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@Pete M would have the most up to date info on a liberty (KJ) axle swap (Plus he has one for sale that is 4.10 geared but 27 spline). I've done a bunch of 8.8's and 44's. The 8.25 may have coil buckets that will need to be cutoff depending on the vehicle it came from. You'll need to get new spring pads welded on and set the correct pinion angle. Not hard at all but will require at least a good grinder and welder.

The 8.25 is better for 33's than an 8.8 imho. 8.8 is just too narrow for MJ's and too fat of an axle for 33's. Add the thin axle tubes, and c-clips and its really not a great option compared to the 8,25. I run a super 35 that works great with tons of clearance. For a front axle, most 4cyl D30 fronts will have 4.10's. Look for an XJ or MJ 4.10 D30 front (ideally without the vacuum disconnect-but your front driveshaft will now spin constantly). A TJ axle will also bolt in but is a low pinion axle and would be a downgrade. If you're going with the regear option, go 4.56. You won't regret it. And if you swap axles, that old 44 will have some resale value to help cover the costs.

The difference is nice when it comes to crawl ratio and acceleration. It’s been my experience that the 4.0’s like to run mid to high 2k when cruising. With my built engine, 4.56 gears and aw4 I’m still getting close to 20mpg when cruising.

Congrats! Didn’t realize how young some of our members are but that’s awesome. I seem to recall a thread here somewhere describing the person behind the screen name. Anyone remember where that thread is or what’s it’s called? Had some interesting info

Lots of history over here on the westernmost frontier

I can’t see you pic but check this out for replacement parts:

@derf Has a magical calculator for gear ratios, tire size, tranny and tcase combo and more on that link in his sig. That is one of the best resources for figuring out what gearing to go with. I’ve been using it for years on my builds.

Yeah that’s a good idea. You can always add an Aussie locker up front without messing with your gears at all. Have the full carrier locker of your choice installed along with the gears in the rear. 4.56 is a really nice ratio for 33’s as @Pete M pointed out. I have zero complaints with them and would have no issue going to 35’s if I chose to

Big investment especially if your doing just one set of axles

I’d recommend 4.56 gears for 33’s. A touch high for 33’s but they would also work for 35’s. What gears do you have currently? If 3.73 or below in the rear you will have to do a carrier swap or use thick cut gears (preferred). The Dana 30 carrier break is also 3.73 so any numerically higher gearset will need a new carrier. Now is the time to consider full lockers (arb, Detroit, Eaton, truetrac etc). I get all my gears and install kits from revolution axle and gear. They used to be superior gear and have great products and service. If your going to install the gears yourself you’ll need quite a few specialty tools. This will not be a cheap endeavor unless you can get free/cheap parts and labor

Is it just the passenger side? I found water pooling just under the blower motor cutout. Added a 1/4” hole there to drain out the basin. Zero issues since

I ran regular 10w30 Dino oil and it was quiet and smooth

That’s a neat tool! I always use vice grips

Novak, Mishimoto or the old jeepspeed Griffin radiator. The Novak is the biggest core and has no trans cooler built in. Also uses an inline filler cap. Mishimoto seems to be a good all around. The new cold case radiators look promising as well

I used 5’ and 6’ -6 an lines. Perfect size and the moroso cooler already has -6 connectors and the cooler fits perfect just below the radiator support. Just an idea

When I was building a 95 rodeo axle I called Dutchman axle and they sent me a set of chrome shafts for it but the shaft specs they had were wrong. The issue is the center bore on the drum/disk. It’s to large to drill the 5 on 4.5 pattern. Options are 2 piece wheel adapters (i ran a set from ez accessories for about $200 that worked great) but you’d add a fair amount of width. You could also do custom axle shafts and rotors but that’s also pricey and a pain. I recommend converting the from to 6 on 5.5. The old Reid knuckles used to work great for this but ultimately a waggy front is what you want. They are some beefy axles and you can throw in some warn hubs. The D52 calipers fit right on them and they are just a nice all around axle to work with. If you want to stick with stock wheel patterns than an 8.25 is my recommendation. Not keen on the exploder 8.8. I’m running a super 35 with a tnt truss and am loving the clearance and strength on 33’s. Guys around here are running 14 bolts on 35’s or bald 37’s and I have so much more clearance under my axles. 8.8 is narrow, thin walled, small brakes, oversized pumpkin c clip axle. Imho they can stay in the junkyards but several have had good success with them. I would consider building one if I wanted to run 37’s on some nice stock pattern wheels I already had (like some Method or Raceline beadlocks). Otherwise I’d drop in another 98+ Rodeo/passport axle and a waggy front end.

I went through this myself and finally replaced the whole system. I used braided an -6 lines along with a moroso tranny oil cooler (has a built in filter and does multiple passes). Converted the whole thing to an fittings and have had zero leaks now. Cost about $400 for the cooler and all fittings but it’s virtually bullet proof now. If you somewhere that gets cold than it is recommended to keep your tranny cooler in the radiator to pre-heat the tranny oil on cold days. You can also run the an lines and fittings with the radiator cooler. Here is a nice write up that I used for some part numbers: http://there4.io/2019/07/17/Jeep-XJ-Transmission-Cooler-Line-Ugrade/

I use a JBA stainless down pipe for a TJ. It routes the exhaust in front of the oil pan sump instead of crossing the bellhousing. Works very well.

If your fine with cutting off the old brackets of the axle, grab a 98+ rodeo/passport rear axle. 63” wms and would fit the wider rear of the MJ well. Those are the HD44’s and are very stout.

Awesome, thanks!

Anyone have the measurement for the space between the back of the center console and the rear bulkhead? Just need to see the distance to the narrowest point between the console and that rear wall. The center console in my truck is out right now and i'm gathering the info for an audio project. Thanks!

Just in case you want to spring for some shocks specifically setup for your rig I’ve heard great things about these guys: https://accutuneoffroad.com

I always run thick cut gears in my D44’s so carrier break isn’t an issue. The TJR air lockers all ran the 3.73 and numerically lower carrier size with thick cut 4.10 gears. Same goes for all the rodeo D44 axles. They’re thick cut gearsets with 4.10, 4.56, 4.88 etc.

I'm waiting for a 2dr gladiator with a diesel. Imho the 4 door jk jl and jt are hideous

Just two quick notes: my rubber brown dog mounts still vibrated more than oem but less than the poly ones I have now. I did like the extra support the brown dogs incorporate. The oem motor mounts are still well stocked and aren’t really a nos part. They just superseded the part number. The current one is 52019201AC. I got mine from Mopar wholesale parts online but almost everyone carries that part number.