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Yep, just ordered a pair myself along with a smattering of other oem odds and ends parts

Just ordered up a fresh set of parts from Iron Man. Going to do their track bar system with cross brace with 1” drop (will also use the 1” drop pitman arm). Also got the steering box brace. Looking forward to the install probably near the end of next month when it all comes in. Picked up some NOS Mopar odds and ends also. Pics to come

Each different frequency responds differently to the different materials and obstructions found behind your seat. Bench case buckets also makes quite a difference. The higher the frequency, the more it gets absorbed by things like upholstery and carpet. The lower frequencies are not nearly as susceptible to this. That’s why components aren’t the way to go in the b pillar. You need to get your higher frequencies up physically higher so they aren’t muffled and drowned out. The midbass frequencies will sound just find in the stock b pillar location. As has been suggested, try components in the back with tweeters mounted higher and either components or coax speakers up front.

Have you tried rock auto? They are super cheap and ship to me clear out in Guam for cheap. Canada should be much cheaper

Here you go. NOS and dirt cheap: https://teamcherokee.com/front-tweeter-speaker-set-oem-jeep-cherokee-1991-1996/

Lol, apologies, just saw that. I thought you were commenting on the OP’s issue.

Doesn’t @Minuit have them?

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Out of the oven and into the fire You may just have a bad slave cylinder. And just to clarify for the OP, there is no pre-bled master/slave combo for the internal slave setups.

Id try to on get any high frequencies higher up on the b pillar since they will be more absorbed by back of the seat and any other obstructions. Components work better for that purpose in the b pillar.

I did front and rear 5.25 Morel components & a sub

Negative. No plastic cut. Just had to mod the original bracket. The existing speaker grill is decent size and works well with 5.25 woofers

Everything is relative, but one must have some good tools and skill to accomplish this. The OP is new to the scene, learning very quickly, but let’s make sure to not oversimplify this rebuild. I’d do gear changes all day long before doing an ax15 rebuild. I’ve done one once and it was not a fun day. Ended up just getting another used tranny since I botched a synchro install on 2nd gear and didn’t realize it until I had it installed back in my Jeep. The OP hopefully won’t have the same issue. That was a painfully expensive effort lol. I’d prefer to setup gears all day long.

I did Morel 5.25 components in all 4 locations. The rears will take the 5.25 using the TJ 5.25 adapter from metra. You will about 1/4” of spacing to get them to fit just right and will need to modify the stock brackets a bit. Pretty easy to do. Add an amp and they will come alive. The tweeters should be mounted higher. I’m not going to get too specific with where I decided to put mine because it will spark an acoustic conversation that I don’t have time to discuss at the moment. Plus I’m about 8k miles away from my rig lol. All in all though, it’s one of the cleanest installs you can do using factory locations. Coaxial speakers behind the seat aren’t in a very good position. Components can be pretty decent though and of course, they can look like a factory install. Sound control is really key to getting the best performance out of a system like that.

An AX15 complete rebuild is quite a task. I’d recommend just doing the clutch and perhaps swapping to the 94+ bell-housing so you can use the external slave setup. If you do, use a Luk rep-set or HD clutch and a Timken throw out bearing. Rock auto carries the clutch and timken throw out bearing

I prefer just adding the check valve to the hvac line after the canister to eliminate other possible vacuum leak locations.

If it’s a 92 then it has an internal slave cylinder. Clutch change is in order. But try bleeding it first just to be sure

If it was driven that way before you bought it, it will likely need new synchros. A clutch going out will typically slip but won’t keep you from getting into gear. Getting into gear requires that the clutch fully engages. So checking the master and slave cylinder would be were i would start as suggested. They are directly responsible for getting the clutch engaged and disengaged. What year is the Jeep and does it only happen in 1-2?

So with that info the actual lift should be about 3” over stock.

I don’t believe it’s built into the canister. Even so though, that hvac line should have its own check valve. That’s absolutely true though. An engine under load will produce almost no vacuum and the default position on that vacuum motor is defrost.

The SURR kit is a top shelf quality kit by a reputable company that stands behind the product. To me its worth it. Plus, it really does come with a great assortment of fittings including some that are tough to find.

A PDC is the power distribution center. Not sure about renix years but they were standard starting in 91+. It houses most of the relays and high amp fuses for all the electrical. I repined my 91 pdc and have my sub amp, arb comp, aux lights, aux e-fans and more all running through it in addition to all the factory components (ac, fuse block, starter, fuel pump, headlights, alt power etc)

This was a wiring project but you can see the larger Wilwood valve mounted with the drop bracket onto an 01 XJ booster and master. Best non-hydroboost brakes I’ve had so far

Get this kit from summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urr-br-ez316?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2ZaGBhBoEiwA8pfP_jl7-A7cMNJ7i74XoN6F3EDdn1ejZx-FK8gZGZeTg9kvIMZeFVOIjxoCJFEQAvD_BwE You’ll have everything you need to revamp your brakes and it’s a super quality kit with us made copper nickel line that has thicker walls than the Amazon stuff. Also, you can go with the Wilwood valve above or you can do the larger Wilwood valve which has the plumbing for bothe front and rear built in. Also has a nifty little bracket you can get for a clean install