Smokeyyank

Ship it after a pre purchase checks out or you've examined and get the title. If you buy from a dealer they'll have brokers they work with. If private seller you'll have a little tricker time but possible. Get the title before, shipper really won't deal with that. Cheapest is getting it to a hub, door to door is more but not a lot covered is the most expensive and not necessary unless you're shipping a gem. Uship is a rip and you can find way cheaper and better transport. I've shipped several vehicles from running to rolling. As for branded titles it will depend on your state laws for both out of state and salvage. Some are easy.....others not worth the headache.

It's a trial lite made by R vision. From looking around r-vision is out of business. I've looked on facebook for group but no luck. I've seen a few general rv forums but not a lot of info. Again I could be asking the wrong questions. As for finding a different one I could but the cost of these things is bananas, plus I only want a Chevy drive train (which this is) and most everything else is Ford. I inherited this one so that's why I'd like to make it work. Ideally, I'd like to do a few things to just rumble around for a few years with the kids, biggest thing is more sleeping space and a general refresh. Here are some pics of the model. Interior below is what I'm going to do with adding the dinette

There are ways to upgrade the suspension while giving it a little lift without all the headaches. I used ACOS spacers up front on mine to level out the rake, the rear you can use XJ shackles to get a little more lift. You can also get new coils at stock height or up country coils which provide a little lift. You can replace your control arms or get WJ arms for a little benefit or go full short arm. A stock jeep is really capable. Traction is going to be a better upgrade over clearance any day but not everyone needs to spend the money on it. Based on what you said above I'd refresh the suspension and steering with new parts keeping the lift to a minimum and drive it. From there you can start adding things as needed.

Honestly, don't know where to begin with my question but I figured enough brain power here to at least help me find the rabbit hole. Searching hasn't gotten me too far but I could also be looking in the wrong spots. I recently acquired a 2002 trail lite 211. My RV knowledge is zero. Drive train wise I'm set, Chevy 3500 l, so no issues there, but when it comes to rest....total noob. It's similar to the one below with the exception of no pop out and couches on both sides. https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2002-R-Vision-Trail-Lite-5020774976 I really wish it was a little bigger but otherwise is exactly what I was looking for in a camper. I'll have to convert one of the couch areas to a dinette and do a refresh of everything inside anyways. So some of my questions...... -Any good forums or suggestions on where to start on the basics of everything? -Where can I add some sleeping space? Where the old TV is can I convert that into a sleeping area? Thinking there might be enough room by ditching the cabinets space for a bed or grafting a bigger one. Other thought was making a bunkbed some where. I'm also planning to have the dining area convert into a bed. -Is swapping a camper or building a new camper a realistic option? I know anything can be built but wondering how big of a feat that is? It would be nice to have a larger sleeping area in the rear. -Any other input? Thanks

Whew....just a little duty of a thread. Are you refereeing to an OBD style connector? If so Renix doesn't have that. Only option is a REM from nickintimefilms.

As someone who is a "Native" to CO this was pretty funny and pretty damn accurate.

Nothing huge just something fun. Wanted to get MANCHE but they wouldn't allow that......

Internet is your friend. Don't need to always call around I always check craigslist, fb marketplace, eBay, discount, Walmart, pepboys, tire rack, tireeasy to name a few. I was surprised that pepboys had the cheapest price on my last set, they tend to be the highest but old stock is a bargain hunters friend. When I asked discount to match the price they wouldn't. You can also find used tires cheap just be sure to check the date stamp. I've scored good deals that way too. Tricky part on getting good deals is a lot of places won't mount them or they upcharge the f out of it. Les Schwab wanted to charge me 40 a tire last time. Went to a local tire shop and they charged me 25.

I ran some Coopers on my wifes KJ. They did fine. Never went offroad, just driving around town and dealing with snowstorms. Loads better than the Michelins we replaced. On my WJ I have the Falken AT3w and those have been great. I would stay away from off brands. You can also find some good deals hunting around. I just got some new tires from pepboys for my daily for dirt cheap because they are a last year model. Normally they are $140 and I got them for $70. My advice is to search through stores and just go by the size.

Might just have to get that to hoard......

I have two in decent shape. I'll snag a pic tomorrow if I can.

Just the ACOS nothing else. Yeah you cut the bottom bump stop off but nothing that is difficult. I'm not a fan of rake on these trucks, I get it's purpose but this isn't a working truck and it looks ugly IMHO.

I used ACOS on mine to level the rake. It's also nice to have as an addition to your lift once you get there. You can also use upcountry coils to gain some lift. I'm not a fan of big spacers 1"+ but the smaller ones are fine. Before After

Filed up at Costco the other day for $3.67 for 91. Regular is about $3.30ish. I need to go to my office next week in the mountains and I know it's going to be around $4/gallon+. In laws just returned from Australia and it was $13 a gallon, filled up my brother in laws FJ cruiser and was almost $200 USD!

Thanks. Just saw your up in Carbondale. We lived in Eagle for a bit. I miss cruising to Glenwood and getting some Sweet coloradough but I don't miss having to deal with the canyon.

Really will depend on intend use and budget. For a mild setup to get some bigger tires I'd do -New trackbar, preferably a double shear. Like this https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-zj-adjustable-double-shear-track-bar-kit.html -New coils for about 3" lift. OME makes some great stuff. I'd also add in a spacer or go with the ACOS system to level it out unless you are fine with the rake. -Drop shackles -Short arms with control arm drop brackets. Long arms will give you the best geometry and ride but aren't cheap. Shorts arms and drop brackets are a nice way to get some adjustability and better ride quality. -Refresh your steering and put an upgraded solid tie rod. -Good set of shocks, I like billis and have them in my WJ. Some think they are too stiff but I don't find that at all. OME also makes some good shocks. Honestly there are a ton of different ways to get there This is mine with ACOS only up front. I just want to get rid of the rake. Tires weren't that much larger than stock. Before After

Great, thanks for the info. As for rads I know it's kind of a crap shoot. Was looking at this one https://www.mishimoto.com/1991-2001-jeep-cherokee-replacement-radiator.html But any other ones to consider? I believe the parts needed are. -rad -rad cap -Overflow -Thermostat housing from a 92+ I also plan to replace the water pump and hoses.

Leaning towards open but the whole of ain't broke thing.......I'll more than likely swap it just wanting to gather options.

A while back when I was doing the headlight harness upgrade I noticed the radiator had a small pinhole leak in it. I currently do not have any overheating issues but want to be proactive so I don't. So question now is do I convert to an open cooling system or do I just replace the few parts and keep it closed?

My project MJ has a 99 intake swapped in. I bought it that way and will end up stripping that MJ down and probably using the motor in my 88. It was never running so I can;t comment a bunch but here the breakdown. 96 4.0L block with 91 7120 head on it, with 99 intake manifold & 91-up exhaust manifold. Renix fuel rail with Volvo 746 injectors. 96+ throttle body that’s been bored out to 63mm. Renix distributor & alternator. 98 power steering pump & bracket.

Pretty cool! Id suggest going through cruiser54s tip and trying to get a few back up parts before venturing out. Can only imagine the challenges of getting parts on that side of the pond, not to mention cross continent traveling.

If your overflow tank is cracked you need to replace that. You can swap in a volvo one IIRC that is a slight improvement. Since it's a closed system any leaks will cause issues.