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The drivers side kick panel is a tough location for a speaker due to the e brake being there. You could go with some 4x6 in the lower dash trim though.

Should be noted also that a good 4 link provides many more benefits than just improved flex. A good set of leafs can flex quite a bit as well. But the axle geometry and stability with a properly designed 4 link are better than any leaf design. On the flip side, if your using your truck as a truck and hauling items in it, leaf springs are a super solid system.

I wasn’t recommending them. Just saying that if you are only after droop, they will give you that. That being said, the idea of revolvers being “horrible” is subjective. If you learn how to wheel and drive with them they can be just fine.

Doesn’t do any good for a wheel to drop if there isn’t any significant weight on it. Lockers are more important. If you want droop just grab some teraflex revolver shackles or similar. No big advantage though.

The trick with gears is just to think in 3d. Think about adjustments on all 3 axis then just add the necessary preload.

I also run the JCR rear bumper. Dirt Bound also makes a nice unit but it doesn’t give as much corner protection as the JCR. There are some subtle differences between the two. Also seen a new Gladiator bumper installed and it doesn’t look too bad at all.

Agreed, surprisingly I’ve actually gained MPG’s going with 4.56 over 4.10 on 33’s. The 4.0 torque is down low but a little higher rpm seems to get it to peak efficiency at cruising speed (which I haven’t seen in a long time here in island lol)

Currie, Savvy, metal cloak, and tons others. Just get adjustable arms for a TJ, XJ or MJ. They are all the same. Just stay away from the fixed aftermarket ones.

I believe the eliminator also did not have a 4x4 option until 90’ iirc.

So basically he used the carbon paper in lieu of a repair sleeve it sounds like correct? Makes sense if your crank was worn. I’ve always had a new crank going in at the same time.

That short deck height is nice. The I6 is a pretty tall engine. Makes me think a Diesel engine would be a real possibility.

Yep that would make sense. Though nowadays graphite lube is easier to find than carbon paper lol

What did they say didn’t fit?

I’ve used both adams driveshaft and Tom woods. Both have outstanding CS and products. Can’t go wrong with either.

Have you been keeping an eye on your alternator output voltage? Start up you keep cold na check the alternator voltage. Then let it run with all the accessories on for a few minutes and check it again.

Here are some more options and info: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/engine-to-transmission/ford/windsor-v8/kit-fmax15/

I’d recommend efi, grab an adapter for an ax15 and throw in a Jeep transfer case.

You just need the switch base for the left side if the column. A fully optioned MJ has fog lights, cargo lamp, tranny power/comfort and sports bar lights. If you need the bezels or switch based let me know.

I could see that being where the carbon paper comes into play possibly.

4.56 here also. I’ve been running al things revolution since the came out. Used superior before that. Gears setup very nicely. 4.56 is great all round. Excellent on 33’s and even decent in 35’s.

Interested to see what is done with the carbon paper. I’ve personally never had a seal leak and have built 4 4.0 engines both stock and strokers. What seal are you using?

Auto custom carpets makes a nice set for MJs. Any new carpet will have to set for a while to perfectly conform to the floor.

I’m still keeping a close eye out for a chief but would like one with 4x4.

Auto parts stores rent them