ghetdjc320

No worries. Just trying to see if 2” would be enough. Granted, I could just run the whole XJ pack under the MJ main but would like the MJ overload

Were you soa when you did that swap? If so, what’s your rocker heigh just in front of the rear whee to the ground? Or whatever other non-flare reference point you want to use. I’ll check mine for comparison

Thanks for the feedback. What about swapping in the whole explorer pack. I could redrill the centering hole back 1/2” if needed. They are specd at 6.5” free arch and 1100lb capacity with is pretty similar load to the MJ 4 leaf pack. The XJ is specd at 745lb load with 6.375 free arch. As I mentioned before, I can grab either set from rock auto.

There is also a rubber channel just above the rear window that acts as a support.

I never buy a stock replacement belt. Loosen the tensioner about 2/3-3/4 of the way and get a string to follow the belt layout. Then measure the string and go to the auto parts store. Request a 6 rib serpentine belt that is right around that length. I believe it’s somewhere around 93-94”

Thanks Pete! Just to clarify, I will be buying a new set of springs for either an xj or exploder depending on your recommendations.

Hey all, wanted to get your feedback on my options. Running 33’s and trimmed fenders with Napier flares. Have a rubicon express coil setup up front that is giving me about 3.5” of lift. The front sits just right but the back is SOA with stock springs and is at least 2” too high. Because of my location and logistics, my only feasible options are: 1. Run explorer leafs (let me know the year and model to get) 2. Run an MJ main and explorer bastard back 3. Run an MJ main and XJ springs. Don’t have any parts yards here I can get parts from so anything I get will come from rock auto and ship straight to me. I don’t mind a slight rake but would prefer to keep things level. About 500lbs is the most I ever have in the bed and it’s not that often. Let me know which option you’d recommend. Would like to net maybe 4” total lift out back. Pic for reference

I used a heat gun on an old set. If your not trying to salvage the old lenses it makes it much easier. I bet this will be a complete housing though

I ran 3 Webers in the past. Does yours have an electric choke? There are a few variations of the Weber 38. All are fairly self explanatory. Vacuum to distributor, fuel in (regulated to 3.5psi), electric choke line and throttle cable/kickdown if applicable. Can probably dig up a diagram if you have the exact model handy

That would be awesome if they did

Wow, I sold mine cheap .

There will probably be some “panic” sales from some of the hoarders out there. NOS will always fetch a higher price though if history is any indication. I kind of look at it like: what’s happening with nos tail lights will be happening soon enough for the whole MJ. Say the lights are worth 100% original price plus inflation, that would put them up at several hundred each. Add supply and demand and your at probably 200% or more over original pricing. I don’t think the price of the tail lights is the underlying issue (but I have seen some that seem ridiculously priced). It’s the price of the truck that doesn’t add up. The market should start driving up the cost of these trucks but the fact that most people who see an MJ think it was some sort of owner modified Cherokee speaks volumes. The average Joe is buying an MJ because “they look cool”. To them, they shouldn’t be paying much for an 30ish year old truck. But only MJ collectors are buying NOS lights. Two very different markets and they will probably start merging soon given how many MJs are left.

I ran the waggy 44 with a rodeo 44 rear. Awesome combo and I have no doubt that it could handle 37’s but would probably benefit from axle shaft upgrades

You’d have to redesign the water outlets, run a coil pack ignition and get a new cam sensor setup. It could definitely be done but by someone who owns a CNC shop with a huge budget and a love of the 4.0. Essentially they would be building a BMW engine and there’s nothing wrong with that

I suppose the lens is better than nothing! I spoke with them back in March and they said no.

Yeah he can get you the best setup for sure

A cross flow head would probably be one of the best bolt on NA mods for this I6 but would be quite a challenging design. At some point though it’s probably worth just swapping in a different engine. I’ve considered that for my far distant future build. I think also if electric superchargers really take off that could be a neat power adder. Supposedly Garrett was coming out with one.

I like that late model center console. Been thinking about doing the same

Good to know. I just copied and pasted the vin they sent me for the parts truck. Thanks!

Very good points. The tire weight difference between 35/37 can be really significant. MJs sure do look good though on 37’s with the right lift

Almost identical. Same lift but the intake lobe has a different angle. I’ve never used a stock renix cam but I assume it would give just a bit more vacuum than the HO model.

I ran the 2229 cam and the profile was nice. Vacuum was good and idle was smooth. Ran it on a 4.2 “mini stroker” (232 crank in 4.0 block). The torque curve was a bit higher than the stock HO cam but it really didn’t give me what I was looking for. I replaced it with the comp 235 cam and it was much better off the line and and midrange. I was running stand alone ecu as well though with ported intake and Gibson header. It may do better in a stock configuration. Would also have been nice to degree that cam a bit to dial it in.

We have an ongoing discussion about some cams in this thread: Checkout Summit for the Mopar cams. They had the best pricing by far iirc. Edit: never mind, they are out of stock. You could easily have another manufacturer grind that same spec though. The only nice thing I liked about the Mopar cam was the lobe width which was about the same as stock. I believe Crane and lunati also have similar width. Most other manufacturers will have narrower cam lobes but they still work just fine as long as they are broken in properly.

This was probably my 10th 4.0 based build. I just started memorizing the specs after a while

And here are all the known Jeep 4.0 cam specs: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm Dino Savala keeps that site uodated along with the stroker site mentioned above. And for any 91+ 4.0 tuning contact chris@christuned.com His tuning of obd 1 is quite amazing and also tunes obd 2 with HP tuners.