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I dug deep in my schematics but I used this diagram to create my standalone efi setup. This is a factory diagram for my 91 HO MJ

The 7 blade 4.0 fan in the picture above has been my go to fan with the Hayden/Napa ZJ clutch. I didn’t have any issues fitting it with my mishimoto radiator either. After many fan configurations, the 7 bald mech fan ZJ clutch and 10 blade late model XJ oem fan (only the genuine Mopar one) worked the best. I also upgraded the factory fan circuit and it also helped with a bit more RPM. I also used a resistor on the CTS to bring the e fan on about 10 degrees cooler than factory settings. Thats on an HO model MJ with a heavily built 4.0

This has always been quite the ordeal on my Jeeps. The bolt likes to seize inside the bushing sleeve. But for the most part, yeah, that should get you free. I have a sneaking suspicion that d44 is from something else like maybe a TJ. Are there any signs of old brackets that have been cutoff at some point? Is that a barcode gage on the left tube near the pumpkin?

And *if* you decide to swap to newer knuckles, there are probably several members who would buy your old ones.

You may find some of this info helpful: You should have no problem finding replacement brake parts for the pre 90’ knuckles. Jump on rock auto and order away. You can swap to the 90+ style knuckles and corresponding components, and yes, it is a bolt on mod (though also a good time to do ball joints). But I wouldn’t ever say the 90+ is an upgrade. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1988,comanche,4.0l+242cid+l6,1181584,brake+&+wheel+hub

The ac voltage test on a variable reluctance sensor is somewhat subjective without a reference cranking rpm. The voltage is going to vary based on your cranking rpm and not all 4.0’s crank at the same speed as you well know. Battery voltage, ground and power cable condition and many other factors could greatly affect this reading. Try a fully charged battery with no spark plugs in the cylinders. My guess is that you’ll see a higher voltage. But again, try pulling out a plug and checking for spark before messing with the cps. You could get better sensor resolution when lessening the air gap, but it should still run just fine at the factory gap. Out of curiosity, did it start taking longer and longer to start recently?

HO is a Hall effect sensor. Renix is VR. To the OP: do you have any spark? Have you checked fuel???

It’s a binary switch so the only question is whether or not the temperatures are rated the same but it shouldn’t be far off. It can be bypassed and probably won’t cause any problems. Just make sure to keep the pressure switch that goes on the dryer.

Most auto body shops and auto glass shops will have a huge variety to choose from in stock.

Still sounds like bad fuel pump to me. Install your old cps back on. If the new one is giving you issues.

The pump is very easy to replace finding a good replacement pump, on the other hand, can be more difficult

Check your temperature with an ir gauge or similar at the thermostat housing just to verify the reading at the dash. The 4.0 fuel map is tuned for a 195 thermostat.

I haven’t seen the actual urethane seal surface leak, but practically every seam on MJ’s is a leak spot with horrendously poor application of sub standard seam sealer. The harder you look the more issues you’ll find. If the glass shop removes the glass, take a look for yourself at all the body seams in and around those frames. The glass shops I’ve dealt with only concerned themselves with the pinch seam where the glass adheres for the most part.

Your idle fuel pressure sounds good. As mentioned above, 39psi should be the pressure with no vacuum attached/engine not running or WOT situations.

My vote would be dying pump. Very typical symptoms. Fuel pumps can just go out completely but I’ve noticed most that I’ve had go out in the last 10-15 years do so sporadically

The 8.25 pinion is also offset iirc to the passenger side

Going to bump this question again as I’d also like to know the answer

I built a frame inside my tailgate. It’s in my tomahawk build in epic tech

Thats why I asked if you had 89 knuckles. Can you snap a picture of the knuckles?

Do you have 89 knuckles? New bolts normally come with the calipers. 89 was the last year for the old style.

They normally just cut through the bearing retainer then break it off. The non c clip D35 uses the same bearings as the D44 of that era.

Yes, please repop the actual flaps!!! I have a lot of info on them if you need detailed drawings. Great to have the hardware though too. i don’t need them yet, but save me a set for tomahawk

That turned out awesome!

Not likely. The MJ will be over here next year also once I get a place setup for it over here. will be back early 2024 to finish it up hopefully by spring. Plan on staying here indefinitely though, just trying to pickup the pieces after this nasty typhoon. Really hoping power comes back one of these days. Two weeks with no power is rough when it’s hot and humid.

As it currently sits. Started with some new 30x9.5 (original Sahara size) and some 316 replacement hardware to take care of a few rusty bolts.