Smokeyyank

I'd just get axles from a 97-99 XJ. D44 isn't straight forward at all. Need a lot of stuff to do it right. At least with the XJ axle you'll get bigger u joints, CAD delete and will be a HP.

If you can pick it up cheap and there's not a lot of rust could be a good find. As for the driveline I'd scrap it and put something in that's worth a crap. It will be an undertaking for sure, but Gladiators are frickin awesome.

If rust is limited for $1,000 that's a pretty good deal. If you want turn it into a tow rig I'd look at swapping out the driveline. The 360 is decent, have one in a CJ, good torque but it's still carbed and at elevation it's a pain. It probably has a T89 or t18 so either 3 or 4 speed manny. The 4 is just a granny gear for 1st. I'd drop in a 350 with TBI vs going with after market EFI's. TBI is tried and true and can be picked up cheaper than the EFI's systems. In any case you can still keep the 360 and swap on a TBI. Just need a manifold adapter plate.

Thanks, big change from when Yella had it...

Put ACOS on the MJ to level out the front. Added about 2" also swapped over some quick discos, BPE and shocks form my recently departed XJ. How it was How it is now.

Rent from somewhere other than DIA, they rape and pilage your there. We do have a fancy new train from the Airport that will drop you off at all sorts of places. Hotwire has done me solid a few times for car rentals. Shouldn't have football that weekend so might be down for a beer or something. I'll PM you my #. Don't hang out with Yella, that guy's a jerk!

Gotta agree, it sticks too far out IMHO. Not just saying yours specifically, almost all those types bumpers in general I think look terrible.

As said, I wouldn't go with waggy. No real advantage in my opinion. Really, if you're going to swap axels at some HPD44/9 or tons are your best bets. You can also get JK axles, where I'm at people think they are gold plated so no sense in even considering.

Use this for gears... http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html The chart above while helpful isn't the best. It doesn't account for tcase or tranny so you can calculate your final crawl ratio. I ran 33s and 4.11's on my XJ, according to the chart above it's in the green. Well it was wrong, since I had a AW4 should have been at 4.56. 4.11's where ok, but I would have rather ran 31's for the 4.11's. Next go around with the MJ will be 4.56 and 33's, slight overkill since it's manual, but since I'm at elevation I need some more umph getting up the hill. I have not saw it mentioned but I would also swap out your front axle for a D30 that is non CAD, especially if you're going to run 35's . If you want to do it right you're going to need a lot more than lift and gears. Steering and braking should get upgraded to if you wanna play with the big rubbers. D30's are decent axles but their geometery sucks and in single piston calipers and you start to notice the limits of a D30 on 35's. My advice, learn to wheel on smaller tires and the ins and out of your rig. Then move up to either a d44/9 combo or go tons if you wan to go 35"+. Dollar for dollar it's silly to build a D30 to run 35's compared to a stronger axle.

It's probably underneath. A few others guys I've seen have make a tool to access the clutch through the bumper. I believe it can only work Warn and not smittys but I'm not 100%.

I was looking at doing something similar for the MJ, but I wanted a hidden winch bumper. I like the boostwerks design http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/BWE-Comp-Mount_p_14.html Here's my NAXJA thread about it http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1147107 Some decent ideas in there. I haven't done a damn thing besides buy the winch, but the biggest thing I got some far was being able to remove the bumper without needing to unbolt the steering.

Gotcha, yeah it's a decent write up for those that want to retina some what of a stock look.

Like this? http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/trim.html

What axle are you running currently? If you're going through the process of SOA, might be a good time to swap in a better rear end like a 29 spline 8.25 or a 8.8. Another plus is you could have it built and swap it over without the issue of not having welded perches. It might be tough to set your pinon angle though. I'd go with ruffstuff. This is a u bolt eliminator don't have to go this fancy but it's everything wrapped in one package, minus shock mounts. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2170.html

It's just the flat flares for the XJ. There is a slight gap in the rear for the MJ though. As for the rest. I'd say it really boils down to what axle you're going to run. Personally, I'm not a fan of anything above a 33" on a D30, can you run 35's on it, absolutely. The issue becomes the cost to upgrade the D30 to effectively run 35's vs just going with a HPD44 or tons. Plus the geometry of a D30 sucks once you start getting, tall 5"+, you can do the WJ swap but it's not cheap. For my MJ I'm planning to run 33's with a decently built D30 (selectable locker, 4.56 and WJ swap) , my Xj will run a HPD44 and 9" for 35's. When I had my other XJ I had a D30 and 33's, with the exception of being on 4.11's it handled everything just fine. I found 33's a good overall size for what I was doing, mild wheeling and daily.

AW4 will bolt up but the electrical will be a lot of work. You're better finding a pre 96 and pulling the tcase with it. For the D30 find a 97-99, it will have the better u joints, be a high pinion and non CAD. Pretty sure you're 91 will be a CAD and those are just silly to swap in unless it's your only option.

You might have a bad pump even if it's new. There is no filter unless it was added.

The front is easy and as you said is the same as the XJ. From what I've gathered for the rear you option is either going SOA or needing to get new leaf packs. I know on a XJ you can make bastard packs, don't think the same is true for the MJ. When I get a round to lifting mine I'll go SOA for rear possibly add in leaf sliders if they would work. Should net about 4.5" with the 8.25. I know Hell creek makes leafs but they are $$$. Rustys also has MJ 4" leafs, but I'm not a fan of Rustys stuff.

I only know so much from the XJ, but I'd suggest OME, Zone, IRO are good for starters. 2k should be more than enough to get a solid lift.

Awesome, thanks for the tips!

Howdy all. Little history, I'm a NAXJA guy and bought the MJ from YELLA (who I'm pretty sure is on here), it was the race truck. I simply couldn't stomach the thought of a lowered MJ so I saved it.... :D. While I love being on NAXJA, figured I'd drop by over here for my MJ questions as that sub forum isn't the most active. Anyways.... I need to replace the rear slider window on my MJ as some dumb @$$ kids shot it out with a BB gun. Luckily, Troy was kind enough to hook me up with a OEM solid glass piece. My question is how difficult is it to swap out and what do I need? I also have some little cracks at the top of the window frame that I will probably weld up. Any input is appreciated!