kastein

What yards are you going to?! Sam's up in Worcester doesn't. They also don't drain the freon, coolant, oil, brake fluid, PS fluid, or damn near anything except the gas... I discovered the freon one with a sawzall one day by accident.

As long as it's the same ratio/axle, yeah, just wrench stuff. It's when you have to set up the gears in the diff that it gets dicey. If you can install a lift kit you can install a new rear axle. Like CW said, you should use new U-bolts, you can have them made to your spec at any spring rebuilder shop for 30-60 bucks depending on where you live. Speaking of which, where are you? If you're in mass somewhere, the you-pull-it yards generally charge 100-150 for axles, save yourself some dough and do some sweating to make up for it.

Already line up a new engine for it? Or are you rebuilding the current one? Think you just need to throw new bearings in it, or will the crank/rods require machine work? If it's a rebuildable motor and you don't feel like spending time on it, I have a 2.5 out of a '90 RENIX in driveable condition that I'll swap you for. Only fault I know of on it is that the rearmost exhaust manifold stud is torqued off in the block, came out of a friend's old daily driver (did 97mph on the highway just fine with no complaints) after he sold it to another friend to turn into a rock crawler rig.

Dunno, what rear diff do you have? If you've got a 35 still, I have a trac-lok carrier and spiders/sides you can have to test this out... it of course needs new carrier bearings, backlash setting, and frictions, though. Got it free when I picked up a turdy5 from a friend for spare parts, so it's yours free to end the debate if you so desire.

Um, you don't have the automatic fillers? nope, like MjPioneer said, in mass they don't work. They have the auto shutoff, and everything but one part for the auto fill is there, they grind down the rivets and remove the strike plate that the auto fill lever rests against. So I hold the trigger down, jam my gas cap in it, and walk off to check my fluid levels...

So glad we pump our own gas here... though I break the rules and use my gas cap to jam the pump on so I can check my oil level while it's filling.

Nice, I want to pick one up sometime... Another thing on my list is an arbor press. If I can pick up a good older-than-dirt arbor press I probably will skip the hydro press for a while. Also, please, it's not a BFH, it's a Kinetic Persuasion Mallet :smart:

X2. My MJ is the "whipped till it died, patched till it limped then whipped again" sort, the PO was not big on maintenance. It's actually fairly reliable now, and was when I got it, just had to remember to start braking a few hundred feet early... I've been fixing everything that breaks and eventually I'm going to run out of things to fix. Funny quote from my last encounter with johnny law, explaining my lack of an up to date inspection sticker - "so basically, you're building a car?" "yeah, you could say that..." (this after rattling off a list of fairly major, expensive-if-you-pay-someone-else-to-do-it repairs, including the trans cooler lines, gas tank, all brake lines, all brake cylinders/calipers, front axle, balljoints, wheel bearings, brake booster and master cylinder...)

Sure you don't need to just remove a shim from the compressor clutch on that thing? Throw the one with the "bad" clutch into a vehicle, give it a try, if you can get it to kick in by using the handle of a hammer to push on the end of the clutch, you should be able to pull a shim out and make it work from what I've read.

Yesterday - threw the welder, welding equipment, hydro jack, full toolbag, spare parts, a d30, toolbox loaded with more spare parts, 4 jackstands, and air compressor in the back, drove it to New Hampshire, halfway up ended up putting my spare tire on a '99 XJ I saw on the side of i93 with a blowout, installed the d30 in a friend's '92 XJ, loaded it back up and drove home Today - drove it to work :(

That is more OEM hardware than I've seen left on some buggy builds, I would build a buggy and attach that to the front

Wait, you're dumping the bed? It looks like it's in better shape than mine from the pics :brows: Any chance you would want to trade it for other parts or greenbacks :yes: Also, lemme know if you want/need a hand or someone to stand around and drink your beer while you curse at rusty bolts... I'm generally up for doing that after business hours + on weekends.

Everything said so far is accurate, except the design changed from 95 to 96, not 96 to 97 - 96 and later transfer cases are the sealed design.

