darkside

I have found the easiest way to remove a ujoin is with a ball join press you can get at HF for $50. put it in a bench vise and use a wrench or socket & ratchet to remove them. Sometimes you may have to tap the yoke where it goes around the caps to break them loose but it works everytime. Now to get back on topic, my welder or angle grinder is probably the best tool at home. If I'm at work I would have to say my pneumatic fan clutch tool that you use with your air hammer.

I am a tech at the local chevy dealer. I am still in college and have less than a years experience so I don't make much money but sure beats unemployment. Previously I was unemployed for a year(only recieved unemployment for half that) with a few small odds and ends like seasonal work or substitute teaching :no: :D

hello, I'm still kinda new here but I am planning to head over to attica the weekend of the 7th of Aug. I'm not sure if Ill have any friends coming along of if it will be just me but that is the date I'm planning on going to the bad lands if anyone would be interested.

if money allows i would be game. been wanting to go for some time now.

just one

Well all of them didn't quit working at once, if they did I would just replace the IPC. The wiring is not going to be a rats nest. I am an automotive technician so I know what I am doing, just wasnt sure one the factory sending unit ohm range. Also the PO had already hacked the wiring and I am also fixing those mistakes. For me to get a factory IPC and correct all the mistakes and what have you it will be easier going this route.

I believe the sending unit that is currently in the tank is fine so I am just getting the correct gauge that will work with the current sending unit.

continued working on installing my aftermarket gauges and with some help form CC found out I bought the wrong fuel level gauge so now I have to wait on the new one.

after about a minute and a half and using the all mighty google I found one. Next time you may try to search a little and not be so impatient http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200454108401&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=a8b164ab1280a0e20217fc97ff5d67c8&rvr_id=&ua=WVI8&itemid=200454108401

Ok thanks. I guess I got the wrong one so I had the store order the correct one. The one I bought was for the chrysler/ford sending unit wich operated at 73 ohms empty and 10 ohm full where as the one that uses the GM sending unit operates at 0 ohms empty and 90 ohms full. Thanks again and hope this may help someone else out that may need this info in the future

So all the gauges in my MJ quit working and am replacing them with aftermarket gauges(like autometer or sunpro) and have a question about the fuel level gauge. Now I know what wire the sending unit is but can anyone tell me the amount of resistance(ohms)the factory sending unit is. I have purchase the gauge and it is supposed to be for a chrysler/ford sending units but want to make sure I bought the right one. Thanks for any advice in advanced. Oh, also tried searching but failed to find anything. :dunno: It is an 87 MJ by the way.

ive got one for a long bed if ur interested. pm me if your interested and I'm in Indiana also.

My name is Dustin and I'm from Indiana. I've got and 87 comanche with a 4.0 H.O., locked D30 in front and a ford 8.8 in the rear on 33's