eaglescout526

Correct. None left anywhere. Model years:1986-1991. Used in 91-92 BB body Chrysler cars. Premier or Monaco

Nice! I’m genuinely curious. Hell some body shops might have NOS or even used old parts laying around. I only say this because the body shop through my work has some old parts and the one I can remember right now is an old Ford tailgate.

Good call

Make sure they don’t try to con you into an 8 slot. But if they do have some NOS I might have to make a call too lol.

Somewhere lol. Give a few phone calls to those “new” ones. I am curious.

It’s like the 21 slot and it’s header panel.

*A6 Seats - Vinyl High Back Bucket -Y1 AHY APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE BCQ Battery - 750 Amp Maintenance Free CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ DGW Transmission - 4-Spd. Automatic DMR 3.55Axle Ratio DSA LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GPB DUAL - O/S MIRR PKG - LOW MOUNT - CHROME HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NFA TANK - 23 GAL FUEL NHB HVY DTY/AUX TRANS OIL COOLER NHM AUTO SPEED CONTROL NMB ENGINE COOLING - STANDARD DUTY PE4 Colorado Red QE4 Colorado Red RAF Radio - AM/FM Cassette SBA POWER STEERING TBB CONVENTIONAL SPARE TIRE TBL TIRE CARRIER - INSIDE WJD WHEELS - 15 X 7.0 STYLED STEEL Z1B GVW/PAYLOAD RATING Build date 5/27/87 Body code JL62

The code in the VIN itself would tell us if it is a MT or not.

Are you after one? No dealer has them I can tell ya that much.

My 88 MJ My 84 XJ 70-91 SJ Any J-truck 57 T-bird 68-70 AMX Any Pacer except the wagon 80-87 Eagle Jaguar E-type or A Datsun 240Z with the 280Z 5 speed I think thats it.

Is it not behind the seat?

I have not gone and looked for it yet, if you can get yours down and out faster than me, by all means go ahead and shoot 89 a PM.

I like how his spare has never ever seen the road.

Glad to hear that(well read)! I thought I had remembered reading about the 4.0 in the FSM277 one day.

Lol wasnt that big of a deal. Just giving ya a hard time.

Woah we can't leave JMO hanging like that lol. But JMO is usually more busy than you or I.

I am surprised you werent already doing this to shorten your list. You would probably have less stress if you knocked out the easy jobs on one day and came back to a more demanding job the next.

Welcome to the colorful history of Renix, AMC, Jeep and Renault. Theres alot to learn and alot of oddities youll find in an MJ.

Actually only 84-90 has the pins on the front header panel. 91-01 did just stick ons.

I can’t imagine the three I have are HO but to be fair, whom I got them from couldn’t remember because he pulled them sooo long ago so I’ll check the ohms. I compared them all to a NOS 23gal SU I had and they all still looked them same in terms of angle and length so I’m not exactly sure. I don’t want to hang on to these if someone needs one but I also don’t want to sell the wrong one to someone.

Any other key identifiers? I only ask because they all measure the same and one has writing on it denoting from a 90 LWB but that doesnt help by much. Maybe an Ωhm test even though all Renix SU's are 0-88. Maybe I could plug them in and see which ones will read past full and at full.

Will do, I will got take a look for it.

Engine should start up with no problem now!

So little part history here: AMC had one universal kit you could buy from the dealer. What sets apart the standard and auto version of the CC system is a vacuum switch/dump valve. The switch would mount above the clutch pedal so that way when you would depress the clutch, the system would turn off momentarily until you released the clutch. These switches are very hard to find, let alone with the bracket too. The break pedal also had a dump valve that was similar to the GM switches except it didnt plug into anything but the hose that went to the servo Auto version used just a dump valve that looked very similar in shape and function to the clutch switch except all it did was release the vacuum from the system when the brake pedal was depressed and you would have the slide the control switch to "resume" on the stalk to resume using CC. The clutch switch that was used is blocked off at the plug via a bypass which is a metal prong bent into a U shape to connect to the other side of the plug. That being said, I installed an auto cruise set up and it works fine, you just don't get the clutch switch but will get a dump valve and have to be careful not to engage the clutch while CC is operating otherwise the system will think its losing speed to say an incline and will try to compensate and rev the engine until it gets back to that speed. Since you are moving away from auto to manual, you will just need to keep this warning in mind while driving. But otherwise it is completely useable with either set up. Let me know if you need help getting CC going.

No problem. Now I know you said the tank has seen better days but just to be on the safe side, I would do a little electrical diag and make sure all the wiring and what not is in fine shape. Will the engine fire if you poor fuel down the TB?