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Just knocked out what I hope to be the last of the patch panels. I’ll sand down the hole bed and shoot it with epoxy primer before adding some evercoat fibertech over the weld joints followed by Rage then a glazing compound as a skim coat. Bottom of the bed and inside will be raptor lined. Some strategic use of seam sealer and adding better drainage is in order as well.

Yep that’s it! Got mine at Morris 4x4. Took about maybe 2-3 weeks to ship. I still have it all wrapped up in the shop along with a ton of other things. The D ring version of this bumper adds some cost but that’s because they add significant bracing for those d ring mount points. It’s a very nice bumper for sure. Was planning to go with the Hanson rear MJ bumper (not advertised but they will make them upon request) as it matches nicely but I also have an oem bumper and hitch I could use if need be.

Could just be some slight variances in the flare mounting holes. They do have some play in them

Perfect, thanks!

Hello all, my MJ is all apart so I can’t get this dimension but I need the space between the front and rear flares for stock flares on a short bed rig. The back edge of the front flare to the front edge of the rear flare. TIA!

KJ 8.25 nuff said. Right bolt patter, better width than stock, nice sized disks, 3” axle tubes that don’t spin, plenty of locker options, non oversized pumpkin, no shims needed to setup carrier due to adjusters. It has plenty of brackets to remove just like the 8.8. They are also relatively easy to find and economical. If your swapping front and rear axles that’s a different story

Centric is a go to if oem want not available. Normally a pretty good bet

Bed corner replaced. Thanks @Pete M for those pieces from the sacrificial bed

All welded up and smoothers out. Added a backing plate to the bottom for extra strength.

Updates! Doing the final metal work and prepping the patch panels. @Dzimm made me a custom set of tail light housings for the 1156/1157 waterproof sockets. These use 4 locator tabs and have a much better seal. All the wiring is sealed as well. Trying to track down a set of splash guards/mud flaps if anyone has any they’d like to sell/trade.

The KJ Liberty 8.25 is the way to go. It runs 2.5” wider than the stock Dana 35/44 and matches the truck perfectly. Disk brakes are simple to service and self clean which is a nice advantage in certain applications. Plus it’s a relatively easy axle to setup with gears and a locker

I also ran the Metal Cloak springs in my MJ. They worked great and stayed in the bucket as described. The higher quality springs are typically Metal Cloak, Old Man Emu and Currie. Rubicon express are a decent option still though. Ride quality is still mostly determined by the shocks for a coil spring setup. For a Jeep Speed style rig built for high speed off-roading, the acos pro with the hydraulic bump stops is a nice setup when tuned and setup properly.

True, for some reason I was thinking he was looking for 6x5.5 pattern

I’m thinking based on axles as well. Almost all the 80’s and 90’s 1/2-3/4t Chevy trucks and vans used a 6x5.5 pattern. If you’re looking for something from a Jeep then most FSJ such as the wagoneer came with that pattern also. Isuzu rodeo/Honda passport also. The Jeep wheel may be a good option.

Try to grab a nos Mopar unit. I’ve had good success with NTK cps as well.

Hold up, their MJ kit is just for the front. For the rear they give you a weld-on bracket that is going to require a fuel cell since one of them goes where the fuel tank is. You then weld on a truss for the upper links. The rear is very much a diy 4 link “kit”. The belly pan is not the point of attachment for the rear links. Unless he just built another kit with extremely long links for the rear axle… The fitment of those components requires a fair amount of clearancing to accomplish.

Is agree with @Eagle . Your main leaf is not right. You can put all the weight in the world back there, it isn’t going to compensate for a short main leaf. As for the overall lift height, there is far too much free arch in those springs. You have 5 main leafs in that pack and no overload from what I can tell. That pack isn’t going to settle more than maybe 1” after a lot of use. I’ve tried driving over springs with a car to flatten them out in the past, it doesn’t work. It’s spring steel and they just spring right back. Remove the pack and return it and come up with a plan b.

Agreed. Use automotive seam sealer

IMO either those shackles are bound up in the wrong position or there is simply too much arch on those springs/wrong spring. Out of curiosity, are those new springs from Rustys? They look used in the pics.

Looking for just a clean 91-96 full instrument cluster along with the two connectors to use as pigtails. Mileage is not a factor but the clear plastic overlay needs to be crack free.

Pinion angle is also quite bad but is likely going hand in hand with the spring problem. Loosen the spring and shackle bolts then set it back down on the ground and see what happens. Perhaps also double check your part numbers for those springs

What are you thinking cost wise? I’d be interested in a custom set.

Key parts sells the lower door skins.

Is it Adam you spoke to? I haven’t installed that system but have installed several other Ironman parts. All seemed to be good quality stuff. If you watch the Comanche episode of “Runs Good” on motortrend they install that setup. Adam was pretty good with pre purchase follow through. He was quite busy though at the time. His rear 4 link brackets were designed for the JCR Comanche build and will require using a fuel cell or otherwise moving the fuel system. There are others who have designed an MJ 4 link without needing to do that though. The front system seems to be very decent. The video shows some of the fitment issues they had.

Not sure what he offered but many here have also used phoenix graphics for oem decals and stickers. https://www.phoenixgraphix.com/jeep.php#Comanche