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Everything posted by Smokeyyank
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Transmission Cooler Lines
Smokeyyank replied to Dammerung's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Not negative 20 about 20* -
Transmission Cooler Lines
Smokeyyank replied to Dammerung's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I can't remember the exact one, it is a Hayden but don't remember which one. It's fairly large. In regards to temps. I have a temp gauge on my WJ for the tranny. With it connected to the rad it was constantly at 190+ if it was a hot day it would go 200+, once I bypassed the rad I stay around 120-190 depending on the outside temp and what I'm doing. If it's hot (90+) and I'm towing a big load or creeping up a hill it's on the higher side. For driving around town unloaded rarely gets above 170 even in stop and go. My biggest reason for bypassing the rad was the leaks, the connectors where a constant issue and I got sick of tightening them. Here's my set up -
4.10 would be the minimum, ideal would be closer to 4.56 for 33s. If you don't want to regear move down to 30-31s and it will be "manageable".
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Transmission Cooler Lines
Smokeyyank replied to Dammerung's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'd bypass the rad. Even in cooler weather it's never been an issue for me. Heat kills transmissions not the cold. Yes it helps get it up to temp but ideal tranny temp is 165-170 and op temp of the 4.0 is 205. As for a cooler, a stacked plate cooler IIRC provides the best cooling but is on the more expensive side. I run a standard tube and fin and it's been fine. -
New front coil springs or ACOS?
Smokeyyank replied to knever3's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I ran ACOS on my old MJ. I liked it but I bought it for future down the road adjustments and fine tuning the front, ie added weight from bumper, sagging, etc. Spacers would probably be fine if you wanted a cheaper route. Another thing to consider is there is a natural rake so the coils are probably fine but it's the rake. The bump stop isn't adjustable just extended. -
Yes and no, upgraded tie is really only a upgrade for wheeling. If you bash it on a rock don't want it to taco. If your 2wd is a track car then would be beneficial. If it's stock just get a ZJ tierod if you want some extra strength.
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gotta say... this method of cargo transport hadn't occurred to me...
Smokeyyank replied to Pete M's topic in The Pub
Saw this beaut driving home from football. So many things going on. Two tandem axles on the rear, a few grills, topper on the camper.....Just soooo many things. -
From my experience I'd find a used Honda or Toyota. Just need something simple and reliable that doesn't have a ton of space. If you have a truck you're always going to be asked to move stuff and haul people. If you have a minivan you're always going to be asked to haul people. I'd also find something that's easy to park. My first year in the dorms I had a massively lifted k5. I couldn't park anywhere and it was an absolute headache but everyone always wanted to take it because it was basically a monster truck. It was cool but not at all practical.
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What's your budget? Speaking soley from a mpg point something that gets 30+ is huge plus especially with current gas prices.
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Seems fitting.......
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I'd go with OME. One of the better if not best riding lifts out there. Other option is doing as jeep driver is saying and piecing together what you need. No "kit" will have everything. Will they have most everything yes, but you will always need more than what's in the kit. Basics are -Coils -Shocks -Trackbar -Add a leaf or extended shackles -Either short arm kit or control arm drop bracket (I'd go drop bracket for ride quality) Refresh other worn components. Other things to consider -extended brake lines, if nothing else stepping up to SS braided lines helps pedal feel tremendously. -U joints needing to be repalced -Brakes -Brake booster upgrade -Put in a solid tie rod either e ZJ or new one. -Sway bars links and parts. Probably some other things I'm forgetting but to give you an idea.
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Pass on junk country. If you are looking for a basic lift I'd go either OME or IRO. One thing is most any XJ lift will work with the exception of the rear because of being spring under. Also what are you looking to do? Just want it for looks or for wheeling? https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-3-premium-short-arm-lift-kit.html https://dpgoffroad.com/product/3-5-hd-ultimate-xj-old-man-emu-hybrid-kit/
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In my defense a well done boneless wing is still great..... Also I do not shot my guns like this. Kill my back putting that much flex on it. Prefer to shoot with more of a hunch.
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No I have it, was planning to sell off parts and keep the trailer.
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Looks tasty! How long you been brewing for?
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Jeep and quiet rarely go in the same sentence. I've had MJs,XJs, CJs and WJs. By far the best ride is in a WJ but it's also because it's made to be a better ride. A MJ was never really made to be a cushy smooth or quiet ride. To get it that way I'd say you'd need to add sound deadener to the inside. While not a massive undertaking it takes time and depending on the condition of the interior could lead down a rabbit hole.
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Made chicken tinga tacos with roasted corn pineapple salsa, avocado crema and crispy cheese taco shells. Tried to take a picture of the finished product but couldn't keep them on a plate long enough..... They were delicious
