eaglescout526

Alright like the title says I have been battling this problem since I got LR. I have replaced the vents on top, the sending unit O-ring and an emissions hose. I have no idea what else to loom at or replace. I have even blown out the lines that go to the vents on top of the tank and the gas still over flows. Any suggestions? I vaguely recall someone blaming GM on this issue but don't remember.

Nice score! Engine bay needs some attention. Have you posted her up in the VIN registry yet?

Take the fuse block apart and replace the clips. Or do what I did until I have a second car and put aluminum foil on one of the fuse prongs and set it in the spot and see if it makes better contact.

Yes. The XJ and MJ share the same bushings. Don't know why AMC has two different numbers unless they had it like that for truck suspension reasons. Don't know the MOOG numbers.

I know on the manual trans that's where the lights run into and I have popped that fuse several times before finding a bare wire touching the exhaust pipe.

Yes the age of damper and the rubber separating would be the cause. I believe the stout on the damper is longer which requires the slinger to go away.

I know this: So if you go OEM this will be your issue. Try to go with the original part number 33002920 in the aftermarket if you don't want to replace the slinger. I've done mine on my 2.5L a couple times. You will need a balancer remover and installer. They say to remove the radiator for more clearance on the puller and installer which is probably more true for the 4.0L than the 2.5L. Basically you will need as much clearance as possible to remove and install a new one.

Does your fuse box have a 7.5amp fuse under the label of trans?

Well I checked Chrysler for an overhaul and rebuild kit and all they show for the AW4 is service component parts. So there are no kits on Chryslers end. Thought I would check for ya.

Woohooo! I saw that. Totally didn't think about tilt column owners. That's probably where it is hard to snake that wire down.

Ah. Hmm, I actually have no idea then. I know the button just needs ground out to the center of the column to sound the horns. There is already power going to them, just pushing the button completes the horn relay circuit to switch power to the horns.

Lol no worries. There’s been a couple people wanting to add cruise and your write up is really good and helpful. And it sat for a year and half so I thought I’d help you out with it and bring it back up to the top. Also I wasn’t sure if you had finished your install or not.

I want to finish this and it deserves to be finished. Installing the stalk is really easy. Remove your old stalk by simply pulling it out. Then take the cruise stalk and feed the wire down the column. I didn't have any issues doing such nor did it get caught up anywhere but you could tie a string to it and feed the string down the column to help pull the wire through. Then push the stalk into the turn signal switch and your stalk is installed. Installing the servo: There are two different servos. 84-87? This servo is grounded out at the bracket which is really smart and doesn't require an extra wire to be sourced in the engine harness. 87-90. This servo has an external ground wire that is located with the servo and its partner is on the main engine harness(pictured above). Take the servo and it should have a mounting stud that you feed into the bracket and thread a nut on to hold it in place. Servo should only go on one way due to the stud and screw that holds the base of the servo on. 84-early 87 servo owners should note that if you grabbed the thicker bracket that mounts on the passenger side fender/wheel well that mounting this one on the firewall will be a challenge as you will have to trim the bracket up so that way the servo won't prevent you from closing the hood. 2.5L owners should be able to mount this bracket with no trimming of the bracket on the fender wall like I did. 4.0L owners have their coolant bottle in the way at that location so you guys might have to get creative or make your own bracket. Important note! If you snag a set up from a 2.8L(generally where the thicker bracket comes from) you might be SOL. I got really really lucky that a dealer had a NOS 2.5L throttle cable and didn't have to figure out how to use the cable that comes with the 2.8L set up so it is imperative to find the 4.0L set ups unless you know where to source a long enough cable with the right hook/clip on it for the throttle linkage. Clutch/brake disconnect/vacuum dump valve. Now there are two styles of the harness when pulling from a junk yard. There is a auto and a manual version. The one Blaine has in this post is a manual version with the dump valve/switch combo. Autos have a clutch switch block plug that bypasses having said switch which is fine, one less thing to get into place when installing. I have an auto set up on mine meaning the clutch switch is bypassed with the plug and only the vacuum dump valve is mounted on the brake pedal like such: This eliminates trying to find or make a bracket for the clutch switch to go on top of the clutch pedal as the valve will open and release all vacuum in the system and the brake switch will shut off the current cruise operation until you push the resume button. So regardless of your trucks trans set up, you can use either auto or manual cruise harness on a manual drive truck. Once the servo, stalk and dump valve are installed, get everything plugged in and ready to go cruise and make some adjustments to the actuator. I will go find the picture I took from the adjustment procedure from the FSM The document included should help with diagnosing issues 1988 Cherokee FSM-cruise control system.pdf

Someday the stars will align for ya. Thank you for that, it’s an obsession. Like reading Wikipedia on one topic and next thing you know you’re reading about quantum theory. Anyways here’s the link, I think I’ll go finish it today for any future members who look to add cruise control.

