eaglescout526

I was gonna attempt this with actual door card material. My hold up was tracing the original card right and finding the right staples. But that’s another way to fix the soggy door issue.

I tried this. never got mine to fit in any way shape or form. Even ordered genuine too and ended up destroying it. Went the 97-01 route and that just doesnt fit, Chrysler made it an oval for some reason.

Here’s a bomb. Irreplaceable cab boot that’s screwed to the floor. But the top one can be had.

Under the shift boot is a plastic retainer that holds the boot in place. Put one hand on the front of the shift boot(closest to the ash tray) and dig your fingers in the crack between the console and boot and push inward and lift up to release the retainer from the console. Then you should be able to remove the retainer from the boot and remove the boot separately.

Now this I did not know.

Having fun with @SoCalJeepComanche's sticker reproductions One for the scannable barcode on my radiator crossmember, And the Olympic sticker While showing off the 50th anniversary decal. Also put the 50th and Olympic on Chunk as well.

Cruise control and the vents for the HVAC settings.

Thanks fiat. I responded late last night and didnt feel like going and getting one of the lenses to get a pic haha.

On the lens of the OEM style, there’s a protruding object on the underside of the lens that has a metal ring on it. When moved up or down it should engage the light in either permanent on or switched on by the door switches(which probably needs to be cleaned too)

Went to the cruise in. Little while later this gem showed up and had to park next to it

Supposedly the 2.5L carb had this as an option of the sorts according to the parts catalog.

Pretty much. Not having much luck finding anything out there, even other vehicles. It looks pretty much like the channel/belt/guide/weatherstrip for the window that goes up and down. But just a 1/4” shorter in height putting the two together with the side that goes into the divider bar flat on the floor

So it looks like this piece here that looks like the regular belt guides for the front and rear Old one is a bit smaller in terms of height and fitting in the divider bar. As seen here I replaced the one on the passenger side and it looks goofy having one of the other regular belts in it’s place Currently working with a glass shop to see if they might be able to locate something as a replacement but apparently Chrysler and AMC(probably but I have my doubts)serviced both the glass and belt together despite being separable and not in a traditional frame.

And you most likely won’t. OEM would be made be Siemens if you can find one of those. Or if you have a vintage parts log in

Is it still a hush hush thing? That’s good I guess. Since I work in parts at a dealer I am able to look at part numbers and see what’s out there. And that’s how I’ve been able to run the VINs too

If I recall, .2VAC is the absolute bare minimum that a Renix engine will run with. But even aftermarket will run at that bare minimum out of the box. There’s still some OEM ones left. If they didn’t cost me a hand I’d order all that’s left and get them out and into hands of folks who need them.

Yes.

No. It should look like the pin next to it.

I mean to each company is their own way. I can see it being a benefit as the fuel would have better atomization in the chamber if there was no coolant running through it to keep it the same temp as the engine, but it is also aluminum. I feel that the winter it wouldnt struggle that much as long as you have the preheater tube set up and it would help there but other wise winter wouldnt be much different even if coolant was flowing through it.

I’ll take the fronts please haha. That’s a commanding price for a full set that’s not new.

I mean the fuel will probably evaporate too fast from the heated manifold that’s not as cool as the engine but you can give it a shot as I have never heard of anyone doin this to a Renix set up.

Fantastic. If I recall they should be just standard bullet connectors that was used for a long while.

It should be just a really tough epoxy

That could be a warranty button. My heads on my MJ and T/A have buttons like that that says “warranty do not remove”. That could just be an older one. And that may not be an HO block with the AMC numbers being there.

I’ll snap a pic when I get home.