kastein

Looks like it to me too. The one that looks just like it (but has an oppositely polarized plug, IIRC) on the side of the intake manifold water jacket is the CTS.

Thank you for your service! :USAflag: If you are ever in the northeast and need a place to crash or anything else, let me know and I'll see what I can do. Beer's on me, too. Glad to see you're doing as well as you are, I don't think I could take that kind of injury with the attitude you have.

Sounds like the steering knuckles are bent (unlikely) or the inner Cs (the balljoint frames you mentioned) are bent. Check the angle on the axle tubes like was said before, if they are not exactly the same you just plain need a new axle, the tubes or center section are at fault. If they are the same and you can see that the upper arms of the inner Cs are bent inwards somewhat you may be able to save it by removing the axle from the vehicle and liberally applying a 4lb hand sledge until the camber is back in spec (you need to measure, eyeballing isn't good enough) but it probably won't cost you more than a hundred bucks to just pick up a whole new frontend. Any XJ Cherokee up to a '99 would be a good choice of a donor, the later in that range the better because they're less likely to be rusted out and worn down. If you end up needing yet another set of balljoints, I find alljeep.com usually has the best prices around. I picked up a set of Spicers for my WJ steering conversion on the XJ for under 100 dollars shipped to my door - that's for all 4 balljoints.

Even more info - at least some years of RENIX YJs will work too. I pulled the same exact module off a rusted out RENIX YJ with the 4cyl at my local pull-a-part a few months ago.

Lowering will mean you need to shorten the shaft - I would guess you'll end up around 1.5" to 2" too long between the 2" drop and the d44 pinion being longer. But it's just that, a guess, you should install everything except the shaft, bring it to ride height, and measure.

Drove it ( ) to work ( :ack: )

Same... with the possible exception of a mortgage, but I'm aiming for a fixer upper. I like my basket case projects, both the vehicular and housing sorts... New cars are a complete waste; they lose thousands of dollars in value as soon as you drive them off the lot. I have spent less on the 3 vehicles I own now (91 MJ, 96 XJ, 98 XJ) then I would have spent on a new top of the line Honda Accord, and I can keep at least one of them in daily driveable condition at any given moment. I term this the RAIV, "redundant array of inexpensive vehicles."

Personally I like the blacked out lower body styling - I say go for it, maybe use flat black like the early 90s XJ Sport trim level. Some people use bedliner for this, I figure it would avoid rock chipping better but I'm not sure I like how it looks.

Is that really a 93 ZJ Grand Wagoneer with ABS? No, that booster will probably not work. Rare vehicle it's in though. Looks like a d35... and the bed is in worse shape than I hoped :( Nice find out in the yard though!

Not sure they'll fit but TJ flares look kinda like the 97-up XJ flares, might try those. YJ flares on the other hand look more like the 96-down XJ flares

91 c-clip D35 in my 2.5 MJ has a 6 point 5/16 :nanner: That's real wonky. I've never seen anything except a 12 point 1/4" in a d35, will have to check mine when I pull it out.

Yep... MJ fuel sender assemblies are not the same as XJ fuel assemblies, though most cross ref databases list a 93 XJ assembly as fitting a 91 (and probably 92 and maybe earlier) MJ. They don't even make MJ assemblies anymore. Junkyard or modify it to make it work yourself... there is no other way that I am aware of. Fortunately you're in socal, where rust doesn't exist and you can probably find an MJ in a pull-a-part to take one from if you try hard enough.

Yeah, they are "just wheels" that haven't been made for over 20 years. Not a big deal if all you want is something to roll around on, but if you want the truck to look correct for the year and model, there's no substitute for having the correct wheels. You want mine? I am going to use one of them as an extension cord reel in the shop (mounting it to the wall on an old unit bearing so it even spins) but if you can swap me any random rim or two of the 5x4.5 persuasion, the set of 4 is yours as soon as I get them excavated from my storage unit. I stuck ZJ Canyons on it and think it looks better, so they've just been sitting around since then.

Looks like a rust free shortbed... man oh man, if you can find a way to get that bed out of there (and it isn't horribly dented somewhere or other I'm not seeing) I would give an awful lot for it. My shortbed is rusted really badly and dented everywhere. Of course, you're like 1500 miles away... Also, I think 100 for what you got was a pretty fair price. Here I would have paid 50 for the lights, 15 for the headliner, and 40 for a bench seat in that condition, plus tax.

Holy moly! I gotta raise the prices on the set I have on classifieds :rotf: (not serious, I charge what I pay, just keeping the crusher from taking it all) fixed that for us rust belt guys :( ... when even guys driving huge CJ buggies on 40+ inch tires wave and say "nice MJ!" even though yours is completely stock :brows:

Wheels are not something I would worry about saving if they're too far gone, they're just wheels. I think I know the style you're talking about, I am pretty sure I have 4 of them in varying stages of corrosion sitting in my storage unit. Either that, or the ones off the Eliminator... would make sense since my '91 is an Eliminator.

You might have a crappy ground issue too. The sender and fuel pump share a ground and if it gets corroded enough it has enough resistance that the voltage at the "low" (electronically speaking) end of the sender is higher than the gauge expects, which throws off the reading. When the pump is working hard and drawing more current the voltage on the crummy ground will be higher than when the pump is not working very hard and not drawing much current, so the reading will fluctuate.

yeah, I've had water bottles stay in the holder on my bike even while I was trying to untangle myself from them, lying on the ground... Best accessory I have so far - the made-to-fit (says "jeep SB" on the outside!) bedliner I picked up for $50 at the junkyard a few weeks ago :D hides ALMOST all of the rust on the bed, though I know it's still under there, eating away... :ack: Other good ones - good solid forged lugnut cross wrench I keep behind the driver's seat, and an extendable snow broom / ice scraper that is 5 feet long when opened. That one did double duty keeping the sagging headliner off my head for a few months this spring :rotf: extended it till it was wide enough to sit on top of the oh-crap handles and left it there.

... you are on first-name terms with 3/4 of the employees at the local you-pull-it

The FSM is great, but not infallible. For instance look in the 91 (and probably other years too) body and chassis manual under MJ service brakes, and tell me whether an MJ has front leaf springs or coil springs from the factory (the diagram showing MJ front brake line routing shows spring-under leafs.) I got a good laugh out of that one.

I find em once in a while and always pull them, last time they charged me 25 each.

I was figuring chipped pinion/ring gear teeth, sounds like you got lucky there. Maybe you warped/bent a tooth slightly? Not even sure that's possible with how hard they are, figure they'll probably break instead. Where does the sound seem to come from?

nah... it turns into a teeter totter the second you run over a speedbump, nevermind hitting the trails.

My suggestion - get speed bleeders. Never used to think they would make much of a difference till I got a set. Also, bleed all 4 wheels, then open a front bleeder, jam on the brakes to shuttle the prop valve bypass, bleed the rears again, shut the front bleeder and bleed all 4 in normal order again. That's the method with the height sensing valve in place, though I have good braking without doing the extra steps, might just be because I'm used to the way it was with air in the rear lines and only the fronts working for a few months.

All that and they couldn't figure out how to make new front fenders and a new hood for it? Maybe they were going for that look... but going nuts with fab/mods for appearance only and then removing body panels because you can't figure out how to make them fit and look good = :shake: in my book