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Hear many a horror story about the gov-lok lockers in those Volvos but no first hand experience. The pins engagement design seems like it could sheer off though or at least give a lot of trouble. Seems we had a thread going about these recently

ASD relay? Not sure if Renix had that or not

I’d love to see a new tailgate.

Very true. Even on open systems, a leak prevents pressure buildup which is essential to a properly functioning cooling system. So a leak in any part of the pressurized side of an open loop cooling system will cause on overheat as well

This kk02108@gmail.com

I think you’ve found your heating problem or at least a major contributor. If you can smell coolant, you need to track down where that is coming from. If the system can’t build pressure, it won’t effectively cool. Even a tiny leak can keep you running hot

All raptor liner up to the firewall is complete. The only items left to coat are the front wheel wells and the underside and inside of the bed. Was going to work on the front end next but the rear leaf spring bolts were completely seized in the spring. So I’ll have to work on the springs and might as well do the rear axle since there’s no reason not to at this point. Rear axle is a KJ 8.25 with disks and 3.55’s. Will remove all the bracketry and install the ARB along with new brakes and bearing/seals. Also have a non disco HP30 front along with bracket gussets and another ARB. Might just do both at the same time. Give the raptor liner plenty of time to fully cure

Second coat complete. Under cab is finished.

Underside just received the first coat of Raptor Liner. 60 mins to recoat time. I didn’t want any black liner under the hood as I’m going to do full body work under the hood and paint it the same as the exterior. The wheel wells will be Raptored as well. Getting ready to drop the rear axle to shoot back there then I’ll put it back in place so I can roll it around, I’m shooting the Raptor outside and will move to the paint booth once I finish with the liner.

Thanks! Started on pillar foam today. I’ve pointed out some strategic areas for pillar foam. Been spending a huge amount of time on the bottom of the truck. I hand scraped every square inch under the truck and removed every drop of undercoating/grease/dirt. Then I degreased and blasted it all twice. Used compressed air and blew out anywhere water can pool up. Will let it thoroughly dry overnight then scuff it all up, touch up any bare metal, seam seal any vulnerable areas, POR-15 then raptor line the bottom.

The paint is being mixed up now. Going with AkzoNobel base and clear.

I’ll be using dynamat in the doors, roof and back of cab. I won’t use any on the floor. Will be using dynapad on the firewall and top of trans tunnel. Also using 3m pillar foam in b pillars and rear cab braces along with the roof bracing.

For the tunnel, you could just cut some 20awg sheet metal and patch it. It’s important to remove the firewall pad as well as it tends to have a lot more rust back there. Also look carefully for any seam sealer that may be hiding rust. You’ve got quite a few areas to repair but it’s doable. Key parts has great replacement panels but their floor pan is not Comanche specific and it may not actually be long enough to replace rust through going up the firewall. Personally, I’d be inclined to replace the entire floor with another one from and MJ if possible.

Yes

Entire interior has been coated in raptor liner from the headliner to the floor. Every single nook and cranny has been thoroughly cleaned, repaired and coated. 3m 2 part seam sealer installed in key areas. Going to be using some 3m pillar foam in a few strategic areas to reduce panel resonance and quiet the cab.

More progress

Much appreciated!

Thanks! To the OP, I’ve used the moog/precision ones before as well. They seem to be a bit more harsh than oem but they worked fine for the two or so years I had them on my YJ

Floor has been completely prepped and POR-15’d. Started working under the cab cleaning the tunnel and prepping for primer sealer. There are a few strategic places for some seam sealer on the under side as well. Once that’s done I’ll shoot epoxy primer then raptor liner. Also removed the crossmember frame brackets and will replace all the stripped out nuts and weld on new ones. Really happy I was able to save so much of this oem floor.

@eaglescout526 Any chance you can help locate some oem?

The factory’s application of seam sealer is terrible. They would seal the inside of a horizontal seam and water just gets trapped there. Here are a few places I found rust hiding under the seam sealer which was just slopped-on all over the place. The quality of the seam sealing and welding between this 90 and my old 91 is night and day difference. The 91 had a much more qualified welder and seam sealer at the helm when it was built. Not sure if this is an AMC-Chrysler thing or just a bad assembly line. Anyways, every square inch of the truck has been cleaned, degreased and blasted down. There is no dust or any residue left even in the nasty areas like the cab corners and inner cowl. 90% of the metal work is complete and I’m getting ready to treat the surface rust then POR15 the roof and floor along with a few lightly rusted areas. Once that’s cured I’ll be seam-sealing the overhead and vertical seams with 3m heavy bodied seam sealer. Then comes brush-on seam sealer over all the pinch welds inside. Once that’s finished and cured I’ll scuff everything, do a wipe-down cleaning with acetone and shoot epoxy primer inside the entire cab and over all metal work. That will be followed by either lizard skin or raptor liner inside the cab (will still be installing carpet over the top). Note: There are two spots (pictured) where the firewall meets the inner fender that are seam sealed. The seam sealer here tends to crack and allow water to settle into that area and start rusting which later turns into rusty floor boards. I recommend drilling a 1/4” drain hole here to allow water to drain in addition to a coat of POR 15 in that channel along with some 3m 2 parts seam sealer which can handle the temps under the hood.

Looking forward to your updates! I reference your threat at least twice a week for little tech tidbits.

Anyone else up for Moab later this year?

I’ve used SEM as wel with excellent results. It does require good prep though. Also heard great things about this stuff: https://www.eastwood.com/ew-plastic-resurfacer-matte-black-aerosol.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c1E_tgoPGvjOnDirkBdFS7IXqyIuFc9f1AekwmkF3icfUEQ7A7n_1BoCxg4QAvD_BwE&wickedid=580522474071&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1