Parei_doll_ia

https://nickintimedesign.com/renix-parts-suggestions/ NTKs are usually the go to, but they stopped using a ceramic housing at some point so some have said they're not as good. I just got one and it seems fine so far. The one to avoid is Bosch.

Key Parts would be a lot easier than what I did piecing together XJ wheel arches. XJ arches are both shorter and narrower, and the flare stamping is slightly different. I fabricated some patches of my own for the inner fender. XJ inner fenders can be used for patches there too.

I usually use Summit for stuff like that, mainly because I live next door to them, but I also don't like Jeg's website. Summit is a lot easier to navigate. It looks like Summit and Quadratec both carry the same valve retainers, Crown isn't usually the best in the world but spring retainers should be fine. Or go down to the pull a part and take them out of any 4.0 for $2.

Are you sure that's not for a 1978 Cherokee? That's an FSJ radio

I had Ox lockers in my JK that worked great. I had the air adapter for them too, so they worked basically the same as ARB. I didn't like how ARB's have you run a pressurized line inside the diff and have it seal on the axle shaft. Ox uses a shift fork in the cover kinda like the CAD, but if you lose air pressure, they have a backup you can screw in to lock it over.

I took mine apart after I found one in the JY and it sounded muffled. Any XJ/MJ/YJ up to 96 should have the same radio. It's not hard to take the part that holds the cassette off, just a few small screws. It probably just needs a good cleaning with alcohol, I would check all the small wire connections with the button problems. I've been buying old metal and punk cassettes when I find them for cheap on Ebay, some new albums are starting to be sold on cassette too, I just got Ministry's new album on cassette. A $20 Bluetooth cassette adapter also makes your old looking radio function like a more modern one.

The average age of cars on the road is 12 years, so assuming that as the half life, there would be less than 17% left of any car after 30 years, so it's not that shocking

Molds are expensive, they have to cover development costs somehow.

Any product that chemically removes rust will also remove any existing rust preventative coatings. I've used evaporust and this stuff a few times, but always to get the rust off, then paint it. You're also supposed to wash that stuff off after 15 minutes or something. Tools are still better off getting cleaned the manual way since they're so small. WD40 is a poor rust prevention compound, you want something that's more waxy. I'm not sure what CPC Type 2 translates to in the civilian world (it smells like motorcycle chain wax), but it works great for cleaning tools

FortNine for motorcycle stuff, some of the best produced moto videos I've seen. https://www.youtube.com/c/FortNine Revzilla now that they picked up Ari Henning and Zack Courts https://www.youtube.com/c/RevZilla Scott Manley for space stuff https://www.youtube.com/c/szyzyg Kyle Hill for a bunch of science stuff, and he's done a couple documentaries about various nuclear disasters and what caused them. https://www.youtube.com/c/KyleHillScience

I'd be interested too. I sanded it off when I painted the jambs since it was too far gone, but I did take a picture of it and wrote everything down in excel

After 3 attempts and completely taking my CNC router apart to tighten/clean everything, I finished a plug for the 8.8 ABS sensor. It was supposed to be a short little project too, just using some 1x0.25 7075 bar stock that I had laying around. I posted the file on thingiverse if anyone needs one and has the means of machining it, I'd be a little worried about long term exposure to heat and oil if it was printed, but would probably work short term. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5171804

Yeah, the toe link came without the grease zerk tapped, luckily I had a tap and got it without creating many shavings

My bed is filling up with parts, I ended up getting Metalcloak CAs and 4.5" springs since they were great on my JK. Also bought a v8 ZJ tie rod and 97+ XJ drag link to keep steering cheap and fitting stock wheels. I got the General Springs after about 3 months, but they look like they're worth it. I got the ends for the c-clip eliminators installed, and got all the bare metal covered with primer before it got too cold. Just need to get the bearings pressed on the axles when I take them to get the gears installed. The ball joints came in just in time, which was good because I was worried that the right lower hole was too big. 3 of the BJs were Moog, but the RL was an unknown brand that was about 0.006" larger than the Moog, and the Moog would slide into that side with no resistance. I bought the Mevotech TTXs from Rockauto, and they fit great. I like the installation adapter the lowers come with, I had to grind one down a little to fit with the loaner press.

I used Sherman and a BFH and they fit decently with some massaging. You're probably going to have to make a patch for the tunnel, I made a few small patches where the pans I got didn't go up high enough. It doesn't have to be pretty since it all gets covered. Key parts makes good stuff, I'm not sure if they have MJ pans, the XJ is slightly different.

The springs I just got from GS have a 3/8-18 in the center

You could use a cut to size grommet, just use what you need and fill the rest with RTV. You could also de pin the connector and pass them through a 1/2" hole

The saga continues with JWST

I had a lot of those little cracks like you have on your roof. Each crack will let water in, so you'll have a spot of corrosion at the bottom of each one. The top coat is only as strong as the layers underneath that it's bonded to, so it takes some judgement to figure out how deep you need to go. I'm not that great at bodywork, and I did mine on a college budget during the middle of an internship, so I ended up using bedliner because it was easier and cheaper.

There's really no use in keeping one that isn't in pristine shape 100% original. I agree with not doing a 97+ swap though, I like the old interior better. Renix isn't really that bad if you know how to use a multimeter, and if Nick is able to get semiconductors again, the R.E.M. helps a lot

I'm putting an 8.8 in mine, and adding C clip eliminator axles to make it 1 inch wider than the 35. I got the housing for $100 from the JY, a lot of them have 3.73 with a LSD. The spline count is for the axle shaft going into the spider gear in the diff, has nothing to do with the driveshaft.

Yeah I had to learn what a triple square bolts were when I bought my VW.

Nice. I did the timing belt on my TDI a few months ago, idk anything about Volvos, but it wasn't too hard. Just make sure to spend the money on the special tools if there are any, there's a reason why they exist. Buy your parts from FCP Euro, they have a lifetime warrantee on everything they sell, including oil. You just have to pay to ship it back. If the Swedes are anything like Germans, they love to use TTY bolts too.

GS has a 4 leaf and 5 leaf without military wrap. They hid the MW ones on their site because there's a long backorder for them. I called to see if I would still get mine, and he said the ones that were already ordered are about a month out.

People getting mad about the Integra like it was ever anything more than a Civic with an Acura badge