AZJeff

The ‘01 XJ fuel pump assy. has a built in pressure regulator. You will need that to work with the fuel rail from an ‘01. The gauge sender is different, of course, on the MJ fuel gauges😢 The perfect setup would be to somehow mount MJ fuel sender onto your XJ pump assy., and then mount that whole thing into you MJ tank. The last part is the toughest, and I suspect that’s why most guys wind up putting in a tank compatible with the late XJ style pump assembly.

When the key is turned to "ON", the fuel pump will be engaged. It will pump until the appropriate fuel line pressure is achieved, and then it will stop. (It then starts up again and delivers more fuel as the fuel line pressure drops due to fuel consumption. It repeats this pulsing process as needed as long as the engine is running.) Does your whirring sound occur for the first few seconds after the key is turned "ON",but before the engine is actually running? If that is the case, it's the fuel pump. My wife's KJ makes some fuel pump noise before the engine starts, but then again, the vehicle is 15 years old. Maybe yours is the same way.

You say you "tightened the steering box a full turn". Does that mean you turned the pitman shaft screw on the top of the box a FULL TURN? That's WAY more than what would be expected for "tightening up" a slightly loose box. A quarter turn is more expected. If you turned it that much, there is a good chance you have created binding in the box, but that can only be detected by having the front end unloaded (no weight on wheels), and even then, it's hard to determine unless the pitman arm is disconnected from the drag link. If your box has 150K miles or more a new (reman) box would be a wise move, assuming you have more than normal play in the box proper. Notice I say "the box proper", because lots of guys try to address steering linkage looseness issues by cranking on the pitman shaft thrust screw, and all that does is trash the steering box.

Well then it's not the fuel pump. So you are saying you hear a whirring sound with the key on, but the engine not running? Dumb question---is your radio/audio system OFF? There is nothing else in the back of a stock MJ that would make noise when the engine is not running but the key is "ON"

It is probably the fuel pump, as there are no other parts that move under the vehicle under the bed to make noise when it's not actually rolling. I would be concerned about a pump that just started making noise out of the clear blue. Perhaps others can offer more knowledge of fuel pump failure modes, but if it was MY fuel pump, I would be planning on replacing it.

Eagle, you and I have talked about this issue on this forum in the past. Yes, most state motor vehicle codes limit how much light you can have projected from the front of the vehicle. However, there are times and places where some drivers would want more illumination, such as in the rural areas here in Arizona. It gets REALLY dark out here away from towns, and I, for one, want all the illumination I can get, whether I am driving on paved roads or on forest service trails. The key, of course, is to use common sense. If you are driving whether there is other traffic, don't use auxiliary lighting, since it might blind other drivers. Stick to the factory lamps, and use them accordingly (dimming the brights, etc.) I also suspect that there is a difference in law enforcement attitude to extra lighting in various parts of the country. Out in rural areas, it's recognized that added lighting is actually a safety benefit, assuming you are using it away from other vehicles, and a police officer wouldn't do much about someone running a light bar or whatever, as long as you used it like one would their high beam headlights.

I tap into the power that feeds the parking lights. That new power wire feeds the switch(es) that control the relay(s) that power any auxiliary lights. Doing this means that the auxiliary lights automatically shut off whenever the parking lights are off, even if the auxiliary light switches are in the "on" position.

I always wire any auxiliary lights to be “hot” whenever the parking lights are on. I do this by feeding the relay control switch from the feed to the parking lights themselves. of course, this means you have to make sure any aux. lights that are not compliant with your local and state laws are switched off when you are on paved roads...

Sway bars are not tough to find/install, since they are the same as those on the Jeep XJ Cherokee. It will be a junkyard item, of course. Lots of the guys who do serious off-roading remove their sway bars to increase articulation. Maybe someone with an XJ who does off-roading will have one you can pick up. Since the truck you picture is lifted, you will need extended sway bar links.

Any caliper that has sat unused for any length of time is probably going to leak when put in service again. I would just plan on getting reman'd calipers if I were you. The discs would probably be OK, once you cleaned them up. I used a vibratory sander to clean the rust off of mine, and hand sanded in the parking brake drum portion. (Then again, this is in AZ, where rust on junkyard parts usually isn't very significant.) I would also opt for new parking brake shoes if you are wanting to get the parking brake functional. You will need to figure out how to use KJ or ZJ cables in conjunction with (probably) an XJ parking brake equalizer. That's what I did on my disc conversion on my MJ (and what I also did on my XJ before.)

In a race application, it would be best to add in a manually adjustable proportioning valve. Remove the factory stuff from inside the factory distr. block, and add in the prop. valve. There is NO real diffference is width between disc and drum setups on the same axle. One question, though: you say you plan to buy the disc conversion stuff for less than $100. I assume you mean you will acquire the calipers, mounting brackets, and rotors from a ZJ from a junkyard. If that is the case, you might want to spring for rebuilt calipers if the junkyard ones have been sitting around a while. Also, do you plan to incorporate the drum parking brake, so just skip that since it is a race truck?

