kastein

Correct... 91+ 2.5 and 4.0 pumps are the same. I live in a Renix era world. :D Off topic, your new avatar cracks me up. Looks like the kid from the online stock trading commercials. :yes: :cheers: Yep, just figured I'd save some poor sap from the annoyance and headscratching that results from swapping a new engine in and having it run like crap because the fuel pump isn't feeding it enough, right off the bat :hmm: :thumbsup:

If it's a TBI 2.5 instead of MPFI, the pump will only put out 14-15psi btw.

Depends. I'm keeping my MJ completely stock (well, suspension height anyways), my XJ is the lifted one. Slammed to the max, to the point that the wheels are coming through the wheel wells in the bed and are no longer anywhere near the openings in the fenders, and so low that the rocker panels have to be trimmed looks ultra retarded and if that's what the OP has in mind I'd tend to agree. Lowered a bit without looking completely ridiculous? Go for it, make that sucker go fast and corner great. I specifically stated in my thread that if you didn't like the idea of it, good for you, but its not your or anyone elses vehicles. (No, i'm not picking on you, or the other lift or go home posters, just re-stating my feelings on the matter.) I would hope that anyone who is a comanche or jeep owner can appreciate and respect the time it takes to fix up old rusty MJ's and properly put them back together. I've already sourced bucket seats, and have plans that will push this MJ even further outside the box than you guys could currently think up. As for titled license plates, no thanks, but shaved taillights? We'll see how she comes out once i'm through. I know, just sayin' kro10000 was going a little overboard ;) As long as you do a good clean job and don't hack-fab it, it's good by me :brows: I'm still trying to pull together all the parts I need for mine. Just picked up a bedliner and a spare load sensing valve at the junkyard this morning, in fact! EDIT: Where are you located? If you're in the northeast somewhere I have a bunch of spare brake hardware (rotors, calipers, knuckles, you name it) for the stock 2wd beam that I can get to you somehow. I was trying to sell it for pocket change but it's not moving, at this point I just want it to go to a good home instead of being melted down.

That is a real neat truck, agree on the hood obviously... won't a 231 or 242 transfer case bolt up to replace the 249? I forget if the shaft diameter/spline count and mounting bolt pattern are the same or not. If it will bolt up I would just run it till it blows up then swap in a native XJ/MJ case!

Depends. I'm keeping my MJ completely stock (well, suspension height anyways), my XJ is the lifted one. Slammed to the max, to the point that the wheels are coming through the wheel wells in the bed and are no longer anywhere near the openings in the fenders, and so low that the rocker panels have to be trimmed looks ultra retarded and if that's what the OP has in mind I'd tend to agree. Lowered a bit without looking completely ridiculous? Go for it, make that sucker go fast and corner great.

The former - the latter is either the Height Sensing Valve or the Load Sensing Valve depending on who's talking.

Make sure your CCV system isn't plugged up and is operating properly as well, I greatly reduced my RMS leak by fixing it partially and will be fixing it fully after I get the more pressing issues covered (brakes, fuel tank, etc.) I was leaking a quart every 150 miles, now I am leaking a quart every 300 miles or so.

short answer; yes, it will work. there is still an automatic trans computer up to 1996, '97 is the year that trans controls were part of the ECU. it *should* work just fine. BUT you will have to do some splicing to make your reverse lights and neutral safety switch work...the connectors in that area are not the same. If converting from '87-'90, you will also need to use a '91-'93 (maybe '94) flywheel...yours will not work. If that is the case, you need each and every single electrical part for the engine bay and dash. you WILL be removing your dash to do this swap. you will also need to do a "crossover" harness from xj to mj to make your rear harness work. IIRC, it is mfpdm did a write-up for this in DIY Nope, on the 4.0L drivetrain the TCU and ECU have always been separate in MJs and XJs, the 97 and later TCUs are just smaller, smarter, and mounted in a different spot. On the 2.5L drivetrain with the chrysler transmission (iirc) the TCU functionality is part of the ECU. Shouldn't affect the outcome of the OP's project though since he's got a 93 donor, and the vehicle it's going into had a manual so the TCU won't matter. I believe you should be able to use either a 4.0L/AX-15 ECU, or the 4.0L/AW-4 ECU with the TCU connected to the harness but not connected to the transmission since it's a 93 (manumatic friendly) but I am not sure.

He may or may not have actually recognized it (some of those parts counter guys are real good with the numbers) - the parts db will give you some of the apps the spring is used in when you look the part up. For example, throw "11502814" into the part number lookup on mopardiscountparts.com and it'll tell you that that particular nut (XJ/MJ LCA/spring/shackle nut) is still in use today on modern Jeep vehicles, including some of the rear 4-link and y-link suspension systems.

ok... some real solid info! Finally found the section of the FSM that covers this. For those with a Jeep Bible, it's at page 5-52 (at least in the 91 full-line manual) of the Engine Chassis & Body volume - titled "BRAKELINES AND VALVES". Routing - The line at the front of the proportioning valve block goes to the load sensing valve (specifically, the port on the side of it.) The line on the bottom of the proportioning valve block toward the front end goes to the "tee" fitting I observed on mine. The "tee" fitting is connected to the top port on the load sensing valve and the rubber brake line to the rear axle. Not that it matters functionally, but if you're as anal as I am about routing and making things perfect while doing a restoration, the side port on the "tee" goes to the rubber brake line. Haven't verified whether mine is set up right or has the lines to the rear swapped yet, but at least I know where to start now.

got an email back from uhaul... they don't have anything that'll fit :( Seems they ran out. They wanted $430 to make a custom hitch, I figure I can buy materials for one for way less than that.

yeah, this whacky "85 degree" tool or whatever it is. Saw that :( bets on being able to buy one from Jeep? :rotf: Great idea on the hydraulic gauge and tee fitting, I'll have to see if I can rig that up.

