kastein

Awesome build! Wish I had a rust free truck like that one... btw, I bet you can fix that door dent with a minimum of work. It doesn't look like it creased the metal anywhere, so just pull the door liner and use the flat of your palm to push the dent back out. You might even get away with doing it from the outside using a dent puller suction cup or (ghetto version) a plumber's helper.

yep that's the ABS sensor as already covered... as for the c-clips it comes apart just like a d35 or 8.25. Use a 5/16" GOOD QUALITY 6 point ratchet on that cross shaft retention bolt or you're gonna be grinding the head down and welding a nut to it so you can get the @#$%@%@ing thing out! Don't ask... oh... and I have two spare retention bolts if you end up needing them, I had to buy a pack of 3 because it was a special order :oops: Oh, and a little heat on the carrier between the head of the bolt and the end of the cross shaft goes a LONG way in getting it out painlessly. They use yellow threadlocker on that bolt.

X2 on all above. For 100 bucks it's a pretty good deal especially if you are not going to be putting oversize tires on it or lifting it significantly (LP have more driveshaft angle problems than HP when you lift due to the lower pinion.)

That really sucks :( I have fire extinguishers in all my roadworthy jeeps anyways as it's a NAXJA requirement (for trail rides, which theoretically I attempt to ride in...), though I'm really not sure it could have saved you from this. It can be damn hard to get the spray onto the right thing, especially on an electrical dash fire. BTW, don't get those silly little "recreational" fire extinguishers that you can wrap your hand around. Get one of the kitchen ones or bigger. By the time you notice a dash fire or engine compartment fire, you are going to need way more than one of those. They are suitable for one thing, meeting the rules of your club for trail rides. Good luck fixing it up! I'd hesitate to, since metal that has deformed from a fire is probably completely detempered and has none of the same strength it did originally, but if you tube it out, I guess it might work. (I say that as a complete metallurgy idiot, anyone who knows better should tell me I'm wrong if I am)

I put a WJ booster and master in my 92 MJ and was a direct bolt-in. Same in my 91. Had to use a 1/4" tall stack of washers on each mounting stud (or could have used a 1/4" spacer from a 95-96 XJ booster but I sold the one I had on hand) but was otherwise bolt-in.

Yep, they do that... the real fun one is when they're mixed! Pretty sure some of the bellhousing bolts are metric and I know the top two are SAE. Of course, only the threads are SAE... because they threw a real curveball and used an external torx head on them! :dunno: :smart: :ack: I'd bet on the wheel bearing or something rattling around behind the rotor / wheel bearing but in front of the brake dust shield.

You're misunderstanding... 1-2 gives 1st gear, or 2nd when the transmission computer decides it's time to shift at ~4500rpm. 3 gives whatever gear the transmission computer thinks is right, but will never go to 4th/overdrive. D gives whatever gear the transmission computer thinks is right, up to and including 4th/overdrive. The gears are 1, 2, 3, OD. You can, however, run the two wires for the shift solenoids with switches, and shift to whatever gear you want. See this page: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/aw4shiftmod.html - scroll down till you see the table of solenoid and gear info with the sentence "The TCU's outputs are very simple, only three wires" above it.

Only tip - don't waste your time swapping that d35 in. You will have to weld perches onto it etc anyways, do yourself a HUGE favor and go pick up a 97 or newer chrysler 8.25 rearend out of an automatic XJ and you will get a MUCH stronger axle and the same gears for $100. Heck, if you play your cards right, you can get a disk brake swap for the same price... swap the disk brake setup onto the axle before you leave the yard. They will see an axle with brakes and not care what vehicles it all came out of and charge you the same amount. EDIT: not sure this has been covered - you will have to have someone shorten your rear driveshaft for you, have this done after you get the vehicle back together so you know what length it needs to be.

Extend the harness and use the YJ one - AFAIK, it's some fairly standard connectors, just pick up a male and a female and splice them together so that it's long enough. You're lucky, the MAT is a resistive sensor and thus non-polarized, you don't even have to worry about which wire goes to which. Also, RockAuto claims they have one, they call it an Air Charge Temp Sensor and it's under Emissions. They only have 16 left and they are about 12 bucks each. Standard Motor Products part number AX9.

Yeah... the last 01 XJ is actually in a Chrysler storage facility somewhere I think. Pretty sure Pete M and WFC saw it, in fact! I view the JK as a "real jeep." Sadly, one I can't afford, but that will change in ten years. My definition of a real jeep - live axles front and rear and a non pushbutton transfer case. Pushbutton transfer cases just scare me, even as an EE nerd, I don't want some stupid shift motor to die on me on the trail and leave me unable to use 4WD. Give me mechanical linkages to the throttle, brakes, steering, transmission (even automatics), and transfer case and I will be happy... don't like fly by wire in vehicles. EDIT: An engine that isn't a massive turd helps too. So I stay away from 84-86 XJs with the V6. Yes, they are real jeeps, but they also like to turn into real lawn art.

hey hey! :no: mine actually looks halfway decent :rotf: yeah with 4 trucks moving shouldn't be too bad... maybe rent a 6x12 uhell box trailer as well.. WAY better than mine! I'm slowly slowly slowly fixing its mechanical issues, soon as I find a place to live and get one of my other jeeps into daily driveable condition it's getting a full body restoration. Till then, I drive a rusty, badly bondo'd dented up heep that looks like it just came out of the ocean :rotf:

:thumbsup: fully understood, been there before!

