ghetdjc320

A pair of shafts is cheap insurance to prevent that from happening. If you go with a torsion based limited slip (ie. Powertrax GripPro or Eaton TruTrac) they tend to be a bit gentler on axle shafts. Keep in mind though that if you break a shaft, even though you're wheel will probably stay on due to the pressed on rear bearings, the broken axle shaft piece can cause a lot of damage to your limited slip and or ring and pinion.

So this could be a bit of a rabbit hole. The BA10 is a delicate gear box for wheeling. I ran one for years but really babied it. If you want to start upgrading things, the combo you have will tend to snowball. If you stick with 33's and you're ok with 3.07 gears then repair what is needed and perhaps consider the mods listed above. Otherwise you're looking at gears, axles, transmission, possibly driveshafts, lockers etc. Keep in mind that your current light weight axles have significantly more clearance than most axle swaps. move up to a 35 tire and needed mods and you won't really be gaining any additional clearance under the diffs.

Swapping to one-piece axle shafts deletes the CAD system. So where the CAD system is on the axle, it's a solid cast iron part that includes the passenger side upper control arm bracket. If you go to a later style Dana 30 without the CAD, they used a flimsy stamped steel bracket for the passenger axle side of the upper control arm.

The time is approaching to get this project completed. So here's what's on the horizon: Transmission: Picked up an AX15 rebuild kit for my original tranny I'm using along with some Marlin Crawler upgrades. The rebuild kit has all Japanese bearings and synchro king synchronizers. Also ordered the updated 5th gear and hub set from Aisin which has some sort of improved design. I'll do a comparison once I get the old one out to see what they did. Engine: picked up a full set of genuine GM Performance top end gaskets, lifter trays, head bolts, and LS7 trays. Also picked up the latest Che bronze rocker trunnions. Still undecided if I want to do any power mods. Axles: Ordered a new front and set of ARB's along with their black diff covers. Already have the full set of 4.56 gears for these axles. Also will be adding Artec brackets to the front D30. Will have to see how extensive this goes. Rear bumper: Settled on the dirtworks DIY manta bumper and also the hitch. Wanted the DIY setup as I wanted to customize some features of the bumper. Audio: Picked up a class A/B 4 channel amp which I'm going to use to power the front door 5.25's and the dash mounted tweeters and I'll be using the rear channels in 2ohm to drive a pair of 6.5" subs in the b panels and plan on tuning them as mid-bass woofers (around 60-150hz range). I have some thoughts on how I want to install those but let's see what happens. If they sound good enough, I'll run them as my subs. If the are just going to be used to fill in the mid bass area, I'll sun a dedicated separate sub. Misc: picked up a whole bunch of odds and ends. Oracle rear tail lights with tinted lenses, Holley low-mount ac kit, exhaust components etc.

What gears do you currently have and what tire size do have/plan to run? You can grab some one-piece front shafts and run your existing D30 up front. The cast in passenger side upper control arm is really nice on the CAD axles. For the rear, you can get some upgraded 1541 shafts. There used to be some 4140 or 4340 shafts available for non c clip axles but I haven't seen them in quite some time. If you go with a trutrac or similar rear limited slip and set it up correctly, it should last a good long time as a driver/weekend warrior. That and a front lunchbox locker have been a pretty great combo for many. Some good quality front and rear covers can help add some strength to the pumpkins as well.

Almost sounds like an axle swap was done at some point to something narrower

Thanks for the link! Just picked it up

Agreed, if not more. This was an inspirational build for my project as well.

Very true, depending on what's available around you, a swap may be a cheaper alternative with more upgradeability down the road.

I will say, I wheeled plenty on a D35 with a built 4.0 and 4.56 gears on 33's (Cooper stt pro's). There are a few things that can make them last: use a limited slip or truetrac style setup vs a locker such as a Detroit or any of the lunchbox lockers. The smooth engagement of a limited slip helps with unnecessary R&P along with axle shaft strain/shock. Second run some 1541 shafts. I used a set from Revolution axle and gear. And third, you can run a truss setup if you like. I used one from TNT and it was a lightweight yet well engineered piece that was easy to install in just a couple of hours. Fourth, make sure your gears are setup correctly. Some will say don't invest anything into a D35 but there are some advantages to consider: it fits the truck, they are light weight, they have plenty of clearance under the pumpkin, they have good aftermarket support, you already have the axle, most of the parts are fairly cheap compared to other axles.

