kastein

Why not fix the stock gauges? If all of them quit working at once my bet is that you can fix them all at once, easily, and you won't be tearing up your wiring and making your vehicle into a rats nest.

I'd throw all new plugs, wires, cap and rotor in it, that smoothed out the idle on my XJ amazingly.

Don't have anything for you, but let me know if you want to hit a junkyard early some morning, I hit Sam's in Worcester at 7:30 to 8AM 3-4 times a week. Their prices are what I would call reasonable. Also around to help install if you want, though things may get hectic late this week EDIT: now that I think about it I'm pretty sure I have some headlight buckets, headlights, and possibly turn signals you can have for free, I'll have to look for them. And I will hopefully have a front bumper with a few minor dents + needs paint that you can have for free when I get an aftermarket for my XJ in a week or two.

:agree: But.......if you mis-read me, I was scrapping the AW4's and out of the trucks, and on the floor, pulling the solenoids, and the cable is right there, 2x's I've been asked for TV cables, and just so happen to have them ;) Also saving a un-dented pan, with the dip stick still attached is not a bad idea also :brows: Good plan. I need to remember to do that to my 2x4 AW-4 before I junk it... I broke the stupid little plastic clip that connects to the throttle lever on the new transmission for my XJ! Only realized that when prepping it for install, luckily I hadn't dropped the old one out yet. Could pull the one off the old trans in the XJ but I intend to rebuild it and want to keep it together enough that I can drop it in easily.

:doh: how the heck did I miss that? Yeah... you have way less to disconnect.

Might need to jack up the back of the engine a little while pulling on the trans. The transmission can be held up all you want, but there will still be sideways pressure on the shaft if you don't also jack up the engine a bit since the mounts are well forward of its center of mass. Shouldn't need much, stick the stock bottle jack under it, crank it up till it's in contact, yank on the trans, crank up a little more, etc till it pops out. Also, did you disconnect the wiring harness(s) (including O2 sensors) and speedo/throttle valve/shift cables? (clearly I am assuming you have the automatic... manual is a whole nother ballgame!)

few months ago when I was about to install the d30. Those are ZJ Canyon wheels AFAIK (TJ Canyons have a more angled hole outline, and have a slightly raised center while the ZJ ones have darker paint in the holes)

Spec on the solenoids is 11-15 ohms. You can also salvage them from any AW-4 equipped XJ in the yard, which should greatly increase the availability of parts donors... As for the TV/kickdown cable, it's OEM part number 5207 7578, will cost you $27 brand spankin' new from mopardiscountparts.com. I normally wouldn't pay 27 bucks for a cable, but factor in the fact that I'd have to haul my 70lb hydro jack into the junkyard and take a bath in transmission fluid while lying in mud, dirt, and gravel, to get a used part for 10 bucks when I could get a new one for 27, and I'll go for the new one.

2wd jeeps yes, 2wd wrangler no. when this has come up before someone tried to convince me of a 2wd yj being built for govt somethin or other, to my limited knowledge, there has been no 2wd wrangler untill the jk. its not a market to avoid, and i never said all jeeps should be rubicons, for repetition sake i won't repeat my previous statements about what they've done. 2WD YJ's do exist. Seen one with my own eyeballs. Rob L. so was it govt. or what, i've actually read where no 2wd yj left the factory from regular production. these must have been made for some sort of special deal. tell me tell me tell me :rant: Not from 87-90 they didn't exist, far as I can tell (no such beast as a SUA leaf front beam in the YJ section of my catalog.) 91-93 and 94-95 likewise. 97 TJ catalog shows the same, I'm too lazy to dig up any other TJ catalogs. Maybe they were special order like you said but I would think the parts to fix them would be in the parts catalogs. Agreed. There is a reason (I forget who I'm quoting here, one of the CO chapter guys on NAXJA) the 84-86 vehicles were called "a mismatched sack of wet turds."

Depending on how much you want for it, and if I buy a house next Friday or not, I might be interested :eek: even though I don't need three jeeps... You can pick up used aw-4s for cheap, I got mine for 75 bucks in perfect condition and a friend of mine picked up two for $20 a while ago.

I haven't had the opportunity to try out mine with a functioning/in-circuit height sensing valve completely unloaded yet, but I can tell you that braking is worlds better with my rear brakes working again, a functioning height sensing valve, and a full load (spare d30, 2.5L engine, ~150-200lbs of metal stock, jackstands, spare tire, a few toolboxes) in the bed. In a week or two I'll know more. Personally I intend to keep my valve unless it turns out it isn't functioning, which I would be surprised by, as it is in amazingly good condition compared to the rest of the undercarriage.

Kro10000, another great point... I have taken pairs of blue jeans that were entirely completely coated in dirt and grease, so bad that the upper thighs were black AFTER being washed, sprayed them down with a quarter to half can of brake cleaner and threw them in the wash. They came out looking as good as new and surprisingly the washing machine did not explode :rotf:

As others noted you can use 4dr XJ parts... btw I'd go with a junkyard one instead of going to ebay since that's a probably junkyard one too. You can get them for like 10-20 bucks at most yards and you even get to practice the removal on someone else's vehicle first in the process! Also, instead of drilling out rivets (drill: n. A rotational-blade tool used for spinning pop rivets in their holes till you die of old age) I like to use a dremel or angle grinder with a cutting disc in it, apply sideways like you are trying to bisect the rivet shaft and wiggle it back and forth till you grind through the head all the way around where it joins the shank and it should pop off with no cursing, no struggling, no spinning, and no bending/overdrilling of the sheetmetal at all.