This is a real tough list... and I haven't even done many mods, since it's my daily driver / super-stock build / resto-mod sort of thing. * 4wd swap - definitely top (even though it's not complete yet) * WJ booster swap... stops so much better * OHC from a 96-down XJ (going to require some modification to the OHC frame) plus a headless-modded CB... this stuff is all torn apart on my living room floor right now My MJ came with a slider window, full console, and bucket seats, so I didn't need to do anything there :yes:

Someone just give me a buzz when it happens, in case I don't see it here (I'm used to being able to look at my user cp and see the threads that have been replied to) - 774 922 2854 is my cell. The new neighbors are gonna see 4 dented, dinged MJs roll up full of your stuff and go "there goes the neighborhood" :rotf:

Question: I just picked up a 87, the comfort/power switch is busted, haven't torn into the dash yet to look it over, there are no additional light on and by the way she runs ima assume it's stuck in comfort mode...what is the best way to bypass this switch and make it power mode all the time?...if there is a thread for it a link would be awesome From looking at my FSM, it looks like you just unplug the switch and splice the tan wire to the black/yellow wire :thumbsup: then install a factory fog light switch in the same opening and use it to do something cool!

I voted functional... only thing bad I have to say is that you probably should have used something heavier than 12 gauge on those quarter panel guards. They stick out pretty far, I wouldn't want to come down hard on something like that. If it weren't for that I'd vote higher.

If you can get it down to bare metal, you can whip the rust problem once and for all. The only problem is that these are unibody rigs... pressed and stamped and spotwelded sheetmetal. You can never properly get rid of the rust between two pieces of spotwelded sheetmetal :( that's how I lost 3' of the bottom of each frame rail under my cab, the rust started and just expanded the metal, grew more rust, and kept doing that till the two 1/8" sheets of metal were 1/4" or more apart and completely converted to rust.

Check out KGP419's "xombie" build on NAXJA in the SEC forum, body work can always be done, if you're willing to learn and put a lot of sweat and tears into it. He replaced an entire A-pillar with parts from the junkyard.

Good luck! I've been trying to buy a fixer-upper in the central mass or southern NH area for a year now. Every deal has fallen through for some reason or another. If you are going for a foreclosure make sure your lawyer looks over the title records at the registry of deeds CAREFULLY! And don't believe anything the seller's agent says unless they can prove it. Let me know when, and I'll be there unless I'm moving myself :rotf: all I have is a shortbed but it did pretty OK for my last move.

Cheapest I found the flange was alljeep.com's store, it's Spicer 2-2-1379. http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/produ ... _id=167208 Not sure about driveshaft length.

Seal puller is worth every cent. I have the same exact one :thumbsup: It just hooks behind one side of the seal, brace it against the other side and pry and shazam, out it comes. Only thing you have to be careful about is not nicking the seal mounting surface with the end of the hook. That seal they gave you looks an awful lot like the one that goes on the output of the transmission if you have a transfer case. Ask for a replacement for OEM part number 8350 2118 and you will get the right one.

Haynes info ranges from wildly inaccurate to a brilliant work of fiction :( My parts catalog for the 91-93 model year range says there are no differences in the 91-93 year range 2.5L timing chain/cover/associated parts.

If your original fenders still have it, remember to remove the comanche badge before junking them! That's about the only thing I can think of :thumbup: oh except when you pull the fenders, use a steel wire brush to clean most of the rust off those stupid bolt studs going into the header panel and be VERY VERY careful unscrewing the 13mm nuts off them, or they WILL break! If they start feeling like they are binding, screw them back on about half a turn and then back them out a bit. Use enough penetrating oil that Obama will call you up and threaten to sic BP on your @$$, too.

I absolutely love the previous version of those Bridgestone Dueler AT Revos... the Dueler APT. I've got 3 of them on my MJ, would be 4 but some d-bag stole one (yes, only one, hate drunk a-hole college kids from worcester state! :fs1: ) off my friend's lawn when I had them stored over there. As for disposal fees, my local yard takes tires for free (Sam's Pull-a-Part in Worcester) so if you want tires gone, check at your local junkyard and if you can't get rid of them there, bring them up here and give them to Sam's.

If I were a betting man, I would be willing to bet that with two otherwise identical MJs, one that ran 3,000 RPM at 70 MPH would deliver better gas mileage than one with stock gears and a 5-speed, that runs 1960 RPM at 70 MPH. There's just nothing like running UNDER the torque curve to boost your gas mileage ... NOT. 3,000 RPM is not "@#$% ridiculous high rpm's" for these engines -- it's the speed they were designed to run at. I get 18.change mpg with an AW-4 and at least a thousand pounds of junk (4.0, aw4, np231, driveshafts, axleshafts, two toolboxes, a toolbag, an engine hoist, two bins of spare fluids, plus camping gear) in the back doing 80-90mph, averaging about 85. Did that for the full length of I-84 last Friday night. Oh, and that's with a 4.0L engine with over 220 thousand miles on it. Same exact setup, going the other direction and only traveling at an average of 60mph, I got 22.3mpg. I like to keep it around 2500rpm normally... in my case this means 75-80mph ('91 AW-4 overdrive, TC locked, 3.55:1 gears, 225/75r15 tires with decent tread.) As for how it handled at 85mph, heavily loaded? Like a cadillac. I could still panic stop just fine, and did, when a trucker nearly merged into me just past Hartford due to some bonehead on a cellphone nearly merging into him. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html should help you a lot... fill in the trans/transfer case/gears/tires and it'll do all the hard work for you.