eaglescout526

I shouldve said, "speaking from experience?" haha all good, do appreciate the concern. I am gonna try to get the prototype harness started this weekend.

I’ve seen the sticker and nameplate on all the model years except 86 for the sticker.

Yes they are. Course I do like to give the benefit of the doubt to members on here with this type of connection.

*D1 TRIM STYLE D1 - CLOTH BENCH -SA Charcoal 161 Zone 61-Atlanta 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail 5AL APA MONOTONE PAINT BAY 105 AMP ALTERNATOR BCY BATTERY, 58-475 CC BGA POWER FRONT DISC/REAR DRUM BRAKES BJA STD DUTY FRT DISC BRAKES BKP 10X2.5 REAR DRUM BRAKES CBA STRAIGHT BACK BENCH SEAT CKJ BLACK VINYL FLOOR COVERING CSR PASSENGER ASSIST HANDLES DGB ALL 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS DGS 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC AW4 TRANSMISSION DHA LOCK-UP TORQUE CONVERTER DHT SHIFT-ON-THE-FLY,P/TIME T/CASE DMD 3.55 REAR AXLE RATIO DRJ DANA 35 REAR AXLE EAA ALL ENGINES EAF ALL FUEL INJECTED ENGINES-GAS ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC TINTED GLASS WINDOWS GBB TINTED WINDSHIELD GLASS GCB FRONT DOOR TINTED GLASS GEH FIXED DOOR VENT GLASS GNA REAR VIEW DAY/NIGHT MIRROR GRV LEFT MANUAL MIRROR GUA OPEN HAA AIR CONDITIONING JAA INSTRUMENT PANEL JAZ DO NOT USE - SEE JP, KA CLASSES JBF INSTRUMENT PANEL BLACK BEZEL JCA 85 MPH PRIMARY SPEEDOMETER JKB K3Z STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KWX LAF SEAT BELT ALERT-DRIVER SEAT ONLY LBC GLOVE BOX LAMP LCJ DOME/READING LAMP B-PILLAR LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MB1 Black Front Bumper MFF Black Grille MHB Bright Windshield Moldings MMC MMG Belt Moldings MMJ DRIP TROUGH MLDG - TYPE I NAA Federal Emissions NBA LIGHT DUTY CYCLE NBK EVAP Control System NDA Catalytic Converter NF5 Fuel Tank - 23 Gallon PE4 COLORADO RED PRIMARY PAINT - HE4 QE4 COLORADO RED SECONDARY PAINT - HE4 RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAC AM MTR Radio RCA Audio SBA Power Steering SCB Steering Whl SFA Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGA Rear Shock Absorbers TAA All Tires TBC Compact Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TNC P195/65R15 BSW AS Touring Tires WJK 15X6.0 Styled Steel Wheels XBS Pickup Box XFA -35F Protection Anti-Freeze YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications YEP Manuf Statement of Origin YGB 1 Additional Gallons of Gas YGG 9 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01 Rear Spring Group I Z1A GVW/Payload Rating Z59 Left Front Spring Group Ix Z79 Right Front Spring Group IX Build date 10/30/88 Body code TL62 Sold by AKINS JEEP-EAGLE, ATHENS GA

Hahahaha you SOB.

Would be a nice sticker to have reproduced. I’d put it on both my Jeeps.

Catalog shows the same part number for the XJ and MJ along with U.S. being on the sticker.

Fair enough. Proceed.

What about doing the later XJ style that’s behind the fender panel?

I’ve been meaning to try to get all my books digitized for all of us.

Last waggy turn signal lens in the dealer network.

Ummmmm well if you find a GM with power windows, snag them. Chances are AMC probably used them.

Sounds like it to me. I found out there’s two styles of window motors but looks like both are riveted in place. You might be able to service them pretty easy be removing the assemblies and taking the motors off seeing how you said it was from a Michigan MJ and judging by that lock actuator, I’d imagine the window regulators are just as bad. VIO makes me think vehicle in operation but that’s probably not correct.

As for the window motors, I am unsure. You can always lubricate the snake that’s inside the tube to help with travel. I can take a look at one of my power window motors and see if there serviceable but they may not be. I’d imagine poor ground and lack of power to the window would cause it to barely operate. Chrysler moved to a later set up to where the windows used a relay as did the power locks that guarantees 12v all the time at the motors to operate. Renix, not so much. @Minuit could always chime in as he’s done more research on this and I only have learned from him as how to improve the Renix set up.

7ft of wire. Good amount, course there probably is a few splices in there that will give me some wiggle room. I just realized, doing the license plate lamp plug with the center plug will be a challenge that might have to be one of those "you need to reuse this from your old herness" deal.

They can be had new and honestly they are very serviceable. If you remove the cylinder housing on the actuator, inside is a motor that basically rotated when power and ground is put to it. Looks like that can use a bath for cleaning. I’d suggest cleaning it up and servicing it first before going aftermarket since we all know and agree aftermarket is hit or miss. Orrrrr find a genuine GM one as those are from a GM car of the same time period. Pretty sure my trans am has the same ones that I need to service.

When the switches are in resting position they should have power on one prong and ground on another. When the switch is moved up or down, it sends power and ground to what ever it is your using. If you look on the back of the switch plane, you’ll see one of the prongs shares the same connection, that should be the ground prong.

I’ll have to look at the manual when I get home but I’m pretty sure the black wire is the ground for the whole thing, locks and windows. The speaker wire inside is only two wires to the speaker(obviously), I just don’t want ya to ground the speakers and the doors together and risk harming your radio set up.

You’ll need a really good ground and not the speaker ground. You will probably blow out your whole sound system if you do that as that will probably tax the ground for that. Put some motor oil on the lock actuators and they should move up and down pretty easy with the Jeep on or off. Power windows will operate much better with the Jeep on as well. You might need to do relays for the power windows as well.

Nooooo. Red is power with the breaker. That pink i don't know what it is for. That’s probably why there aren’t working. If I recall the ground for a full power door set up is a small place wire that grounds out in the door to where ever you like or on the speaker but I didn’t see it officially attached there when I pulled a full door harness. No it won’t ground out with the speakers. That’s separate ground on its own. There should be a ground wire with your harness tucked away.

Where is the ground?

It’s best to find OEM. Aftermarket for our mirrors are a joke. I don't know if they were made out of metal or a really good plastic back in the day but if you held an aftermarket in one hand and a genuine one in the other, you’ll side with the genuine easy. And as said above the holes aren’t tapped for the screws which really messes with getting them good and tight on the door.

You need the sensor not sender.

Yeah I’m creating one that will be straight plug and play for those who don’t want to cut up their lamp sockets.

I plan to make a prototype this weekend. If anyone has a tail lamp harness already out of an MJ, could pics and measurements be taken of it?