The HVAC controls can move up easily with pretty much zero mods. The trick is that most full depth radios won't fit in the HVAC slot because of the defroster duct that is back there. The defroster duct has a factory molded design to accommodate the radio in the stock location. The JVC radio and subsequent Sony double din setup all had shorter chassis and could fit it that area with a bit of wire management and a 90* antenna fitting. The problem with most flip up radios is they must be full depth to accommodate the screen. Personally, I think @Limeyjeeper found the best overall modern radio that fits in the factory location and has all the features we've come t expect. It's the Joying 6.2 single din with a 6.2" floating screen. These are android based head units and pack a ton of features not found in most head units such as digital coax and optical outputs for an amp. The screen fits without covering the HVAC controls and has a volume knob. They are a Chinese brand but are not the cheap flea bay models you see floating around. There are some great reviews on them online as well that go over most of the features. Overall, I do believe the double din with the shallower Sony chassis can be the best looking modern radio setup on an MJ but it lacks a lot of the features compared to the Joying unit. I will say though, the Joying 6.2" singe din units are getting harder to find (I have one sitting in the box for my Tomahawk project ). Perhaps @Limeyjeeper can chime in on how his radio has been working since he's had it installed for some time now. If you decide to go the double DIN route, I was very pleased with the Sony setup. Its design uses just a single din shallow chassis that can mount in the old HVAC area and you can then modify the bezel and air vent area to get a clean finish. Ive seen some delete the center vent but that vent is the best one in the MJ cab as it is closest to the evaporator and gets the most air flow.

Unfortunately, he doesn’t make XJ or MJ door panels. I just asked him a couple of weeks ago

Yes to questions 1-3. You can use a hydraulic press or even an air hammer. The pin is already a pressed in piece. You're just pressing it in a bit further to take up any slack. Get your e brake assembly out and you should be able to identify what yours is going to need.

Awesome, thank you

Any one able to take a tape measure out to their truck and measure the space on the bed floor between the wheel wells? Also could use the dimension inside the bed from the front bulkhead to the end of the floor near the tailgate. My truck is thousands of miles away at the moment

I had considered this for some time. It’s a nice all around option: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_020M508/Clarion-M508.html

A customer interiors guy once told me 1/8” birch is one of the best materials to use. For $125 though, I think I’d just grab pair of the ones in the link. I don’t see an option for the round speaker cutouts though as found on the higher trims.

Came across these the other day and was pretty stoked to see that someone is making these: https://www.williamwork.com/product-category/wwautoparts/wwjeepparts/jeepxjmj8496/?fbclid=IwY2xjawGtA7FleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHRTKELt_h9CNReGOhCr7T-n2dFriD7nxAPp7BmoXnnamok9SNlkguotmuw_aem_tI68xEjiQ4FVVSAWzX2Ftw

Fix your fuel leak at the rail. That’s critical

Easiest to replace the condenser now with the radiator out and just leave it capped off for now. From your pics, it looks like the lines to the expansion valve and evaporator are just removed and taped. You’ll want to flush out the evaporator and see if it holds pressure.

Probably another few thousand Commanche’s

I’d also go 4.56.

My bad I quoted the wrong user. Now I'm trying to remember who it is. The creator of it has the link to that page in his sig. Edit: found it. Its @derf

Going to leave this link here for this tool that @derf created a long time ago: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

That is the cargo lamp switch. You can unplug the connection from the back of the switch of the switch to deactivate the cargo lamp if the switch no longer works. As for the blinkers, this is a pretty common occurrence and tends to be either a bad socket or bulb though it can have other causes. If you turn on your hazard lights do they all flash as they should? .