There is a write up but it’s half a write up. It’s enough to get one started. I probably should go finish that write up just so it’s complete but I didn’t start that one. But adding cruise for Renix is involved and requires a few components more than HO, as follows: wiring harness, brake switch, stalk, computer or actuator, vacuum harness, vacuum canister, speed sensor, servo, cruise speedo cable, servo throttle cable, vacuum dump valve with bracket(should come with the harness) and servo bracket. That should be everything. You don’t need to seek a manual or auto specific set up as both will work in either case. Its a chore to add cruise but it’s nice to have and worth the time. And snaking the stalk wire down the column was really easy, I had no trouble doing it the first time.

Three spoke "sport" or the two spoke "wagon" steering wheel?

Which wire? The horn wiring goes through the whole turn signal switch assembly.

HAHAHAHAHA. That was one of the first things I ever tested on my truck and wondered what it was for and I plugged it into the coil and it powered everything. That's funny. Glad it was that easy. But at least its not anything incredibly screwed up to where wiring has to be replaced.

Wow. The gigantic speaker grills are really ugly.

*D1 TRIM STYLE D1 - CLOTH BENCH -H9 162 Zone 62-Houston 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail 5AL Low Series Tracking APA Monotone Paint BAY 105 Amp Alternator BCY BATTERY, 58-475 CC BGA Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes BJA STD DUTY FRT DISC BRAKES BKP 10x2.5 Rear Drum Brakes CBA Straight Back Bench Seat CKA Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CSR Passenger Assist Handles DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions DGS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission DHA Lock-Up Torque Converter DHT Elec,Shift-on-the-Fly,P/Time T/Case DMD 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio DRJ 175MM Rear Axle EAA All Engines EAF ALL FUEL INJECTED ENGINES-GAS ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC Tinted Glass Windows GBB Tinted Windshield Glass GCB Front Door Tinted Glass GEH Fixed Door Vent Glass GNA Rear View Day/Night Mirror GRV Left Manual Mirror GUA Open HAA Air Conditioning JAA Instrument Panel JAZ DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JBF Instrument Panel Black Bezel JCA 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JJA Cigar Lighter JKB MOPAR Hood Lock K3Z STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KDD LAF Seat Belt Alert-Driver Seat only LBC Glove Box Lamp LCJ DOME/READING LAMP B-PILLAR LMA Halogen Headlamps MB1 Black Front Bumper MDA Front License Plate Bracket MFF Black Grille MHB Bright Windshield Moldings MMC Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMG Belt Moldings MMJ DRIP TROUGH MLDG - TYPE I NAA Federal Emissions NBA LIGHT DUTY CYCLE NBK EVAP Control System NDA Catalytic Converter NF2 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank PX6 CLASSIC BLACK CLR CT PRIMARY PAINT - FX6 QX6 CLASSIC BLACK C CT SECONDARY PAINT - FX6 RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAC AM MTR Radio RCA 19 SPKRS SRT High Perf Audio SBA Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCB Perforated Steering Whl w/Red Stitch SFA Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGA Rear Shock Absorbers TAA All Tires TAD HIGHWAY TREAD TBB Full Size Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TNC P195/65R15 BSW AS Touring Tires WJK 15X6.0 Styled Steel Wheels WMC Bright Wheel Trim Rings XBS Pickup Box XFA -35F Protection Anti-Freeze YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications YGB 1 Additional Gallons of Gas YGG 9 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01 Rear Spring Group I Z1A GVW/Payload Rating Z59 Left Front Spring Group Ix Z78 Right Front Spring Group VIII Build date 1/3/89 Body code TL61

*X8 SEATS - CLOTH LOW-BACK BUCKET -SA Charcoal 3LY ADA LIGHT PACKAGE ADL PACKAGE - 4X4 PROTECTION AGJ Driver Assistance Group AHL HEAVY DUTY INSUL PACKAGE AHY Hybrid Electric Vehicle 15 KW Group APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE AWH POWER EQUIPMENT GROUP BCQ Battery - 750 Amp Maintenance Free CAC BUCKET SEAT - LO BK CGW Air Bags - Front, Next Generation** CLE ACCESSORY FLOOR MAT - FRONT &&&&&&&& REAR CUF FULL LENGTH FRONT CONSOLE DGQ TRANSMISSION-5SPD AUTOMATIC 5-45RFE DTA ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GEC Window - Left Side, Front, Sliding GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach JGB Clock - Digital JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP K60 BODY SIDE MOLDINGS - VINYL LDA UNDERHOOD COMPT LAMP LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS LPE EXTERIOR CARGO LIGHT MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NHB HVY.DTY/AUX TRANS OIL COOLER NHM AUTO SPEED CONTROL NHQ Transmission Heater NMB ENGINE COOLING - STANDARD DUTY PQ9 QQ9 RAF Radio - AM/FM Cassette SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN TBB CONVENTIONAL SPARE TIRE WJD WHEELS - 15 X 7.0 STYLED STEEL Build date 4/7/88 Body code JM61

Well I got the old O2 out and it looked like a spark plug running lean. can't say I have seen that before on an O2

Three

Neat! I pulled what was from the catalog when I first started this. I didn't touch 84 and 85 because those aren't MJ years and I wanted to do the colors of the MJ years and not all years. But yes there's some odd colors for the first two years.

If its not a well maintained system it could. That being said I just got a NOS O2 to replace the NTK sensor(that is failing) in mine that has only been installed for 2 years and with less mileage on it.