AZJeff

Those nuts cut their own threads as they are installed the first time onto the smooth stud that is welded to the cab. If you want to use conventional nuts, you will need to thread those studs with a corresponding die. That may prove difficult, since the lead-in on a die won't allow you to create full-depth threads for more than 1 or 2 turns. Unless your studs are really trashed, I would use the OEM type speed nut. Alternatively, you could use a push on clip like this:

I have Core 4X4 arms on mine. I had JKS on my last XJ. They both seem similar in overall quality. Whatever you do, make sure the arms come with RUBBER, not urethane, bushings, unless you want your fillings rattled anytime you drive it.

Guys, I would think what hub size will work is really dependent on whether it will fit the PULLEY on an XJ/MJ with the 4.0 The pulley (and it's bolt pattern) is the determining factor, is it not?

Gee, Cruiser. That would imply you were torquing them to 185 ft-lbs or more. I guess the bolts are strong enough to handle it

Good point.

The spec. for track bar nuts (depending on which ones) is no more than about 90 ft-lbs. While that is high, I would torque them ALL to about 100 ft-lbs, and use self-locking nuts or Loctite on the nuts. They are either 7/16 or 1/2 inch diameter, and the limit for grade 8 with dry threads is supposed to be 110 ft.-lbs, so I don't think they are overtorqued at 100. It seems those nuts have a propensity to loosen up relatively easily, for whatever reason.

Cork will work, but it’s not as compliant as the closed cell foam. The gasket is intended to basically be a water shield against any droplets that run down the engine side of the firewall.

Pretty much any kind of closed cell foam will work.

JEGS and some of the on-line speed shops will have those conical manifold washers. I would recommend using studs with nuts in place of the bolts in as many locations as possible. (Particularly on the bottom row of bolts.)

By “headliner” I assume you mean the foam-backed fabric. That’s available from multiple vendors on eBay in a variety of colors, as is the spray adhesive used to attach it to the backer board. The backer board that supports the foam (and is made from some fiberglass like material) is unique to the MJ vehicle. You might be able to adapt one from an XJ (this is what I did). Others on this forum might have a line on an original MJ backer board.

Cool!! Yeah, Eagle and I are both "seasoned veterans" when it comes to working on automotive stuff. Other persons might use terms like "fossil" or "old codger" In any case, I remember when (as a YOUNG teenager) there were brake light switches like that. I am glad you were able to fix it with one old codger's advice.

I must be a hillbilly. I always use a pipe wrench. Yeah, it makes small marks on the rod from the teeth in the jaws, but it's really easy to use, since it's self releasing when you turn the wrench backwards.

Oil pressure on an engine running normal motor oils (10w30 and the like) will NOT rapidly fluctuate. Yes, it will go up and down as engine speed changes, but advancing the throttle from idle to 2000 rpm and holding it there should cause the pressure to climb (with a slight delay) and hold. Likewise, releasing the throttle from 2000rpm back to idle should cause the pressure to drop, again with a slight delay. If the oil pressure is "bouncing around" with a mechanical guage, something is wrong with the oiling system (assuming you have confirmed it with a second guage). If the oil pressure is rapidly fluctuating with an ELECTRICAL guage, then the issue is either (1)bad sender, (2)bad guage, or (3)varying voltage being supplied to instrument cluster. Mechanical oil pressure guages do NOT need bleeding to get accurate readings.

I had Brown Dogs in my last XJ, and I can say this: at the time I installed them, Brown Dog offered both rubber and polyurethane bushings for the mounts. DO NOT used the poly ones unless you like not being able to see anything clearly through your rear-view mirrors. Even the rubber bushing versions transmit some vibration. Owing to this, when I put new mounts in my MJ, I went with OEM type.

I agree with MiniBeast. A compression test is something I would do right away. Another thing you might want to do is send off an oil sample to someone like Blackstone Laboratories to have a chemical analysis for presence of coolant in the oil.

You should start by getting a shop manual with the wiring diagrams for your model year of MJ. Then obtain a multimeter, if you don’t have one, and use it to start chasing down the lighting circuits. There are links on this forum to where you can download the manual.

Glad you got it assembled. A word of caution, though: it’s not a good practice to stretch out the flexible brake line to the extent seen in the above photo, as it can weaken the line and cause cracking.

My MJ is lifted about 3.5 inches, and it had an aftermarket adjustable track bar that had the ball/socket joint on the chassis end like the OEM type. It worked fine, when adjusted properly. But it used the standard OEM track bar bracket, and the coil spring on the driver's side would occasionally rub on the bracket, and make any annoying "sproing-ing" noise. I replaced that track bar with a Rough Country track bar and bracket that uses rubber bushings on both ends. The important part is that the track bar bracket is not designed like the OEM one, and adds clearance near the spring, thus eliminating the weird "sproing" noise when the spring flexes. As far as your tires wearing on the inside.....do you have wheel spacers attached to the hub flanges to increase track width? That can cause the axle housing to flex, and cause your wheel camber to become negative, and increase tire wear on the inside of the footprint of the tire.

Lots of XJ guys think the best solution to the floor pan being "waterproof" and easy to clean is to put truck bedliner on the floor. If applied correctly, it certainly is very durable. Of course, the downside is that it makes the vehicle have no insulation against heat/cold on the floor, and no soundproofing. That's OK for a trail rig, but if it's also a daily driver, it might get kinda old to hear all that road noise when traveling at any speed.

In order to sucessfully paint those pieces, (which are made from stainless steel, as others have pointed out), you will need to scuff up the surface a bit to get good paint adhesion. A "Scotch Brite" pad works really well. Unfortunately, that would make them less valuable if you decide later to sell them.....

I concur with this approach. The tables that are out there don't achieve the level of precision needed. (At least they didn't for me, as when I used them, I had WAY too much caster.) Once I spent the time to use the angle finder and tape measure, my MJ drove MUCH better, and with the corrrect caster, the pinion angle on the front diff. was in the allowable range, and I didn't have that weird noise coming from the front drive shaft.

About the only way that situation could exist is if the coolant level was below minimum prior to the overheat.

The door “cardboard” can be replaced by hardboard commonly called “Masonite” that is found at lumber yards. Replacement “watershield” material can be fabricated from 3mil thick clear poly sheeting, and attached using the special “sticky caulk” that comes in rolls and is available on Amazon. Using the poly and the special caulk allows the shield to be removed/reused without damage. That’s an important feature for owners of older Jeep’s😆

When did you do your conversion? I did mine about 2 years ago. I wonder if you did yours more recently, and they addressed the parking brake issue.

It's odd you state the above in red. I put this same kit on my 1989 with the D44, and I found two issues with the Teraflex kit: 1. the spacers used to preload the wheel bearing were oversized for the axle tube, and needded to be turned down in outside diameter slightly. 2. I bought the parking brake cables they recommended, and they did NOT fit correctly into the bracket that supports the caliper. The tines on the metal clip that retains the cable sheath won't snap into the bracket because the bracket casting is too thick. I called Teraflex, and they claimed they had never heard of this issue. When I asked the guy to check his stock, he admitted it was an issue after he investigated, but had no suggestion for a fix. I ended up making my own retaining bracket that solved the problem.