89 MJ

Did the taillight get out unscathed?

Indeed it does, and I’m sure some of those wheels wouldn’t fit, but if he just needed a set of rollers at one point, there are lots of good options out there.

That is a great picture with the fall colors in the background.

Bolt pattern will be 5x4.5. Same as an XJ, KJ, YJ, TJ, Ford Ranger, Explorer, Explorer Sport Trac, Mustang, Crown Vic, etc. plenty of options out there.

Thank you!

Hello!

Poor thing Bucket seats, drop in bedliner, and tow mirrors though. Plus the normal MJ pieces, it might be worth pulling some parts from.

Thanks guys!

@Pete M, have anything?

That is the one I am looking at.

Very cool!

Sway bars are one thing that I am considering upgrading on my truck. I couldn’t ask for better brakes—the truck will easily make you lock the seatbelt. Good call on the coils, however, it never leaned stock and the coils that are in it are used ones with a lot of miles on them. I may look at swapping them still. I don’t want more midrange power to be able to drive the truck fast or anything, but I do want a little bit more so it can keep up with some newer cars under daily driver circumstances. I am wanting more midrange torque too, if I can get it.

I’m guessing it’s an issue with the computer tune. Did you get theLS computer tuned or did you run a difference ECU?

Thank you. Plugs, plug wires, and 02 sensors were new the the engine swap. Temp sender for the gauge is in the head now, if that’s what you are talking about, and is also new. Fuel pressure was good when we put the new engine in last December. The only pet that hasn’t really been messed with is the TB and it was even doggish prior to the engine change.

How did I know you were going to say that

I have to say, I’m surprised by the number of Metric Ton trucks in the registry.

Bump for Pete! After fixing my rusty bed, my only advice would be to buy a solid one like Pete has here. Any body shop could fix the tree dent, if that is what you are worried about. Heck, I’m sure even you, reader, could fix it with a slide hammer, some body hammers, and some patience. It’s better than fixing rust, or worse yet, rust and dents. Remember, time is money.

Bump for Pete! After fixing my rusty bed, my only advice would be to buy a solid one like Pete has here. Remember, time is money.

Bump for Pete! After fixing my rusty bed, my only advice would be to buy a solid one like Pete has here. And if you are worried about the dents, most body shops would rather fix dents than rust. Remember, time is money.

Bump for Pete! After fixing my rusty bed, my only advice would be to buy a solid one like Pete has here. Remember, time is money.

Bump for Pete! After fixing my rusty bed, my only advice would be to buy a solid one like Pete has here. Remember, time is money.

I want to preface this by saying that my Comanche right now is fine, but I am just having some performance issues with it. I shouldn’t even say they are issues, but they are things that are happening that I would rather did not happen. I’ll start with the leaf springs. The leaf springs in my bastard pack in my 89 are all getting worn out. While I am in there replacing springs, I want to go 1.5” higher, for a total of 4.5” of lift and I want Metric Ton springs because when I get my own place, I’m going to have to use it a lot more for truck stuff, and I want it to be able to tow and haul a little bit better without squatting. I see that Hell Creek 4.5” springs are rated at 1440 pounds, does anyone have experience with those and towing and how do they ride empty? Is there one brand that is better than the other? I seem to recall one of the two companies offering Military wrap (also, I don’t know what that means, I just remember that it is good), but I couldn’t find it on either website. Does General spring make a Metric Ton 4.5” lift spring? If so, how does it tow and ride empty Now on to front coil springs. My truck has a lean. The left front corner has always sat visibly lower than the right front. IIRC, when we measure it, it was .75” lower. If I am replacing the rear leafs, I might as well do front coils at the same time. Right now, I am looking at the Rubicon Express coils. Is there anything else out there that you folks would recommend? I know to avoid Rough Country like the plague. Let’s go for steering now. I am looking at a steering box brace because I currently have 30x10.50s and have no plans of going smaller, so I want to deal with this before it becomes and issue. I am looking at this Ironman 4x4 kit right now. https://ironman4x4fab.com/products/xj-steering-box-brace?variant=29782948216920 Does anyone have any experience with it? I am not planning on ordering the drop brackets, but does anyone know if I would need the steering box spaced or not? I would assume that I would. Finally, for some engine upgrades. For whatever reason, it seems like my truck doesn’t wake up until 2,500-3,000 RPM. I have the 96 header and no crush pipe in the exhaust. No plugged cat either. I’m also running 4 holes injectors. I know the biggest performance upgrade is gearing, which is why I have 4.10s in my truck. Would the bored throttle body help wake up my truck too? I know more air usually equals more power. Of course, I’d take more power anywhere I can get it, but it would be especially nice lower in the power band. Long term, I want to run a standalone ECU, cam it and run boost through the engine, but boost and standalone just isn’t in the cards right now. I have already made a prior post about camming it that I plan to look back at. Thanks guys., and sorry about being long-winded.

Very nice truck! CC can host your pictures too! Have you put your truck in the registry?

Looks great!

A good body shop should be able to fix that bedside.