89 MJ

Looks like a good project. What do you have planned for it?

Looks like Tim just linked one. I’ll take a look for others too.

Sounds pretty rowdy for a little diesel. It's also good to see updates on this rig again.

If I were you, I'd look for one that mounts to the top of the bed side, not the inside edge like that one. I don't think any truck bed is a perfect rectangle, so finding one the same shape as the MJ will be tough. One that mounts to the top of the rail will let you move it enough that you should be able to get it to work.

I'm not one for red and I'm not typically a huge fan of the late model front end, but this truck wears both well. Funnily enough, two of my favorite MJs off of the top of my head are red. I'm exited to watch this video.

I was going to say what has already been said, but also, check your rubber brake lines. The break down over time and will let fluid get to the caliper, but will not let it return from the caliper. If you let the truck sit and it rolls fine, but then after use the brakes get stuck more and more, I would lean towards it being the rubber lines.

What I've had good luck with is cutting the wire off of the thing in the column you are replacing, then tape your new connector to it, and pull the wire through the column. Most recently, I had to do it with my whole turn signal switch, but I'd think it should work for anything in the column.

Tim is correct, that is your spare tire winch. If you're not going to have a spare under the bed, you don't need it. Don't throw it away though, they are restorable and someone may want it.

No video so we get to hear it?

Dad is getting his 09 6.0L cleaned up to install in place of the 2000 6.0L. The 09 makes way more power and has aluminum cylinder heads.

Dad had to use it to move his 6.0L around for his truck project. It hasn’t run in over a month and fired right up with a little jump.

Maybe that's the difference. Mine was an OEM one. I'd guess Taddraughn would also use an aftermarket one, so if that's the case, he should be good to go.

Yes, learn from my mistakes. Don't spend time and money with paint until you know that they fit

Interesting. Mine was a stock 96 exhaust manifold and I had to clearance a couple of lower corners on my intake to get it to clear. I suppose it could've been a casting variance with the intakes or a manufacturing variance with the exhaust manifold flange.

Just keep in mind that the O2 for Renix is in the manifold. Also, you will have to either clearance the Renix intake or the HO exhaust manifold because they will contact each other. Been there, done that.

Well, with the soot on the intake and the boogers on the manifold, it looks like you might've found your ticking. Yikes.

The seller had two of the 87-90 books listed. I bought the second one.

I believe its on Marketplace somewhere in MO for $37500.

I like my Luk clutch kit. It has been perfect for daily driving without being too stiff, but it still doesn't slip when off roading, towing, or when I dump the clutch like an idiot (which is rare, but fun).

They actually do really well for things like crawling because they aren't designed for speed and are designed to be worked hard. Some of them even had factory locking rear axles.

And I would think that a bent axle would have a more evident mark on parts of it and a harder to see mark on other parts. If the mark was pretty even, that would have me thinking that the shaft was fine.

Out of curiosity, did it have a fuel shutoff at the tank? I know all of my garden tractors (and my fullsize tractor) have had one. Of course, adding a secondary one is never a bad idea, especially if the original one was hard to get to.

That looks like a very nice, honest, original MJ. Great find! In terms of the ticking sound, it sounds like it could easily be either a lifter, piston slap, or an exhaust leak. I'd check for the exhaust leak first. The factory manifolds are known to crack and the intake and exhaust manifold bolts are prone to loosening up over time. That Lancia looks like a very cool project!

No movement in the ball joints is good news. That will save a headache and some money. The parts that you took pictures of are your sway bar end links in the first picture and your sway bar bushings in your second picture. The good news is that those are fairly cheap and easy to replace. I don't think that I will be the source of your troubles though. The job of the sway bar is to control side to side lean in corners for the most part, so in the grand scheme of things, it isn't necessary. You could pull the sway bar and end links off and then drive it a little bit to see if that fixes the issue, but be warned, the handling will be a little funky. If it cures your problem, then order the sway bar bushings and end links. If it doesn't fix the issue, maybe try the test again with the vehicle's weight on the ground. Really, it looks like you need end links and bushings either way, but I don't think that it is the cause of your issues.

Missing all of the badges is the big one. The shininess of the paint also isn’t quite right. If you look at the engine bay shots and front suspension pics, they are nice, but clearly original. The paint is way nicer than the engine bay or underside though, pointing out it’s been painted. This is especially evident by looking at the firewall. It should look the same as the paint on the body.