Now that is luxury. A/C definately sounds like a luxury to me. I'm considering doing removable doors to help with the heat in the cab. I'm considering it because it's easier to make them removable than it is to futz around with those stupid torx bolts :rotf: and I bought replacement doors that aren't dinged up and full of rust holes that I gotta put on sometime

The proper use of a minivan is emergency shelter when it starts raining at the junkyard :dunno: (the row of old chrysler/plymouth minivans at my local you-pull-it is right next to the row of XJs/MJs, and they stay dryer inside even with missing doors)

Wow, that sucks! Glad there wasn't any really bad damage. I like the wagomanche look. Was that ever available from the factory or did you add it as a junkyard option?

I see em at the junkyard all the time, really need to pull them more often but I don't have the upfront cash (or space) to stockpile such common items :dunno:

The upper pic is what I found stock on my '96 and '98, it's just a regular 45 degree flare iirc. The lower pic is what I found on the copper radiator I picked up from a part-out, you can get an adapter fitting that makes it into the stock fitting or you can use a small piece of 3/8" tranny tubing and a 3/8"-tubing (7/16" actual size iirc, but don't quote me on that, it's whatever comes on the preflared 3/8" steel tubing) nut, and then hose clamp the rubber tranny hose onto it.

What quick disconnects are you repairing? If they are the ones on the transmission lines, Dorman 800-714s have always worked nicely for me. If they are the ones on the fuel system... haven't had to fix those yet :dunno:

This is the truth. Especially if they're small vertically but not circumferentially. Pretty sure my 98 is a double-hopscotch... what the RMV doesn't know can't hurt them. It WAS inop when I got it, so the gap should be fairly easy to explain, I've got a pretty large list of things I had to reassemble and/or install to make it roadworthy.

MORE is real proud of that flange, alljeep.com has it for 26 bucks (was 22 when I got it.) http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/produ ... _id=167208 Agreed. Don't be afraid to use a little heat on them (a butane pocket torch works great) to get them unscrewed, they use red loctite on them and I could not budge them with a 3 foot cheater on my breaker bar before I applied heat. At least on d30 calipers, core charge is 10 bucks or so, but I like to get them anyways, seems silly not to. When I buy an axle they generally don't charge me for the calipers/stuff attached to it, since I end up buying an axle every few weeks on average they just like the repeat business :brows:

far as I know that's crap, aluminum has a thermal conductivity of 250 watts per meter-kelvin (wonky unit, more is better in this case) while copper has a thermal conductivity of 401 on the same scale. So for a given piece of metal copper will transfer the heat nearly twice as well. Radiating/dissipating, just make sure the radiator is painted black on the outside and it'll radiate quite nicely. Honestly I'd put aluminum in a DD any day of the week, but an offroad rig that might get radiator damage, copper or brass only, because you can solder them back together and drive it home. My '96 has an aluminum rad because it was a DD when I replaced it, my '98 has one because I just had to get it running and it's stock right now, the MJ is getting a copper radiator and when I get the 96 back into driveable/wheelable shape I'm probably going to swap its radiator with the one in the MJ.

You have to sell it? Where do you live? :brows:

Nice score! I just picked one up in kinda the same condition for 1000 with a bucketload of spare parts in the back, one of the local NAXJA guys used to part out and rebuild a lot of XJs and decided he wasn't doing that anymore. It came to me with a 96-down nose on it, dark red header panel, black fenders, white hood, assorted mechanical problems and stuff missing, but almost rust free! I spent about a month and a half haunting the junkyards until finally last Saturday I walked into the yard to see a 97-up XJ in the same color (slightly different trim, who cares) that had been sideswiped, only one tiny dent in the driver side fender right near the door. Took the entire nose off it and now mine is all one color (it's the 98 in my signature)

Those 3 mounting holes in the triangle go at the front of the frame rail - and I'm fairly certain the right angle bits with 4 holes in them bolt to the front crossmember and strengthen the front two holes on the end of the frame rail. The 4 holes in the square further out are for attaching a bumper that you custom fabricate I think... I don't believe those are standard OEM brackets.