Still looking for a SWB spare tire winch... got a fuel pump assembly though!

X2. Brake cleaner is the Holy Hand Grenade in my solvent/cleaner shelf... I would not use carb cleaner because it leaves a very light oil residue behind. Brake cleaner is by design a residue-free solvent cleaner.

Booster/MC swap - you want one out of a WJ (99-04 Grand Cherokee iirc.) I just put one in, MUCH better. I kept my height sensing valve. I decided I wanted to be able to put a thousand pounds of junk in the back and just drive off without fiddling with a brake pressure adjuster in the cab, since I do that on a fairly regular basis. I've also been picking up spare HSVs at the junkyard every time I see them, since they just don't make them anymore. For the WJ booster swap, here is the thread I used: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 I actually bled my master outside of the vehicle because it wasn't bleeding well while in the vehicle. Unbolted it from the booster, filled the reservoir up, put the lid on, shook the hell out of it, dumped all the fluid out (to get rid of the gunk all over the inside of the reservoir) then bled it. I used 4 or 5 (forget) 1/4" flat washers on each booster mounting stud as spacers to make the pushrod hole to mounting surface distance the same as the original booster - if you don't do this, your pedal will be MUCH higher after the swap. I'm not sure if you'll get lucky but I did on my 91. I measured and discovered I did not have to drill the hole in the pushrod out at all, and the distance from the hole to the brake switch actuator flat was only about 1/16" different so I just adjusted where the brake light switch was. Still got some kinks to iron out with that though, my cruise control deactivates when I go over potholes on the highway. Proper brake line routing to keep the HSV - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17968&p=238880#p238880 Bleeding - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4917 (I actually haven't done the extra stuff yet, works fine but probably won't work in emergency situations! Gotta get on that this weekend) Clear as mud? :dunno:

To add to the confusion, I saw on Novak's page this morning that a Jeep NP231 is around 70lbs stock. And I know for sure that the AW-4 is at least that much, probably more like 100! So the AW-4 and NP231 are going to be at least 170 IMO.

Just did the wheel cylinders on the d35 on my 91 Sunday. I think it's got 9" drums, didn't bother to measure, but it certainly did not have pushrods. Wish I hadn't had to waste money throwing wheel cylinders on a 35 when I have an 8.25 going in soon, but I can't afford to do anything that might result in the MJ not being driveable as I have a move coming up in a week or two and it just has to hold together till then.

I think your a little off :hmm: 4.0 with out accessories = 625 +/- AW4 & NP 231 about = 120 +/- Total gross around 750# 87Warrior - Glad to hear everything came out OK for ya :thumbsup: 4.0 w/ accessories and manifolds is probably about that much. I have word from a little bird however that a 4.0 w/ no accessories weighs around 520lbs, which I can believe... there is no way I could move 625 alone and I can get a 4.0 off the ground and shuffle it around a few inches at a time when I am suitably motivated. I've pulled a 4.0/AW4/231 combo with a harbor freight engine hoist and load leveler - held together fine, at least till the wheels jammed up and sank into the mud in my friend's back yard. That was a long, long day...

The pump? yes... junkyards, ebay, auto stores, etc. The pump assembly? Yes... well... sorta yes. It's on the shelf between the gold ingots and white whales. Fortunately the only way they really go bad is rust, so load yours up with something to prevent rust (without affecting serviceability) before it's too late! My new one is probably getting a heavy coating of grease or some sort of tar that I can dissolve off when I need to work on the pump again.

pump itself - lower pressure for 2.5 TBI on RENIX years, make sure you get the right one mounting hangar/bracket/assembly thing - all sorts of different for various things, I forget, definitely different XJ vs MJ though. I know that the one I got from a friend for a 4.0/SWB/RENIX fit into my 4.0/SWB/OBD-I perfectly and works great except for the fuel level sender though, which works great but is backwards resistance wise so full means empty and empty means full.

The stock fuel pressure line is stainless steel from the fuel filter to the quick disconnect for the hard plastic flexible line that crosses from the frame to the intake manifold bracketry. I've never had a fuel pressure line go bad on me (on two extremely rusty jeeps) but I have had that blasted quick disconnect rust through since it is regular steel.

If you want, I can drop them off in NJ or PA somewhere (maybe) next time I'm down there in a few months... then you can harass someone else into parts training them the rest of the way or something. As for steering wheel play, check your tie rod and drag link TREs for play, as well as your track bar bushing at the axle end, track bar joint and mount at the body end, and steering box. Might check the bushings on the upper and lower control arms as well. Mine had about 2-3" of play in it before I swapped out the beam for a dana 30 front axle, which resulted in it getting new(er) UCA bushings and a new tie rod and drag link. Steering is now noticeably tighter. I'm betting it'll be even better once I swap in the '95 XJ steering column and steering shaft I got for it, I might still need to swap in a newer steering box though since the beast has over 200k on it now and I think it's the original box.

This was also obviously a custom install. So there's no telling how that engine was mounted and if it was mounted anywhere near the standard position for a ZJ. It could be a couple inches up, necessitating the wonky hood... another thing to check during the inspection, just look for anything ultra strange looking about the engine mounts, brackets, etc.

Great point. The harness plug for 96-down XJs and all MJs radios does not include a ground line. The only grounds the radio has are that bolt-on quick disconnect tab ground cable and the shield on the antenna coax. I don't know if a 97-up XJ has a different radio harness pinout but it might.