75sv1

MT = manual transmission Tom

That is what I found out last night. I think about 4 inches. I might look into it more, but I think it is too much work. So, I am back to sourcing parts from a late model Cherokee. Tom

Well, I went to an RC Swap meet. Got some stuff I needed and some I didn't. Then I headed to the PnPs in Indy. There was a P225 75 R15 tire up front. I though about it, but passed. I needed some newer tires on my Cherokee. It had a vibration at speed. There were a lot of people out Saturday, and I had to wait for a wheel barrow. Anyways, the first disk braked Explorer was a 3:73 with a locker. Not having pulled one before, it went fairly well. It had the brake calipers etc, except the pads. I will replace most of that anyways. It was a chore wheeling up to the checkout and to the Cherokee. Some guys help me put it in the back. Then I got the rear wiring harness from a long bed Comanche. I had to cut the wiring and didn't get the rear plug. I didn't have time to drop the fuel tank. I was looking at some Grand Cherokees dashes. My neighbor has a parts '96 GC. Anyways, the next day, I pulled two of the tires from that CG. The dash, the steering column and wheel, the brake booster and MC and the e-brake handle assembly. I am looking to see if and how that dash will/can be adapted. The steering column is a tilt unit. It didn't have the key tumbler. Also the dask is incomplete. I messed around a bit, and the tilt column is about 3 inches shorter from the attaching bolts to the wheel. This is actually good and I feel a bit cramped in the Comanches interior. I looked breifly at the dask. I couldn't find my '95 instrument panel. It was boxed up to ship. Also a wiring harness. Glad I didn't sell them. I might hit the PnP this next next weekend. I need to get a few of the gray interior parts from the one Comanche. Also, look at a few 2 door Cheorkee seats. Then some parts from some Grand Cherokees. Also, pulled the door weather stripping. It looked to be the wider newer style. I'll have to cut it to fit the door opening. A neighbor's kid pulled the rear end and springs for $20 and scrap. Also he took the stock tires. Put on the 31" with the Canyon rims on the front. They look good. Tom

Someone has done a Ford 8.8 swap and kept their ABS. I can't remeber whick forum. I'd do a Google search. Tom Edit, I think it was on MallCrawler. I think I have it printed out at home. If you don't find it, I'll see what I have. From what I remeber it was cutting out every other tooth in the ring sensor, and they there was some wiring involved.

NAPA should sell it, and I think Advanced Auto does too. I'd also look at Car Quest. I just did a '98 Cherokee. A bit different as it has the rubber seal around it. I used the sealant in the tube though. The windshield on it was busted, shatered and a big hole in it. I had a lot of work to pop out the roof and cowl. I bought a windshiled from a junkyard for $75. I think PnP are $30. Tom

Its been a while. I haven't done any work on the truck. I did put the Cherokee back on the road. I just wasn't selling any parts off of it, except nickle and dime stuff. So around Novermber, I bought some parts, windshield, hood, fender etc. There were other problems, but it is on the road and driving OK. So, I'll need to get the interior and doors from another Cherokee. It kind of helps out, though as I need a vehicle to get parts with. My Contour and MB240d get cramped for parts. One of the parts holding me up is a Ford 8.8. I did go to the PnPs in Indy this past weekend. It was raining on and off. I was looking for tires for the Cherokee P225-75-R15s. I didn't see any I liked. I did pick up an antena and a CD player for the Cherokee, $27. It had a tape player before. I wnet to the next one. I hadn't been there before. It did list a FS Grand Cherokee a few months back. It was still there and had the front axel. Someone had taken the springs, so that was a big help. I wondered the yard and there were three Comanches. I pulled the taillights from them. One had buckets (red), I pulled them. They are a bit worn though. I pulled some grey interior parts, the B-pillars and bottom piece, with seatbelts. $114. I went back to pull the GC's front axel. They were one vehicle away from taking it to the crusher. It didn't take to long to pull it. One of the yarg guys put it in back on the yard truck and took it to the front. I paid for it, and we loaded it into the Cherokee. $214. It was heavy, or I was fairly weak from rain and pulling stuff. Overall a good day. I might go back next weekend. I still need to get a Ford 8.8. I did order 4:1 gear set for the Dana 300. There is a sale on the first 50 sets ordered. It won't get here till May. Still, it was $150 off. I have some other work to get done. I still have to get the NSS off the Cherokee. Its on there. I did get a new one off of E-Bay, $50 shipped. The Contour is down. I think it blew a fuel pump. I have the parts. Its just been cold and rainy here. Tom

The brackets off your bench seat should work. I do have a set of brackets, without the rails, that might be available. I'll know next week. I got a set of bucket seats at the P-N-P this weekend. There were three Comanches at one of the Indy PnP. I grabed all the taillights. Tom

