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Try to grab a nos Mopar unit. I’ve had good success with NTK cps as well.

Hold up, their MJ kit is just for the front. For the rear they give you a weld-on bracket that is going to require a fuel cell since one of them goes where the fuel tank is. You then weld on a truss for the upper links. The rear is very much a diy 4 link “kit”. The belly pan is not the point of attachment for the rear links. Unless he just built another kit with extremely long links for the rear axle… The fitment of those components requires a fair amount of clearancing to accomplish.

Is agree with @Eagle . Your main leaf is not right. You can put all the weight in the world back there, it isn’t going to compensate for a short main leaf. As for the overall lift height, there is far too much free arch in those springs. You have 5 main leafs in that pack and no overload from what I can tell. That pack isn’t going to settle more than maybe 1” after a lot of use. I’ve tried driving over springs with a car to flatten them out in the past, it doesn’t work. It’s spring steel and they just spring right back. Remove the pack and return it and come up with a plan b.

Agreed. Use automotive seam sealer

IMO either those shackles are bound up in the wrong position or there is simply too much arch on those springs/wrong spring. Out of curiosity, are those new springs from Rustys? They look used in the pics.

Looking for just a clean 91-96 full instrument cluster along with the two connectors to use as pigtails. Mileage is not a factor but the clear plastic overlay needs to be crack free.

Pinion angle is also quite bad but is likely going hand in hand with the spring problem. Loosen the spring and shackle bolts then set it back down on the ground and see what happens. Perhaps also double check your part numbers for those springs

What are you thinking cost wise? I’d be interested in a custom set.

Key parts sells the lower door skins.

Is it Adam you spoke to? I haven’t installed that system but have installed several other Ironman parts. All seemed to be good quality stuff. If you watch the Comanche episode of “Runs Good” on motortrend they install that setup. Adam was pretty good with pre purchase follow through. He was quite busy though at the time. His rear 4 link brackets were designed for the JCR Comanche build and will require using a fuel cell or otherwise moving the fuel system. There are others who have designed an MJ 4 link without needing to do that though. The front system seems to be very decent. The video shows some of the fitment issues they had.

Not sure what he offered but many here have also used phoenix graphics for oem decals and stickers. https://www.phoenixgraphix.com/jeep.php#Comanche

Almost time to get this project moving again. Body work is next. Have to do some hot work first welding in the bed section along with the bed corner under the drivers tail light. Will disassemble the doors as well and get everything ready for finish work. Ultimately, I’ve been gathering everything needed to make the “Trail Master” concept MJ a reality. 10 slot chrome grill, turbines, original Marchal fogs, hidden winch, skid package and the warrior gen 1 brush guard bumper which is the closest thing I could find in the aftermarket that resembles the original brush guard and seems to have a nice “period correct” design. I will have a lot of extra parts when this is all done. The goal is finally in sight though. I'm going to have this eliminator live up to its name

I think he’s referring to the 30.5 gallon genright tank for the XJ.

Awesome! Thanks

Good to know. Found some nice 2 piece door panels I think I’m going to get. If there is any way we could post up the different door panel variations there are, that may be a nice picture reference thread for those looking to restore or modify their interior.

I’ve been noticing that there are such a huge variety of door panels over the entire 84-96 xj range. I’ve never personally come across the two piece panels though used on the higher trim levels. Can I swap from the one piece door panel to a two piece? Here are some pics for reference along with said trim piece that fits on top of the newer replacement door panels along with the one piece panels I’m used to seeing.

Those are great mats. The husky’s are a copy of those.

If water is getting down to the bulkhead area, it’s only a matter of time before it makes its way in through another seam or hole into the cab if it can’t get through the bulkhead connector. Water just shouldn’t generally be there. I know there are times when a few drops can get in there which is why I add a small drain hole from that area to the wheel well.

The best liners I’ve come across for the MJ are the husky XJ versions. They lay flat and are quality. Reminds me a lot of oem Jeep slush mats. Iirc there is a tab that will be trimmed off for a perfect fit.

Have you tried to determine why the water is getting to the bulkhead connector in the first place? Is the hood to cowl seal good? Is the seam sealer on the sides still good? Is the cowl leaking down the firewall?

Seems like I recall aftermarket bars being under $500 new

Same here. Single stage patina is quite different. Every time I hear “patina” though I automatically think “cheap”

Fortunately, the 91-96 XJ full clusters seem to be much easier to find than the renix era full clusters

The unibody frame area under the cab of the MJ is a bit tricky. The bed frame comes all the way up to that cab cross brace area and is essentially pressed into the unibody frame work. If your frame is otherwise straight, I’d rig up some 2x2 square tubing or even 1x1 and tack them onto the existing frame rails almost like crossmembers or a jig, then get the blaster/grinder/plasma torch out and see what it takes to get to clean metal. I can understand the priority is to get it running and driving but unfortunately there may be no great fix for the frame work that would allow for a cheap solution to get it driving. I’d start with the cheap stuff though just incase you decide that it’s just not salvageable (or just not something you want to take on). If you have decent fab skills though along with time and money, you can make it work. If this was my project and I was committed to restoring the frame, I’d brace it, media blast it (or use whatever means necessary to get to clean metal), cut out the damaged areas, weld in new metal, then add a full set of frame bracing. Lots of work though

Reference a Moog K160039