boxyjeep

I swapped in a 91+ column with the newer "Chrysler" key that matches the newer door keys. Sorry, should have mentioned that. To add to this, you could likely remove the 6th tumbler from your ignition cylinder to match your door cylinders.

I got a bunch of cylinders from the junkyard and am going to key them all to match my ignition cylinder. Re-keying shouldn't be too tough.

I'm actually in the process of doing this myself on my '88 Comanche and using a fuse box/PDC from an early Grand Cherokee. There's a lot of detractors here, unsurprisingly, but this will be worthwhile when I'm finished. I've been able to reduce the harness down significantly and re-route most of it along the firewall (and shorten wires where possible). By doing this I've eliminated the harness that runs around the front cross member, the fusible links, all the weird connectors on the passenger side, the crappy relay bracket, etc. I'll be using fuses for all powered relays, as well as the always-hot circuits and downstream components. One issue with the stock Renix wiring is the huge amount of splices that are wrapped with duct tape. I'll be eliminating most of these and re-routing individual components back to individual fuses. Also, replacing any wiring with appropriately-gauged wire. Here is a write-up for someone else that did this: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-88-comanche-886068/index27.html I'll be sure to add some pictures once my project is done.

Take a look at the other spots that typically have the VIN. There should be a tag under the hood, as well as the last 6 digits on the front of the front crossmember.

New cable is $20. Just get it and replace it. Be prepared--it's a b*@ch to swap it out.

That's a pretty good price if it includes everything pictured. Most of those seals are $20+ each on other sites.

I spent some time testing and debugging this and don't remember exactly how or why, but this works well. There are two wires that go to the overhead module that have a constant 12v current, except for when lock/unlock is triggered. Jumping those two gives power to the appropriate wire at the right time.

1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer 4.0L AW4 NP231 D30 D44 SWB Build date: (Need to check this) Current Location: Orange County, CA, USA Status: Still registered and on-road. Bought in July 2018 in Southern CA. Lived it's life as a farm truck. No rust, but sat outside in the sun and got burnt/sandblasted by dust it's whole life. Currently being restored and upgraded. Expect to be "done" by end of 2020 2021 2022. Notes: D44 Trac-loc rear, engine block heater, full skid package (minus front skid) plus tow hooks. Dark blue exterior (super patina'ed now), darker blue interior w/ bench seat. Originally column shift. Current owner: Me Now (July 2022): When purchased in 2018: Build thread:

Ha! It's a pain for sure. I had a few wires in the door harnesses that had broken apart too. That was fun to troubleshoot since I thought it was an issue with my patching. The diagram above is really good--just make the one change mentioned.

From my understanding black steering wheels are impossible to come by.

I'm blown away at how clean this thing is. Incredible.

The Keyless Entry module had a few wires for lock/unlock. I just tapped those into the lock/unlock signal wires (OR/VT and PK/VT) in the harness. Since it's a ground trigger, no relays were needed.

Got the door lock actuators, but they weren't actually the issue. Had to "adjust" the wiring and connector for the door locks a bit and now all is well. Was able to even wire up my remote start/keyless entry to the door successfully.

Dug into this a bit more and believe the issue was bad door lock actuators. I ordered a few more and should know soon.

Going to be swapping in 97+ doors on my MJ and running into some issues with the electric door locks. I've wired up the windows and mirrors and those are working as expected. I have the whole harness, switches, locks/mirrors/windows out of the truck on a bench and for some reason can't get the door locks to work consistently. I have 3 wires coming from the passenger switch that I'm not 100% sure where they should be connected. I've used the factory service manual to wire everything up, but have DB/PK, LB/RD, and LB left over. LB should be coming from IGN SWITCH SENSE (so I'm assuming I can just wire this up to ACC power). The DB/PK and LB/RD should be coming from the OVERHEAD MODULE, which I assume is related to keyless entry. Both wires appear to be 12v constantly when I test them. Any advice on this? I followed most of this guide, but they specified jumping the LB/RD and LB wires together, which didn't make much sense to me. Also, the door locks are out of the truck. Not sure if they need to be in the truck/grounded/hitting the striker/etc.

I don't think this is correct, as you're supplying a constant 12v to RUN-ACC POWER on the passenger door. I believe that should be connected to terminal 87 on the relay..

That came out amazingly good. Awesome work!

So you're saying I should get one? ;-)

I have a full MT2500 I’m looking to sell. Includes the Jeep cartridge and adapter, plus a bunch of other cartridges. $100 shipped. PM me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha thanks. Can’t be more explicit than that. I’ll think about a lame camper van instead [emoji24] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. This is helpful. As someone who’s rolled a vehicle at speed before, I wouldn’t want that to happen again. What do you feel is the safest weight for a lifted MJ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm looking at some of the Lance truck campers that fit in the bed of a pickup. Anyone here have experience with those? I'm assuming that I'd have to go with the "Short Bed" version for my 6' SWB Comanche. They range in weight from about 1,700 to ~2,000 lbs. My truck has a D44 rear and will be SOA rear with 6" front coils. Currently, the rear sits super high and has what I believe to be offroad package/metric ton springs. Will be running 4.88 gears with 33" tires. Front axle will be upgraded with WJ knuckles/brakes. Any advice? This could end up being a sweet offroad camper rig.

Not planning on keeping the old front-end and the original color is dark blue. Unfortunately, won't ever go with black or dark blue due to the difficulties with keeping it clean and the heat build up from the sun. Yeah, I like that color too. Definitely thought about that a bit.

I’m in Fremont. The truck is pictured with 30” TJ Ravine wheels and 2” pucks up front. Will be sitting at around 6” lift with SOA when finished with 33” tires.

Thanks. That's a bit too dark for me. Living in CA, I've learned that darker colors have a few drawbacks. Would like to stay on the somewhat lighter side if I could.