I can inspect this for anyone interested in it, that has a bit of a drive. I also have some spare tailights. I'll throw in a set, that is useable, but damaged. I have other sets that are good, but haven't determined a price yet. Tom

Might try: http://car-part.com/

I have seen some write ups on this. I think you will need to have the bottom of the intake welded up or weld material added. Then the face of it machined. Then do a port match. If you put the exhaust gasket from the HO onto the Renix intake, then I think you will get a good idea of where material should be added, and what you will need to grind out. Tom

Why not do the first coat with the self etching, then a coat or two with the sandable primer? Tom

The auto wiring will work. There is a writeup on Jeep.com, I think on this. It a lot more work in my opinion though. Tom

There are a few problems to deal with when swapping in an HO, in place of the Renix. First is the TB, the next is the fuel lines (fuel rail or fuel log). The bolt pattern is different from the Renix to the HO. I don't of anyone making an adapter plate presently. The other solution is to use the HO TB and adapt the electronics of the Renix to it. I think HESCO sells a kit for that. I think its $100.00 though. I looked into d oing that at one time. The mod didn't look difficult. You might to a web search. The bolt tabs for the Renix and HO fuel rails are different. So are the locations of the fuel lines. The HOs are both at the front. The Renix has one at the front and one at the rear. My plan was to use an HO fuel rail and use fuel line to connect the metal lines from a '95 to the metal fuel lines at the frame rail in the MJ. Not as hard as it sounds. Of course you have to swap on your electronics such as distributor. Basically, you can swap on any year head, onto any year block. The latter blocks from '96 up have locator dowel holes. That would affect you with the '92 block. So, you could swap on your Renix head. I swapped on a '95 head onto an '03 block. The engine mounting bracket holes should be the same up to at least '00. I had problems with my '03, but adapted it. A spacer and cut and welded an ear off one sides bracket. If you are close to IN, I have a '95 block that could be salvaged, for free. As far as the pilot bearing bushing, I would check with Advanced Adapters. Tom

I should have one for an '88. Tom

I've kind of stalled out on this. I worked on my Ford Contour SVT for about 2 weeks. I hit a racoon a few years back. It took out the AC condensor and bent the radiator. I changed all the hoses, water pump and some other stuff. I finally, have AC in it. Then I have to work on my MB 240D. It wasn't starting, took a long time cranking to get it started. I adjusted the valves, then replaced some of the glow plugs. I think ti was the glow plugs. Then I finished up some of the stereo install. Still, a little bit of work there. I did get to a pick-n-pull this weekend in Indy. There are two of them there. I couldn't find the one. I made it to the one on 16th St. I was looking for 2dr seats. There was on XJ with 2dr seats. One the steel bracket was broken, the other missing the plastic bezel. I did walk the yard. There is a red MJ 4cyl there. I nabbed the one taillight sitting in the bed. It had a dark gray interior. It was 2wd. The bed had some rust, but could have been salvageable. Also had the rear bumper. I little bent, and I don't remeber the plastic ends being there. I did get a few XY parts. I got the overhead consul for an 98 XJ. I plan to fit it into the Comanche. I'll have to do some cutting on it. I didn't see the wiring piece for it though, nor did I get the sensors in the engine bay. I also got the steering wheel from it. It has the Cruise control buttons. The actuator was crushed, and I didn't get the wiring piece from the steering wheel into the dash. I did look at some Ford 8.8s. It was hot, so I skipped seriously looking at them, nor getting one out. I'll wait a few weeks, and go earlier in the day. I saw one on my neighbors there. He has a tan Comanche. He talked about buying the 4.0L out of the XJ. Never know. Tom

I do have a TB listed in the ForSales: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=23974 Tom

Back about 2000, I transfered from the machine shop to drafting. I was driving an '85 Ford Tempo. It was my DD and a beater. I had a '96 Ford Contour as my good car. The Tempo had some trans problem for the second time. The body was rusty, and I didn't want to put the money into it. I think I was looking for an early Ford Bronco, a Scrambler etc. Those were fetching a bit of money back then. I did test drive a '74 Bronco, but I thought the work needed to it was a bit much. I was driving through a small town near me and spotted the Comanche. I took it for a test drive, and was surprised at the power it had. It did need some work. I paid $1400 and then had about $400 to $600 in suspension seal and general maintenace. I put a header on it, as I broke the factory header, trying to replace the exhaust gasket. It drove fine for a couple of years. I used it during the construction of an addition onto my house. Even then I was planning on some upgrades and adding 4X4. The Master clutch let go, and I replaced it. A few weeks latter the slave clutch went. I already had planned a NV 3550 swap. It was a bit tougher than planned. Then a '95 wiring swap, with the '03 block and '95 head. Now its a '98 wiring swap, with '98 doors, fenders, interior etc. Dana 300 TC, 4.5 lift and some other stuff. Need to get back onto that build. I have a '00 Ford Contour SVT and my good car. A MB 240D as my DD. I am hoping to get the Comanche back on the road for winter time. Tom

