tank, set trip odometer to '000'. Drive to 1/4 tank. Fill up. Record gallons needed to fill up. Record miles on trip Odo. Divide miles by gallons = mpg. Keep a recorod of several tankfuls. Tom

'so theres noone to make sure peoples cars r safe every year? There must b alot of accidents due to brakes,tires, etc...you know, the minor stuff that old ladys and lazy people never check' No noone left the state, so there is no one here to check the cars. :D We relie on the Darwin Principal. Less taxes. People die sooner or latter. If they don't care about themselves, life short anyways. Actually, when I first got here in the early 90's, there were some pretty pitaful cars running around. I actually brought out a '78 Honda Civic that probabaly wouldn't have passed PA inspection to much longer. But jobs have come out here, so people can aford new or better cars. Still, a few clunkers around. I look at one of the High School parking lots. There cars are way better than what I remember in HS in PA. Actually, they are better than what I see at work, or what I drive. PA is a good state. I wish IN had the trout streams. It all comes down to how much services you want and what you are willing to pay for them, ie taxes. Tom

that is stupid crazy....taxable value...pfffft...pa only has inspection , emissions and tags...like $120 total IN has no yearly inspections. Also, it is kind of relative. I have lived in PA a few times. Property taxes for housing is at least double in PA than IN. Also, I had to pay an occupation tax. I was paying like $300/yr. since I put down machinist. I was only making $7/hr back then. People making more were paying less. Tom