89 MJ

I think it’s probably because those TJ Rubicon axles are expensive. Somewhere in the write ups, there should be info covering a disc brake swap, which should have the info you want.

Ok, figured I’d comment and make sure you knew. I bet it is pretty darn expensive, I know it wasn’t cheap when I was looking it up a couple years ago.

Couple things to say about these points. Your transfer case linkage could just be out of adjustment. It can be finicky. You might want to double check what fluid your trans needs. These new gear oils will eat the synchros, so a lot of times you need to actually run an engine oil.

As far as I know, the base model cluster went unchanged. The full cluster that looks like that ended after the 87 model year.

I believe XJ ones will work, but need some modifications. I can’t remember for sure though.

Your experience sounds about right for DirtBound. I've never ordered from them because I've heard that the wait times are ridiculous. My interpretation of the homepage is that he will contact you in a few days (which will probably end up being weeks at a minimum based on all of the other evidence) and tell you if he's either going to finish your order or if he'll refund you. If you don't hear from him soon, I suppose you might have to call your credit card company or your bank and see if they can get you a refund.

If you've got the time, you might be able to grease all of the joints. It might buy you a couple of weeks on the bad joints.

Lots of this stuff needs a visual inspection while the steering wheel is being rocked back and forth or grab each suspension component and try to move it. There should be no play. These are just guesses, but it looks like you need tie rod ends, the body side of the track bar joint, and at least the steering box side of the drag link.

Unlikely. That’s most likely a front suspension issue.

They have rubber in them that goes bad over time

Now that would be cool.

Nice Ranchero! Looking forward to the updates.

That sounds like a headache. Hard to find a good body shop anymore.

I suppose the MJ might be an easier sell than the welder. A running MJ might be worth a little more too, I'm not sure. I think it comes down to whether or not you really want another project. It's a shortbed, like your Eliminator, so I don't think it would be anymore useful than your Eliminator, so it would probably just be something to fix and then sell. Then you've got the issue of finding a stopping point on fixing it. Do you just make it run, or do you make it run and fix the rust? Or maybe you get it, fix it, and then use that as your daily driver and take the time to get the CJ to the point that you want it at. Then once you've go the CJ ready for daily driver duties, sell the Sportruck. Or keep it and use it as your winter truck to keep the Eliminator out of the elements all winter. It's a tough decision, but personally, unless you want another project, I don't think I would trade.

Ok, just figured I’d check

In my opinion, 16.8-17.5 isn't terrible mileage for being in town. Were your previous mileage calculations with the AX-15 as well? Being that the AX-15 is a heavier duty transmission than the AX-5, it would make sense that the new transmission would take more power and reduce fuel economy. Is your speedometer still accurate since the trans swap? If you got a different tooth speedo gear in the transfer case, both your speedo and odometer will be off, making your fuel mileage calculations off. Do you guys get winter blend gas in WA? It is common to get worse mileage in the winter.

At 3”, I don’t think you should need a new rubber brake line. Just a stock replacement should do. Is yours stretched tight or something?

Let’s see some pictures of the rusty spots. That will help a lot with figuring this out. Remember, the rust is always worse where you can’t see it.

Looking good!

That looks like new. Great work.

It could be just about anything in the front suspension. Your best bet will be to have someone in the truck wiggling the steering wheel back and forth while you are under the truck looking for play in parts. Everything in the steering should be moving together and have no play. Also inspect the control arm bushings for cracks.

Frame got sandblasted and painted and now is starting to go back together.

They are great videos. I always look forward to watching them when they come out.

Having driven this truck after sitting in the sun all day and my truck after sitting in the sun all day, I can confirm, it makes a huge difference in cab temperature. It also really doesn’t affect visibility at all.