ghetdjc320

what version is it? All red, black trim or chrome trim?

I’d say at 7 psi he is putting out more hp than a stock 4.0 on the top end.

Ahh gotcha. I need to re read the intro lol. Yep, match those measurements then

Makes sense. I would personally reset the preload and backlash since sometimes the factory didn’t even get it right. Once you set your backlash, set your preload then double check your backlash to make sure it is still within spec.

Do you have an afr gauge? If so, how is it running?

Nice! The bobbed bed is a nice touch also. Split second recommended the ftc1. It would be spliced into the injector outputs and distributor outputs at the harness and has an internal 2 bar map. There are 2 map tables. One for timing and one for fuel. It sounds like that sort of setup would work but I have no one here who can dunk it to really get it tuned

I believe they are the same as the door panels. It just so happens I have seen those and they are NOS to boot: https://teamcherokee.com/front-door-speaker-grille-pair-oem-nos-jeep-cherokee-comanche-1987-1996/ not 100% sure if they fit the rear also though. At some point in time I can measure them if no one else chimes in

What kind of boost are you running on the stock ecu? Any upgrades to fuel or timing?

I contacted an eBay seller who is selling turbo manifolds for the XJ along with water cooled turbos. He seems to know his stuff well. He informed me that they are working on an adaptor harness that will allow us to run a newer obd2 ecu in our old obd1 trucks. Interesting concept. I’ve attached his message for reference.

I bought my lines from them in kit form and just marked the length and position of the connection and took it to my local ac shop to compress the fittings. Used their kit twice and it has worked well both times

No problem. I did discover that on XJs at some point in time between 91-96 they used a much less resistant aluminum trim material. You can actually damage it quite easily with the torch. The oem trim on the MJs and early XJs though is much more resistant

I'm glad you enjoyed you enjoyed your nv3550. It’s not a bad tranny at all but history has shown it is about the same as the ax15. It is not an upgrade imho. And consider that your ax15 is quite an older version. The ax15 is still in production for a reason

Hello all, Have been playing around with the idea of adding a turbo to my built 4.0. My build thread has most of the motor specs so I won’t go into detail. My MJ is a 91 and I had originally thought of going the supercharged route. However, I prefer the adjustability of the turbo and also wanted to run an intercooler. I also want to keep my ac and a turbo just has more placement options as well. I plan on running the boostwerks turbo manifold but want to get suggestions and feedback regarding fuel and timing control. I plan to keep the stock ecu and am thinking of several options: 1. Split Second FTC1 (Pricey but control timing and fuel in boost) 2. Split Second Auxilary injector (would add fuel in boost but would not control timing) 3. Running a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to manually add fuel based on boost Not sure which one of these options would be best but I’m looking for any first hand experience you may have. Looking to run a max of 10lbs of boost and I’m at sea level. Also looking for turbo size recommendations. Seen different views about going with a t3, t3/t4, 50 trim, 60 trim. Any feedback on what has worked for you? I like the idea of a water cooled turbo also (not the intercooler, the actual turbo). I am not considering an engine swap or any other options other than turbo at this point. I do have experience setting up stand alone fuel injection and can do basic tuning. Other than that there is really no Dyno tuning here on Guam so I would likely have to do a remote tuning session with splitsecond to get everything tuned correctly. Whatever input you can offer is much appreciated. Thanks

Good advice. I would also add that you should take plenty of pictures of the contact patter and every measurement you take for reference.

Going to use a turbo manifold or just put a flange on a stock manifold? Boostwerks is running a special on their manifold

Do you know what you are going to run for your turbo yet?

Sounds good, let us know if you have questions

Hey guys, just providing a quick update. It has indeed been very difficult to nail down the exact material for the switch. It needs to have a degree of transparency, light diffusion and texture which is difficult to find. I have convinced a manufacturer to send us samples of every style transparent and semi-transparent film they produce. We will find as close to an exact match as possible. Hope to have these ready in about a month. I intend to have these truly be “replicas”. I have tracked down every other item, even the bluish green semi transparent paint that provides the right hue for the symbol. I’m focusing on the fog ligh/cargo light and trans/sports bar covers. I would like to add the extended idle as well as the sports bar only for the manual tranny models. If there were ever any other options that you would like to see please let me know. I don’t really want to start producing endless amounts of “one-off” pieces. If there is enough demand for a piece it could be produced though. Will post back when the right top layer material has been selected.

You shouldn’t need to reset pinion depth unless it wasn’t right from the get go. This would be the time to replace the pinion and carrier bearings though but it sounds like that is not a feasible option at this point. That’s neat that it has the adjusters. Similar setup to a ford 9”

Agreed. An engine overhaul is easier than gears if it’s your first time (at least it was to me). Once you wrap your head arround everything that is needed though it’s not too bad. Same goes for transmissions. You just have to think in 3D when it comes to gears lol

It can be done in your driveway or in the trail. I’ve done it in the driveway before in about 10-15minutes. Remove the driveshaft, remove the yoke nut and yoke. Use a chisel or flat head screw driver and a hammer and knock loose the lip of the seal. Pull it out and replace. You may have a splined rubber washer that will need to be replaced as well.

Awesome work and great write up! If i ever head back stateside I’ll do this also.

NV3550 was 00-04 and was replaced by the NSG370. AX15 was in the TJ from 97-99. The NV3550 is really no better or worse but does have a slightly lower 1st gear. Good tranny

Also, you don’t need to pull the pinion to replace the seal

If the 8.25 uses a crush sleeve design than you will have to set you pinion depth using a new crush sleeve. There is a lot of input on this thread so here is my $.02 and I’m sure the rest will provide valuable input. If you are only doing the carrier than you should only have to deal with backlash and preload. If the carrier already has the shims inside of the bearings than you are going to need several special tools aside from just a dial indicator. You will not hit the right pattern using the shims from another axle. That being said, I’ve seen many poorly installed gear setups where they do just that. As for people seeing different version of where the shims go, factory d30 HP will be inboard of the bearings “if done correctly”. Factory d44 with no locker just open carrier will also be inboard of the bearings “if done correctly”. D35 will be outboard “if done correctly”. I do not know where they should be on a 8.25. You will sometimes see shims places on the inside AND outside of a carrier. In those cases, the outside shims are normally just for preload. I have also seen very loose carriers with almost zero preload that almost fall out of the housing. Aftermarket or non-open carriers will have their own requirements which should be followed. Case spreaders are used on occasion to install preload shims outside the bearings. There should be no need to use one to set only your backlash. You can also permanently damage the case with them if you are not careful. You should keep your dial indicator on the case to know how far you are spreading it.