ghetdjc320

Hvac box restoration in progress. I add a lot of extra sealing around these plate and fin evaporators. There is no room for the blower to throw air around the evaporator now. All the seams have been sealed up. Made replacement gaskets for the air intake and the firewall seal. Also added a 1/8” minicel gasket to the blend door on each side. The hvac should function better than factory when I’m finished.

Keep in mind most flow rates are measured at 3 bar (43.5psi). The stock MJ system should be 19lbs at 39psi. The only really advantage on a stock engine would be better atomization if the injector has multiple holes.

BWE hidden winch/steering brace, motor mounts, control arms and front axle are now all in. Plenty of adjustments to make but nice to have it be a roller again.

Much appreciated!

Motor mounts and track bar mount are in. The frame rail at the track bar mounting point has been heavily reinforced as I’ve noticed it to be a weak point. Dynamatting the interior and rebuilding the hvac box. Also mounting the hidden winch and steering brace setup. I’ll be running a RedHead 12:1 steering gear with a 35lb valve. The goal is to have rack and pinion level steering precision.

On a side note, picked up a vibration tumbler setup with abrasive media to clean up hardware. Grabbed it at harbor freight. Works exceedingly well and lets me reuse a lot of oem hardware which, in many instances, is better quality and fit than what one finds on the shelf.

Much appreciated. I’m considering doing custom MJ builds in the future actually.

I’ll gather the part numbers for that. The thick gaskets are 1” minicell 2lb foam. Inside the box the lining is mostly open cell foam 1/8” thick. I assume that may be more of a sound baffle than anything as it offers little insulation. There are a few other seals such as those around the heater core and ac evaporator. I have ordered the replacement thick foam already. The gasket that goes around the ac evaporator lines is specially molded. Fortunately mine was in excellent shape. The open cell foam lining inside the box was also in very good shape and will be thoroughly cleaned with a mixture of simple green and the water.

I’ll see what the next build holds for colors.

Here are some problem spots I recommend addressing for water intrusion. Just below the hvac blower, below the bulkhead connector, and into each rocker panel opening from the wheel well. Wheel wells and the underside or the front frame rails are now coated with raptor liner.

Good to know! Looks like all my repairs are with abs. The center console is always a trick to repair. Planning to use a Polyvance welder to do these repairs but needed to identify the right material. Thanks again!

Interesting

I see production dates but I can’t identify a code. I believe there are some different types of plastic used for interior trim but it may be mostly abs. The center console and pillar trim tends to be a bit more brittle and crack. The kick panels and inner door sill trim on the other hand feel almost like a nylon material.

Was wondering if anyone knows the specific types of plastic used for various interior panels. I will be doing some plastic welding and repairs to bring my interior back to perfect but will need to know the types used. Here are the components I’m looking to ID: Center console shell center console black insert b pillar trim a pillar trim dash bezel Tagging @Dzimm and @m2bandit as they both work heavily on interior plastic pieces.

That was a much cleaner look imo than the kc switch under the dash

The front end of the Jeep is now being body worked. Also disassembled the hvac unit to do a full restoration.

Front axle is finished. Body work to begin next. After a few hours of cleanup 13” rotors, massive dual piston calipers. It all fits a turbine wheel so long as you use a 1.25” spacer and are willing to grind down the bracket and caliper some. A 1.5” spacer will probably let you just slightly grind the bracket down. The calipers do look much better with the casting marks removed though. Calipers have been clear coated as well. I will say, it’s quite a bit of brake when you look through the turbine spokes This is about as “ultimate” HP30 as I’d built for this particular MJ. There is a bit of weakness at the inner C’s that was addressed with the gusseting. Lower control arm brackets are now greatly reinforced with skid protection. Passenger side upper control arm is significantly stronger due to the gusseting. Track bar mount has been replaced with a nice 3/16” bracket welded in place. The 3.55 gearing is as deep a gearing as one can go while still keeping the large pinion. For 31’s and the LS1 this will be a great combo.

$200 drop from last time! i can make the 5 caps I have look better than that for that price. Saw a set for $299. That was a tempting price but $799 is way too overpriced

Assuming you have adjustable uppers and lowers, just use the lowers and center the axle. Then use the uppers to set the caster angle.

Finished up one side today. The caliper and bracket do both require some flap disk work. You’ll need to take off about 1/8” of material off of the caliper and bracket. I’m using the late 99+ style unit bearings and only needed 1 washer on each caliper bracket to center them up. The washers were .10” on the dot. Test fit the turbines. I need some NOS center caps for these wheels. They are just too nice to clap on some old center caps. Also finished restoration on a rear prop valve. It’s going into a parts collection of top shelf parts for something in the future I suppose

I believe there was a member here that had made the cad drawings. Seems like dirt bound ended up with the blueprints but never moved forward with production iirc. Any reason you don’t wan to use the T&M plates? I have the front set and they have a decent fit.

Can’t tell for sure from the picture but it doesn’t look like they chewed through any copper correct? You could cut and splice the wiring. Pulling a pin out of that connector though is also not too difficult. I’d suggest some adhesive lined heat sink as well

The Dana 35 can be made to hold up well but there are specific mods that work and others that don’t. The nice thing about a Dana 35 is the low weight and the clearance you can get.