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This is a question for @Minuit. He just posted the spec somewhere on here within the last week or so

The MJ cab has an odd frequency response as do compact self powered under-seat style subs. I ran an alpine 8” powered and it’s a pretty powerful unit but has bad frequency response. Going to switch to something else.

For those who have done the Wilwood brake swap on the front D30: I just spoke to Wilwood tech support and they could t answer this either. Are you supposed to use the early or late style unit bearing? I know there is a shoulder height difference and since the Wilwood caliper need to center on the rotor (and comes with the shims to do so) I am wondering whether or not the late or early style bearing needs to be used. The install video they have is on a late model TJ using the early style knuckles. Anyone have this info?

Welcome aboard! The Comanche has 4 speaker locations. The 2 front speakers are in the door and are 5.25” speakers. The other two are 4x6 and are in the b pillar corner behind the rear seat near the floor. Many here like to keep everything stock or at least keep the stock locations with updated features. @Minuit is our resident radio guru and sells factory radios that have been completely refurbished and upgraded with really nice modern features. It’s the best of both worlds. Personally, I didn’t keep the stock head unit or even the location though I do appreciate a factory appearance. I retrofit a double din Sony car play unit with backup cam into my dash. It requires a lot of plastic work so if your not comfortable with plastic cutting and welding tools I wouldn’t recommend it. Then of course there are countless custom options and systems that have been built.

Not sure if you have to get your emissions system inspected and it has to be 100% stock. If not, grab an aftermarket magnaflow spun stainless cat. works great and very economical. Your 88 came with a cat and it looks just like the one you posted

You may find those shocks are too long. It’s a bit of a pain but it’s always best to wait until you get your lift on before measuring for shocks. Flipping that u bolt plate probably very nearly kept your original shocks in the original location. It may even be shorter???

The factory knee panel tweeter location actually isn’t bad for the fronts and provides decent imaging between the woofer and tweeter. Another possible thought with your system would be to run the components up front all in factory locations and add some Hertz or similar 5.25 mid bass drivers behind the b panels in the modded brackets. You could also fab up a bracket for a free air 6.5 woofer. With bucket seats though, components in back really do sound good with properly positioned tweeters. Provided that their is not a ton of crap behind the seats. @Minuit is right though, these trucks are loud and there isn’t much to quiet them down. I’ve also gone through significant effort (disassembling sheet metal panels and shells) to quiet down the cab and help contain the spl. It is dramatically better than stock but still not as good as a semi-used bmw.

Awesome, upload pics once you get them in and I’ll do the same when I get back. It’s great to have them posted for future reference

Added a NOS 28mm front XJ sway bar and an Addco 468 rear bar with extended links for my soa lift. John Wright @addco was super helpful to get the bar ordered up. He said they still make all the Comanche bars but that they don’t stock them or show them in their store anymore. Also, for future reference, there is an addco 570 front bar for the Comanche and a 516 for the XJ. So far I’ve only ever heard about people using the 516 on the front of their MJ’s and reporting it was too stiff. The 570 was designed to complement the 468 rear and has the same OD but is slightly softer. That being said, I found my NOS 28mm bar and opted to use that for the front after seeing @HOrnbrod’s post.

Sure thing, but I won’t be back home until early July.

I welded on some new curved shock tabs from ruff stuff. But I believe many have reused the old ones as well

Good to know, I planned to use the Morel tweeters in these brackets also

Yeah, it takes some adjusting but once it’s adjusted it’s a super smooth operation. Much better than all the factory linkage.

Funny you should ask. I have the rugged ridge ones and they don’t fit the floor well due to the extra floor brace running up the center. The weathertech, quadratec and RR all have the same “liner” style design that, although it fits the general shape of the floor, doesn’t contour like it should. I just picked up some Husky 51082 liners. They are the closest to oem Mopar slush mats I have ever seen aside from the actual “Jeep” logo. These mats come in (3) colors and the part numbers are 51081, 51082, and 51083. Because they don’t have the “liner” lip, they can contour to the floor just like oem much better and are true slush mats. That’s the best thing I’ve personally found so far.

Yep, just ordered a pair myself along with a smattering of other oem odds and ends parts

Just ordered up a fresh set of parts from Iron Man. Going to do their track bar system with cross brace with 1” drop (will also use the 1” drop pitman arm). Also got the steering box brace. Looking forward to the install probably near the end of next month when it all comes in. Picked up some NOS Mopar odds and ends also. Pics to come

Each different frequency responds differently to the different materials and obstructions found behind your seat. Bench case buckets also makes quite a difference. The higher the frequency, the more it gets absorbed by things like upholstery and carpet. The lower frequencies are not nearly as susceptible to this. That’s why components aren’t the way to go in the b pillar. You need to get your higher frequencies up physically higher so they aren’t muffled and drowned out. The midbass frequencies will sound just find in the stock b pillar location. As has been suggested, try components in the back with tweeters mounted higher and either components or coax speakers up front.

Have you tried rock auto? They are super cheap and ship to me clear out in Guam for cheap. Canada should be much cheaper

Here you go. NOS and dirt cheap: https://teamcherokee.com/front-tweeter-speaker-set-oem-jeep-cherokee-1991-1996/

Lol, apologies, just saw that. I thought you were commenting on the OP’s issue.

Doesn’t @Minuit have them?

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Out of the oven and into the fire You may just have a bad slave cylinder. And just to clarify for the OP, there is no pre-bled master/slave combo for the internal slave setups.

Id try to on get any high frequencies higher up on the b pillar since they will be more absorbed by back of the seat and any other obstructions. Components work better for that purpose in the b pillar.

I did front and rear 5.25 Morel components & a sub