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I ran Spandano rockers on my old MJ. Worked well and you couldn’t tell it wasn’t factory. The continuous stretch of 2x5 should work well if you can tie it into the cab factory supports nicely. As for being able to switch back, it’s really not that hard to do. I had to undo PO’s mods or damage that were far more invasive. Key parts should have cab corners soon if you ever decided to switch it back.

Getting close to picking up this project again. Planning to pull the engine again and adding notch flares and ares bedside armor. Anyone ever used the ares armor? Here is what I was looking at: http://aresfabrication.com/shop/mj-bed-armor/

Wow, that’s only 50 minutes away from my MJ… I see 97+ fenders and some leather XJ upholstery there also.

I never had any issues with turbines fitting rear disks. But I was using the Black Magic kit. He uses Centric calipers. If there is any fitment issues, the tinniest bit of flap disking will solve it. I stuffed 13.25 Mustang rotors and grand Cherokee twin piston calipers inside a turbine with a 1.25 spacer and some caliper bracket clearancing. The tiny little oem disks will be far easier to fit

Check for vacuum leaks and fuel pressure

Shoot us some under the hood pictures as identifying the block doesn’t always corelate with identifying the efi/chassis wiring. Also shoot over some pics of the splices you found

You can mix the leaves in the packs to even them out.

Why not just pull out your harness and start cleaning it up? I swapped in a painless 23 circuit harness but it took plenty of custom work. A wanted ad here in the classifieds will likely have good success also. There also those FB Comanche parts groups that will likely have some as well. What year, engine and tranny do you have?

I would suggest that you discard whatever throw out bearing comes with any clutch kit and get a high quality timken/national/Koyo unit. It’s just the Luk pressure plate and clutch disk that have been good for the price

Looks good! You should have a bit more spring rate and free arch. But thin leaves like that won’t make much difference in ride quality.

Luk rep-set has been a go to for some time now. Good price and quality

You can use a driveshaft yoke adapter or swap the yoke on the pinion. As for brakes, you’ll want to swap the prop valve to something like a ZJ or and adjustable valve like the Wilwood one. Rear disks need a bit more pressure than drums. A dual diaphragm booster is helpful and stick with a master cylinder with between an 7/8 to 1” bore. Are you planning to swap over the compressor for the lockers?

Keep in mind that the taper improves velocity. When Painless made their “perfect” 4.0 throttle body, they went with a tapered design that necked down to 63mm which is the manifold inlet size.

I’m running the Novak cable shifter on my current MJ. Works well

I’ve always heard it coming from the lifters in the middle 4.0 as they bleed out and settle after running. But every 4.0 I’ve ever had makes that sound

You can ship a Dana 30 as loose cargo through FedEx or ups ground (under 150lbs). Take it off the pallet and shrink wrap it. You could save even more if you remove the knuckles and ship them in a flat rate box. You can use pirateship to get good ups rates unless you already have an account.

But before you start, make sure you completely bleed out your new master cylinder

Could you post some pictures of what you’re finding? Is this for your 89 MJ in your sig?

Do you still have the rear load sensing valve? When you replaced your master, did you bench bleed it before install?

I went with the crown ax15 kit several years ago. Worked fine. My current ax15 I’m sending off to Marlin Crawler to build as they are pretty much the only company out there that produce upgrade parts for the ax15 and can make them incredibly stout. For the NP231 I got a kit from Novak. Good quality seals

Once you try to fill 1/4” or more of a hole or gap, some sort or reinforcement is advised. You could use a good short strand filler like evercoat fibretech using the tape method advised above after applying por15 black. But first, keep at your seam sealer and strip it all out. I suspect you will find a TON more rust hiding in the atrocities know as MJ factory spot welded seams. If you don’t get it all removed, you will never be able to get to or eliminate that cancerous hidden rust.

Do yourself a favor and keep removing all that seam sealer. Especially the this giant blob in the corner. A multitool with a caulk blade works exceptionally well for removing the old sealer. I suspect you will find a lot more problem areas

Also check the connector on the blower motor switch.

You can use a ratchet strap to recenter it. But you shouldn’t be setting your track bar in final position until you get all your weight in the truck.