ghetdjc320

If your running the return less system than I’m assuming fpr in the tank and 49psi at the rail. These are the wrong injectors for you. You will be overfueled. Not that the ecu can’t eve learn the new injectors but the injector pulse width will need to be a good amount below spec. You need injectors that flow about 21ish lbs @49psi for a stock engine.

If your going to be replacing the heater core and still have AC, I’d replace the evaporator at the same time while you have it torn apart. The job is all relative. If you done a dash removal before, it’s a pretty quick job. If you’ve never tackled it you may spend most of your time looking what what bolt/screw needs to come out next. Plan a solid day for the swap if you have all your parts and tools.

That’s pretty much what I just said. Except closed cell foam is worse than jute for trapping water.

As far as I know, the 97+ doors have to be swapped to run the newer seals. If the floors have been replaced and don’t have any leaks then many use a seam sealer and/or por15. Personally I wouldn’t use bedliner unless that will be the final surface (no carpet).

In other words, fix your leaks first lol. Minuit and I will both give you a ton of info on the subject (probably tmi). I do have to disagree with chucking the jute backing though. Although closed cell foam will not absorb moisture it also doesn’t “breathe” at all. So basically, it traps moisture under the carpet much more than the more absorbent jute backing which, although it absorbs moisture, also acts as a bit of a wick over time. Noico does work fine as well for dampening panels. There are several aspects to creating a quieter cab. In regards to wind noise, I doubt you are wanting to redesign the cab of your truck. The 97+ doors have a updated sealing design that is indeed quieter. The issue is gaps as Minuit pointed out. Gaps (particularly mismatched gaps) cause turbulence which creates wind noise. Make sure you have all your seals in place. Of particular note is the oem A pillar wind guard which does help quiet down wind noise a decent amount. If you want to go beyond that, build a cab within a cab. Isolate, dampen and absorb. Basic principles of all acoustic treatment.

I’d still recommend getting closer to the right injector size but need to know your fuel system first. If you run the obd2 fuel setup your ecu will have quite a fuel trim. @Cummins48 interested in the crank sensors you have. Would like to advance timing on my HO motor before socketing the ecu.

Your going to an obd2 setup which runs a return less fuel rail with a fpr in the tank set to 49psi. Are you going to go with that system or work with an HO style stock system? If you install those injectors with the higher fuel rail pressure your injectors will be quite oversized. Any obd2 swap is complex but quite doable (but I wouldn’t call it a simple swap). Just let us know what you will be running for fuel system (fuel rail, fpr/sender)

I used dynamat on the floor and installed acc carpet with mass backing. If you can be more specific of what noise you are trying to eliminate that would be helpful. Are your referring to road noise, engine noise, wind noise, improving sound for your speakers? All have different solutions. You can make your MJ quiet as a new Mercedes but it will take plenty of work. Here are a few basic ideas: Get rid of any rattles in the cab first. Listen carefully and try to track down any loose panels or components. Make sure there are no open holes in your firewall that lead into the cab. Make sure your window seals and door seals are nice and tight. Grease your chasis and suspension components to get rid of squeaks. Check you bushing and also check for any missing body plugs that lead to the cab. Check for exhaust leaks. Once all those things are eliminated then you can move in to treating the cab

So are you running the return less fuel system with the fpr in the tank? Or are you running an external fpr? If so, what pressure are you setting it to? Your harness should be for ev6 connectors not ev1. I’d grab an HP tuner and license and start tuning that engine my self or grab Chris from christuned to get it tuned for you remotely. That will make for the most efficient running engine

What is this going on and what year electronics are you running?

Looks like a nice little project truck. Looks like someone has done a 97+ front clip. Has a sliding rear window which a nice option. Other than that, the speaker mounting in the b panels is sloppy as is the fender trimming. As Pete mentioned, pull the carpet to check for rust.

@MiNi Beast They’re on their way . @Raven what is this going on? Those injectors you posted are basically stock injectors but with a 4 hole setup for better atomization for a 91-95 HO setup where you have 39psi at the rail at wot.

Oh no!!! I can’t believe I missed that! He was a super helpful guy.

Yes, pull all of your indicator and parking light bulbs and clean out all the sockets. Check the bulbs very carefully and replace if in any doubt. Use dialectic grease when installing also. I had a tail light bulb go out and cause the blinker to stay lit every time the lights where on. The filament in the bulb was shorting from the parking light to the turn/brake signal side.

Have you checked your bulbs and sockets? Seriously, try it...

Never seen those as a factory option but I’m not the guru when it comes to those. Tagging @HOrnbrod & @Pete M who would probably know. Looks aftermarket to me. I would be ticked that they made hold in the body to install those.

The old Griffin Jeep Speed radiator was a 3” core. The only thing similar nowadays that I’ve come across is the Novak. The Jeep speed crowd would probably have more info on options.

AX15 or NV3550 would both be fine. The external slave bellhousing started in 94. Personally I’d just spring for a new ax15. Went through several uses and rebuilds before I got a good one. Keep in mind too that the XJ/MJ ax15 clocks the transfer case down slightly for better clearance although you can make the YJ/TJ version work too.

Nice find!

If you haven’t tried this already, use some speed bleeders and pump at least a few oz of fluid through each wheel cylinder/caliper. The oem bleeding process is a pain but it’s the only effective way to get the stock system bled.

AX15, NV3550 and NSG370 all bolt up easily but as jdog mentioned, let us know the use and application.

Check each one of you indicator lights and sockets. 90% of the time that’s where the problem is

Even the Mopar Middle East radiator was only a 2 core 1.5” thick (2x3/4” cores). The Novak is 3” core with no tranny cooler provision. I’m just not sure you could get the condenser in place. Interesting info on the Evans. So basically if you runs Evans coolant you need more radiator capacity it sounds like.