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You can ship a Dana 30 as loose cargo through FedEx or ups ground (under 150lbs). Take it off the pallet and shrink wrap it. You could save even more if you remove the knuckles and ship them in a flat rate box. You can use pirateship to get good ups rates unless you already have an account.

But before you start, make sure you completely bleed out your new master cylinder

Could you post some pictures of what you’re finding? Is this for your 89 MJ in your sig?

Do you still have the rear load sensing valve? When you replaced your master, did you bench bleed it before install?

I went with the crown ax15 kit several years ago. Worked fine. My current ax15 I’m sending off to Marlin Crawler to build as they are pretty much the only company out there that produce upgrade parts for the ax15 and can make them incredibly stout. For the NP231 I got a kit from Novak. Good quality seals

Once you try to fill 1/4” or more of a hole or gap, some sort or reinforcement is advised. You could use a good short strand filler like evercoat fibretech using the tape method advised above after applying por15 black. But first, keep at your seam sealer and strip it all out. I suspect you will find a TON more rust hiding in the atrocities know as MJ factory spot welded seams. If you don’t get it all removed, you will never be able to get to or eliminate that cancerous hidden rust.

Do yourself a favor and keep removing all that seam sealer. Especially the this giant blob in the corner. A multitool with a caulk blade works exceptionally well for removing the old sealer. I suspect you will find a lot more problem areas

Also check the connector on the blower motor switch.

You can use a ratchet strap to recenter it. But you shouldn’t be setting your track bar in final position until you get all your weight in the truck.

A 2wd ax15 would do nicely. As for cross referencing other vehicles, early dodge dakotas used the ax15. The Toyota R151 is very closely related but has the wrong input shaft.

Have you had some time to peruse the build threads on here? I know I’ve gathered a great deal of inspiration for builds from others’ work.

https://por15.com/pages/faqs

Por15 silver is your friend. Mask off the back side of the holes first.

The Mopar opda units are known to be defective. The crown opda is the upgraded version.

If you want to go 4” lift, you’ll need to consider your brakes, steering and suspension geometry. But if a 2” lifted Hilux struggles, an MJ on 32’s won’t do much better. For your commute I’d look more into traction aids (lockers) and a good front bumper.

Lots of good parts on that for the price

I ended up using the door portions of the weatherstripping but went with some nos Mopar seals for the cab opening. Perfect fit and worth tracking down.

Bashing on our mopars again

They should both be 44’s with e-lockers. Should be HD44’s with 8.9” ring gears also. Not bad axles but not a straight swap by any means. Different bolt patter at the wheels, different width and none of the bracketry will fill the MJ. I’m no pricing expert but I’d be looking maybe in the 1k range for both if they were in good shape. I wouldn’t want them if they had been running 37’s though. Not that they can’t handle them but it’s far more likely that someone had been abusing them.

X3 to the above.

BDS, Zone and Fox are all related companies. I’ve had good success with Zone and BDS and have run both. Anything over about the 2.5-3” mark is where you are going to need to start looking at many other factors, steering geometry, brakes, adjustable control arms, track bars etc. a simple puck and shackle lift along with some decent shocks and 31’s is a very good route

Find any leaks first. There is always a leaking seam somewhere as the factory’s way of sealing was to slop on some single part brushable seam sealer on the BACK side of those spot welded seams effectively trapping the moisture within the seam and causing it to rust. And there are a great many panel seams on that floor. Personally I wouldn’t choose a floor material because it works best with a leaking cab, I’d 100% fix the leaks first so I can use the floor material I want to use. The materials that would only exacerbate a leaking cab/floor issue would be vinyl, butyl, Dynamat or any other type of impermeable material. If you have floor leaks, those materials will only make matters worse.

Does it slip while in 4high? Does it slip in 4low? Have you tried popping the clutch to see if it will slip?

3/4” Dynapad. Works great. Just whatever you do, don’t go with the mass backing from ACC. The heat from the floor will make that stuff constantly outages and begin crumbling over time. Regular carpet jute works well too

You could probably rent a decent compressor for a day or two. For a trail rig I’d go single stage urethane vs base/clear. Use 2-part epoxy primer on bare metal before doing any filler work. Then shoot the same 2k primer reduced a bit as a sealer to seal all your body work and layers of previous finish.