Might be careful of the Toyota. I have heard they are having rust problems on their frames. Tom

Another option to the OP, is to port match or see about the feasability of a port match of the Renix intake to the HO head. Some people have port matched the 99+ intake manifolds to Renix heads. They only end up with 1/16 or so of wall thickness on the lower wall. I think that is a bit thin. I'd try and keep 3/16th to a 1/4 wall thickness. Also, there are expxies that are used by motor builders to reshape intake ports. Might see about using them instead of welding. Tom

Fair enough. Now I will lean towards a full replacement for the OP. Since He is in PA, I remeber state inspections. I did live there a few years. I don't remeber them letting you off of anything or much. It really depends on the EGR. If the inspection is a sight inspection or a tailpipe emmissions inspection. Basiaclly, is the ERG ain't there no pass. That would complicate swapping in an HO motor. You would somehow adapt the Renix manifold or cut and weld the ERG port of the Renix manifold onto the HO's manifold. I did breifly look into this. Also, removal of the EGR is against EPA Federal regulations. I seriously doubt you'd get caught, though. Except if your state has inspections. Chear up PA has way more trout streams than IN. Swapping in a newer motor is OK with the EPA. I'd check it out with an inspection station first though. Now, during my build or swap, I did go into the direction of '95 wiring etc. I got the parts, but stalled out on that. I was also thinking about an interior update etc. I kind of lucked into a wrecked '98 Cherokee, for $500. I figured at that point, it would be easier to swap in that wiring, mainly for the instrument panel wiring. I also figured I'd be money ahead, since buying parts individually can get a lot more expensive. Also, I will be selling the engine and trans and other parts. Even if you go to a Pick-n-Pull. Still, it depends on the avialability of a donor and its condition of parts you'd need. Tom

First, OP Look here: http://www.rockmodified.com/Tech/TB/tb_perf.htm I didn't see a listing on HESCO's website for the wiring conversion. I remember it being $125. "it also requires more thinking, and more keeping track of parts. you get more power with a H.O. electrical setup." You sure its the electrical stuff that makes more power? I think the torque is like 2 ft-lbs more and 12 hp more. Maybe its the heads and larger bore of the TB? You you mean I can't put on headers, flow the head, bore the TB etc on a Renix and get more power than a Stock HO? How about a stroker Renix? Think it would make more HP than a stock HO? I also don't see it as more work or more complex than swapping out all the wiring, removing the dash etc. A few more notes on the complete thread. I do see a listing for a chasiss control box for auto trans. This is also listed as a trans computer. There are also writeups on how to convert auto wiring to manual wiring. I don't know if I'll go that route or not. I did get a partial manaul engine wiring harness for a '98. I did read that the auto EMC will run a manaul engine, but you will get an engine code. I did buy an EMC for a manual engine. Tom

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... wap&page=2 See post #18. I just skimmed the thread. That is basically how I was going to do mine. I should have a '95 fuel lines and possibly the fuel rail if the OP goes this route. My opinion is it would be a lot less work than swapping all the wiring, dash etc. Many have done it and had good results. Tom

that only gives you a renix-controlled high output. it is ALOT more dicking around for one, and it's an inferior operating system as well. The OP wanted to know what or how to swap in an HO motor in place of a Renix. Everyone else was saying to do a full swap of wiring. That to me is a lot of work. I know, I am in that process. I did look into doing the wiring etc. for this swap. So, I'd say a lot less dickering around. The Renix might be inferior to an extent, but still gets the job done. There are some pluses to the Renix. Some of the Stroker guys like the anti-knock sensor the Renix has, and the HO doesn't. Also, the stock Renix gets a bit better mpg. I think mainly due to the EGR. Tom

Might look at Car-Part.com. I did a search for the Philly region. They go for $25-$35. Its not worth my time at the moment to pull the one I have on an engine. Tom

I think if you look around the net you will find that you can swap just the HO motor into your bay. You will have to delete the EGR valve. SO, if you have emmisions visual inspection in your state, then its probably a no-go. The other problem is the Throttle body. The Renix won't bolt onto the HO intake. The HO won't directly plug into the Renix wiring. There are two solutions. The first an adapter plate. The other is to modify the wiring. I don't think anyone makes an adapter plate, presently. Someone use to. If you have acces to a mill, I think you could make one yourself. I have seen writeups and some firm sold a wiring kit for HO motor to Renix. Might look at Rusty's Off Road. Might do a search on JeepForum.com. Tom