If it's a 95/96 column, the clockspring actually uses a sliding contact for the horn (which will keep working at all times even if you don't center the wheel) and a ribbon cable (inside the clockspring) for the cruise buttons, which needs centering. My bet is on someone wiring it wrong.

Yeah, if it turns out it doesn't work (anyone know how I can test it before plumbing the bypass line? I'd rather not waste time if it's completely FUBAR, I didn't see a test procedure in my FSM when I checked last night) I am going to eliminate it and never look back. You and me both... the rest of the lines that I already replaced were WORSE. Mostly made of rust, tangled all over the place, spliced with compression joiners everywhere... it was terrible. It was an accident waiting for a place to happen.

MJeff........Your confusing the 'ole Chef years with the Wrenching years again :shake: kastein - Do your self a favor, and tear all that junk out of there, and get rid of the load sensing valve, and read the post on running ONE hard line to the rear. The less lines and connections, twists and turns you have, the better chance you'll have less problems latter on. First - yeah, "what a tangled mess" is the first thing I thought too :D Second - I want to keep the load sensing valve as I go from an empty bed to 1000+ pounds of stuff at random fairly frequently. I also trust the brake line work I do, and I'm under there frequently enough that I should catch rust long before it becomes a problem again. The only thing the system really adds that would reduce reliability is the valve itself, and mine looks to be in excellent shape.

Got a couple actually... had a chance to get under the MJ with a camera last night. It's worse than I remembered - note the T-junction and compression splice, along with the old rusted out line being used as a support for the new line! The T-junction and compression splice: Everything: Another shot: From what I can tell, one line from the front goes to the top of the load sensing valve AND directly to the rear axle (via the T splice) while the other line goes to the side port on the load sensing valve via the compression splice. I'm not sure which line is which going to the front (and as you can tell from the quality of work here, I don't think I should trust that it's correct) but I can trace that easily... just not sure what the proper routing is due to the 4-port mystery box on the rear axle shown by MrSimon's diagram. Maybe my routing is correct (except possibly lines to the front swapped) and the 4-port box is actually the combination of the T-junction and the rear brake hose, which has 2 ports on the axle end? Also... just did the WJ master cylinder + booster swap last night. All I can say is that it's GREAT! Even with my rear brakes nearly inoperative, I can stop much faster than I could before.

Consider me sold! How much for shipping to 01602? I'll PM you my address, do you take paypal?

I'm running ZJ canyon wheels (darker inset areas) on my MJ, I had to pop the caps out just like you did when I had the 2wd beam in still. I solved this problem by putting in a d30... :D (halfway through a 4wd swap actually)

88pioneer - thanks for the link! nojaprides - for longbed or shortbed? Haven't found for sure yet. Where are you located?

Wow, looks like mine. I had to replace 2-3 feet of the bottom of each frame rail. The sides were fine. I forget if I did any vertical welds, I should check :oops:

Congrats on the 4x4! I am halfway there, front axle is in but I haven't swapped the transmission and transfer case yet. For that mirror, pick up the mirrors off a 97 or later XJ in the yard... they are much bigger and you can actually see stuff with them! I didn't like the styling at first but it's growing on me, especially because I can see now... If there is not a good priced junkyard near you PM me, there is an all you can carry at a local yard here next weekend. I can pull you a set of 97+ mirrors (maybe even powered, heated mirrors though you will have to wire them yourself) for extremely cheap, if I manage to pick a set up I will let you know. Should be under 20 bucks including shipping I think.

Pretty close, thanks a lot! The only thing I'm confused about now is the stuff at the rear (looking at MrSimon's first pic - the stock setup.) From the look of it there's a separate block with 4 ports and a load sensing valve back there, but on mine I just have a load sensing valve with 3 ports - two for the brake lines to the front, one going to the rubber brake line for the rear axle. What I'm really worried about is whether the two lines to the front have been swapped, because the brake lines were all replaced (I guess you could call it that) by either the previous owner or his extremely cheap, lazy mechanic. Whoever did it did a terrible job and I have very little faith in them getting the lines routed properly.

Next time you need electronics let me know, I hit the junkyard quite often and can usually find stuff for cheap. There is an 88 in the JY I go to right now, the TCU would have cost ten bucks. I don't charge extra, you pay what I pay plus shipping. The only catch is that I get busy at work randomly and it may take me a while to find what you need.

Anyone have a diagram showing the stock brake line routing? I found the "load sensing valve eliminating" diagram in the common useful pics thread but cannot find one that includes the stock valve, which I want to keep. Great writeup! My link bar between the valve and the diff is gone so I will be using this to make myself a new one.

yeah :( no kidding. The counter guys at the stores near me are actually pretty good, once they realized I needed the whole assembly not just the pump they were like "yeah good luck dude..." I guess I'll take a look through the parts catalogs and see if I can find anything... might hit the junkyard, pull an early model XJ pump assembly and see if it's something I can modify to fit properly. It's just a piece of metal, why does it have to be so hard to find :(