eaglescout526

Happy build day Chunk!

Yeah please keep us informed. This is good info right here that I don’t think many people talk about when doing the swap.

Huh. How neat. Will you be able to move the mount forward?

Yeah you need ten. When I did this I ordered new bolts fro ARP I think. Man it was many years ago. If your head bolts come out in hood rust free shape, don’t hesitate to reuse them. If they come out questionable like how bolt 7 probably will because it sits in the water jacket, then I’d get new ones. As far as the two measurements go for 8 and 9, im not sure. You’d have to see what comes out of your head when you do the gasket. But if I recall when I did mine, there supposed to be 3 of the studed bolt. You can always look at what’s on now. Maybe try searching “Jeep 2.5L head bolts” and see what pops up. Pretty sure the bolts went to a 12 point bolt head later on like in the HO years but there should be the hex head too.

Lol! Ya got me.

I think Carter and I are the only ones that can throw off most. Haha.

I know exactly what you’re going through. My eagle is doing the same damn thing. I got the overheating issue solved before charging the AC and now I’m back to over heating again. Though my issue is timing related but I did find something interesting with a spark plug. Heres a story and what I would do. ok two stories. my MJ had a bad headgasket and I drove around like that for a while. Not good for it but I couldn’t afford to bring her down until I had free time. Anyways I drove her around with coolant turning brown and constantly bubbling and boiling until I solved that. The eagle had a bad head gasket and I drove it home like that the first night and I absolutely should not have at all. I dumped evaporusts thermocure in it to help clean out the system and it ended up making the headgasket worse in condition to where I was forced to change it which isn’t a bad thing but the problem became more obvious when I couldn’t drive 3 miles without it overheating. Any car will overheat when climbing hills, just a fact. Course it all also depends on the condition of everything. What I would do first before new hoses and such flush the block, manifold and core separate from each other. Then next is run the big 132oz bottle of evaporust through the cooling system. Let it break up any gunk and remove rust deposits in the block. That way you’ll have the peace of mind knowing the block, radiator, heater core and manifold are clean and clear. Then if the condition of the hoses are crap then replace them. If none of that then I’d move to the expensive stuff like a clutch and radiator

The fact you drove an eagle to school while all your classmates had no idea you were driving something more unique and rare than daddy’s Porsche or Ferrari. Sure the MJ is like that but it’s got the front end of a common place XJ.

92 Accord. Was in the family since new until I destroyed a Ford Taurus with it. Was a good car...Oh well upgraded to an MJ shortly after.

Ahh the Dana cruise control. As long as all else works, the module can be blamed easier than the Renix ECU. I think I’ve got a pile of these back when I was making full kits for folks

Yeah they very well could have something else going on which is probably why they swapped over. But I don’t know many 2.5L owners who swapped to electric. Good luck!!

Makes sense. I went down this rabbit hole and I couldn’t find one that fits. Now if you want you cut out the middle support of the front radiator support you could squeeze in a fan. But I just couldn’t find a fan skinny enough to do what I want. And jamming a mechanical and an electrical together would be quite the sight and a challenge. Maybe what I would do is swap to an e fan and see how you like it. Supposedly 90’s Taurus fits and has two speeds and moves air pretty damn good. I could be wrong on this. I remember someone somewhere did this. Anyways with that you’ll free up HP be doing away with the mechanical. But mechanical is also reliable. For me I was only going to do such to help with the cooling capacity of the 134 that r already doesn’t get with the R12 style condenser. But given the tight spaces, I couldn’t bear to cut or jam it in. The 2.5 runs cool enough but if it ends up overheating, other issues probably are present.

The mechanical fan does pretty good with keeping both radiator and AC cool. I contemplated the same for the summers but there’s just no way to have a pusher electric and a mechanical puller and the only other way would be 4.0 radiator but that’s too much cooling for the 2.5L.

@carolinajeepman

I feel like the metric ton nameplate was rare then as it is now. The metric ton was also denoted as the big ton with a sticker in the rear window. I believe those are reproduced at boxy jeep. I know someone on here was also 3D printing nameplates.

You’ll get good cooling out of 134a but nothing like modern cars that run it. The problem with 134 is it needs a big cooling surface to effectively work and cool properly. But at the back of the air box from the middle vent I’ll see temps in the 30’s. But once it comes out of the vent it’s probably closer to 40. Overall I’m happy with the performance as my MJ never had AC from the factory so anything is better than 110* out here. But it sounds like to me when it was converted, the proper o-rings weren’t used. Change all those out, probably the expansion valve too if that’s still rated for R12. Usually they are stamped with 134 on the block. And replace the schrader valves in the service ports while you’re at it so that way if you have a leak, it won’t be from degraded valves at the service port. I’ve gotten to the point now where I’m not afraid to service my own AC systems. Oh also in case you don’t know, 134a becomes acidic when in contact with moisture which will result in tt eating away at internal components. If you plan to do this all yourself make sure the dryer is replaced as well and that the humidity is low or very dry. Course don’t charge a system until you know it can hold good vacuum.

The 2.5L harness is pretty standalone. You will need only one wire and that’s the power wire to the fuel pump on the sending unit. And that wire needs to go from the fuel pump relay all the way to the back. I converted my 84 XJ to the Renix TBI and it’s pretty straight forward.

I may have a NOS reservoir looking for a new home if you can’t locate a reservoir or if you decide to go the 4.0L pump route.

Yes. Yes it does.

Headlight relays are an absolute must!

Im not proud of this fix but here’s the wire. I tested it and had to pull it back apart and taped the wire down to prevent it from moving out of the spot and jammed the terminal under the door cable. But it works and should for a while.

We have AC!!! I hate the rudimentary system AMC used. Especially the micro switch. Smart but dumb. Relay would’ve been better. But I jammed a piece of wire in between the brass that lost tension and the plastic and it operates like it should.

How did I miss this update? How interesting! Wonder if I made a similar mistake on my XJ and didn’t realize it. Could be why I smell and see excess gas down the TB. Huh. Now I’m gonna have to investigate it.

Oh hell in a hand basket. Ok I think this is manufacturer based. I once bought new ones for a member on here and one of the sides was orange. Like original orange. And the other was a brighter orange but not much brighter. As far as I recall, you can still get OEM but you might experience the same discrepancy. There’s probably some on eBay too. though you are on to something cause I’ve seen the HO years have a bit brighter yellow color for the markers but those new ones I mentioned were more orange. So it could be sun fading that we’ve seen. Part numbers are 56000110 and 111 if you want to look on eBay for orange ones.

No. But I got it!! when I was vacuuming down the system,‘I heard a thunk and then the gauge jumped and went back down. After trying to charge it. I did some thinking. I took the hose off on the suction side, vacuumed down the high side and heard suction. Ok expansion valve is good. Took off the valve from the compressor. Clogged. Ok. Took the adaptor off and found an o-ring had been sucked up. Wonder where that came from. Anyways I vacuumed down the system, made sure it held for a few minutes then charged it. And it did great. But now I gotta find where it’s not signaling the compressor to engage. I had to manually jump the compressor to get it to charge and man does it blow cold.