For my rear panel, I used a piece of "masonite" hardboard (I had the old piece as a template, but you can figure out the size without the old one if you use cardboard to mock it up.) I covered the masonite with black headliner material. Carpet is a bit more durable, but either one will work. For the headliner, I had previously done the headliner in my 2000 XJ, so I knew how to do it. I bought OEM color headliner off of eBay, and some 3M headliner adhesive. Then I scraped/brushed all the old headliner off the foam board backer they use to support the fabric. Once it was clean, spray the adhesive and roll out the headliner material. Then roll it over the edges and attach again with adhesive. Trim as needed. Just be REAL careful not to get adhesive on your hands while doing this, as it transfers dirt to light colored headliner material instantly.

CORRECT. Antifreeze contains chemicals that perform at least two important functions: 1. keeps corrosion from building on engine block and other metal parts of cooling system 2. lubricates seal on water pump Plain water cannot do that, even if it is distilled.

The original “orange” antifreeze was GM Dexcool, and was intended for use in GM vehicles that had aluminum cyl. Heads. Then along came antifreezes with HOAT, and some of those also happen to be orange, but are NOT the same as Dexcool. Both Ford and Chrysler use HOAT type coolants now, as do some foreign brands. They are NOT always orange. Some types of coolants do not mix well, and can cause damage. Dexcool is for sure among them. The primitive engines in the MJ/XJ do not need, nor do they benefit from, HOAT type coolants. Plain old “regular” green coolant is quite acceptable. if you vehicle has orange coolant in it, and you don’t know if it’s HOAT, Dexcool, or something else, don’t add green stuff to it. Instead, flush and restart with fresh green stuff. And RV antifreeze is intended for use in the water systems of RV’s. As such, it’s not poisonous to humans. It also is very poor as a coolant for internal combustion engines.

You must have a different connector than I have/had. On my 2000XJ, and my MJ that sports a 2001XJ engine/PCM, the connector is NOT a hermitic seal. If oil leads out of the sender, it will weep out around the connector body where it slides over the plug half on the sender.

The PCM on a 2000 XJ is located over by the air filter and is sandwiched between the air filter and the inside fender wall. How is just the center connector (“C2”) going to get oil contamination? In fact, how are ANY of the 3 going to get oil in them?

Where did you get those cute switches with the graphics?

You can pull the coil rail and stick a plug into one of the rubber sockets (hold it in with some tape) and then ground the end of the plug. If you see no spark there, then it's time to check the coil pack itself. (There are actually THREE coils in the pack, by the way.) The coil receives 12VDC whenever the key is "on", and the PCM controls the firing of the coils by grounding the lead from a given coil via a "drain" wire that goes to the PCM. Because of this, there are 4 primary wires that go to the coil rail: ---The dark green with orange tracer wire is the 12V feed from fuse #18 in the power distribution center. ---The gray wire is the "drain" for coil #1, and goes to pin 7 on connector C1 on the PCM ---The dark blue with tan tracer wire is the "drain" for coil #2, and goes to pin 9 on connector C2 on the PCM ---The red with a yellow tracer is the "drain for coil #3, and goes to pin 1 on connector C1 on the PCM If you measure between the 12V feed pin on the coil pack to any of the other "drain" wires, the impedance should be 0.71 to 0.88 ohms.

Yes, but they will have to be from a 96 or older XJ, unless you want to modify your floor pan to accept the later XJ seat bases.

The welded nubs don't interfere, but the metal or plastic clips that slide over the nubs to attach the old bright metal trim must be removed. (You want to do that anyhow, since they promote rusting around the nubs.)

I 'think' the OEM trans coolers were mounted low in front of that AC condenser, and had two rubber lines connected to it. At least that is where is was on my 2000XJ. My aftermarket on I put in my MJ runs up and down along the driver's side of the grille (in front of the condenser) and is about 8" wide and 12" tall, give or take.

Make new ones from 1/16” polyethylene sheet stock, using the old one as a template. Cut with scissors and exacto knife. polyethylene sheet can be purchased on Amazon.

I explained this in detail earlier, but Eagle was more concise in his explanation. To repeat: changing to the rubber trim found late style XJ’s CAN be done, but it requires a NEW WINDSHIELD be installed.

The later XJ-style rubber trim actually has a groove in it that slips over the perimeter of the glass before the glass is bonded to the windshield opening in the body. Often, the adhesive holding the windshield in also bonds the rubber trim to the glass, making salvage of existing rubber trim problematic/ Owing to this, the only way to really install this trim is to get a new piece, and then do it at the time of glass installation. Installing glued-in glass isn't too tough, provided you have the right urethane adhesive. It's the removal of the existing glass is where your challenge will be. Getting the glass out WITHOUT CRACKING IT is bit tricky, since the cured urethane that attaches the glass must be cut around the entire perimeter, and the the glass must be lifted out. Once the glass is out, the urethane residue on the glass must be completely removed (or nearly so), so that the new urethane bead applied in the body opening as a clean, flat surface upon which to bond. If you are not familiar with removing bonded in glass, I would defer this to a auto glass company. You will be much happier with the result, and won't risk breaking your glass taking it out and reinstalling it.

I have the entire 1990 FSM if you would like a copy. All we have to do is figure out how I can post it somewhere.