eaglescout526

I need your help! It came to me that should compile a thread of 2.5L specific DIY stuff and I just finished perusing through the DIY and found a couple I’d like to see if anyone did or can update with pictures. The two in question: There might be another aluminum cover DIY but I couldn’t find it. I plan to try to make a couple more at some point like TPS adjustment and better understanding of the vacuum for 87-90 years. Your help will be greatly appreciated as one is pretty unique and not done commonly and the other seems to be common enough to warrant some updating.

REM should provide some insight as well.

Sweet glad ya found it! As far as the full cluster, one little thing I’ve noticed with the tach is it bounces when cranking. That’s how I’ve been able to determine if it’s something in ignition. If that bounces, you should be good in terms of the ignition system. Like I’ve had a couple CPS issues and when the tach doesnt move, I unplug and plug it back in and it’ll fire right up.

Huh. How interesting. Ok it’s resetting. Do we know if it has been adjusted at some point in its life? I’m almost wonder if it’s working but it’s not “working” like yeah it moves and makes sound but is it opening to the correct position for next start up kind of working. Just a thought. Does it have a full cluster?

Huh. Interesting. Can’t say I’ve run into that issue where at least the CPS doesn’t solve such an issue. I’m wondering if the ISA isn’t operating properly.

The ground for the sensors and ECU ground out at the dipstick mount stud or bolt. Hopefully we can eliminate electrical being an issue before we look to mechanical. Part of me thinks headgasket is failing as I had similar symptoms but let’s check the free and less labor intensive stuff first.

How are your grounds? Start with the basics.

87-90 used the same units for either engine except for the 16 gallon tank which has a smaller float arm. Just make sure you get the right capacity and you’ll be good to go. Fuel pump doesn’t matter either as the regulator at the TBI will handle the pressure. Now the only model year that’s special is 86. But literally the only difference is the input and output tubes on the unit at straight outward like the XJ.

It’s something that showed up the last time CC was updated. I think it’s need to have. It usually shows up on the last page.

Should be able to swap them no problem at all and should rear just fine. I did a sending unit swap on my 84 and it’s fine. Currently inside is an 87-90 sending unit and I do have an 86 specific sending unit that I was running but ran into some issues like the potentiometer having a break and the pump dying on me. But I’ll swap that back in in the future. Now 87-90 units AMC got smart and made them all interchangeable between the engines and tanks depending on the capacity. So you’ll be fine to run the later sending unit and pump, the pressure regulator on the TBI will handle the rest for ya. Hang on to that TBI sending unit since it is unique to that year

Don’t worry I’ll help get ya squared away and running efficiently.

Oh boy. Those pictures just turned into the longer I look at it the worse it gets. The rear hose on the valve cover should go to the base of the throttle body in the bigger port. We’ve got some work to do.

The connector is for your power steering pressure switch. In 87 AMC changed the TB base to have only two ports available. Those two “open” ports are actually blocked off by the casting. The final picture should have 3 lines going places. One from the map sensor to the manifold one should be from the EGR switch to the EGR I’ll have to snap some pics of mine and where they come from and to where they go. But those two I listed are for sure.

Exactly! I can’t tell ya how long and hard I thought about what changes had happened since I had it emissions tested and then I thought about timing cause I re did the timing chain and tuned it to fire too late when I thought it was proper. But hey! It was a great learning experience for me from the age of carbureted cars.

Nope! Turns out the timing was the problem. It was too retarded and causing it to overheat.

2.5L auto!?!? Holy crap someone just dumped a rare truck.

Ok I thought so. Couldn’t remember if those were made or not. I know the fender liners are all over the place.

Is the rubber front portion made still?

“If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong” -Low Buck Garage.

Ok whew. So it seems like the TPS is working or at least sweeping voltages right. Definitely gonna have to do the adjustment for that.

I really enjoyed seeing my fleet lined up and making the most 80’s lot before the AMC show. I also picked up some eagle literature from the show too. Meanwhile I felt like I was fighting a bucket of issues. Mostly overheating. Started with the thermostat Ran evaporust through the block. Came out pretty damn dark Then replaced the heater control valve. Then the lower radiator hose and all no dice. Not a lot of change. Then I found the fan clutch wasn’t really releasing turns out that was helping keep it cool before it overheats. So that got replaced along with the fan with a 7 blade from a 2.8L XJ. Which I also learned is a little smaller in size when compared to the 5 blade of the XJ and the 5 blade of the eagle The eagle is the bigger fan. Learned alot of fan science too while figuring out the overheating. But it turns out it was the timing. After lots of thinking as to what it was, I thought back to timing as it cooled properly prior to me changing the timing set. It was too retarded in the timing to keep cool and so I dialed it back to where it needed to and all has been good and cool! Plus replaced a few parts along the way for good measure. Now I should be able to charge the AC and have a comfy AMC to drive in the summer or if the wife would like to drive it too. Now for a new tie rod and a suspension rebuild in the future.

The audacity!

That is the best part about you logging this car. Great reference for what feels like my basket case despite being mostly untouched.

Wait? 12v at the TPS? Are you testing it plugged into 12v supply or are you testing it in the MJ still connected to the ECU? Not much to really test on the fuel pump. Other than yank it out and run it for a bit and see if it keeps pumping but that probably won’t show real world issue.

I hate being broke enough to not work on mine but being driven to want to work on it when I see your dads.