nitroxsteve

Like everyone has said above anything that is loose or worn in the front end can cause this. The quickest and easiest thing to check is tire balance. Start looking for anything worn. The track bar and tie rod ends are a good place to start checking. I have only experienced this once and it was a broken shock causing it.

All of the parts you will need are available at any auto parts store.

I would guess you could need about anything. I would recommend a good inspection of all the wear parts first and go from there. don't waist money on stuff thats not needed. We can all guess but only an inspection will actually tell you what you need.

this sometimes will work, I have also had good luck driving in a torx bit with a hammer. The torx gets some extra grip because of the sharp edges.

I ran a 4wd front axle in my 2wd truck for over a year until I found all of the transmission and transfer case parts I needed to complete the swap. I was in the same boat as you the front end needed some work and I didnt want to waste anything on the 2wd front axle. It will work fine.

I lost the original fan shroud due to bad motor mounts. Pick one from jy for $3.

all steel. stamped, forged, cast or milled, it's all steel. no cast iron. :thumbsup: True,

I would guess its black because the oil was old or burned. The cover cleaned up because it is steel. The inside is iron and rough and holds all the junk. If everything looks good I would spray it out good and fill it up with new oil.

I think he is asking about a D35 rear axle not the D30 front.

if they are still good I would not replace them. I would clean innspect and repack. I would prefer a good set of OEM bearings in good condition than a cheap set of new bearings from an unknown maker.

1 for each side.

Nothing is different about the closed system except you don't have a radiator cap. Like 87MJTIM said what were you doing when it overheated? How did you get it to cool back down? Could be anything from the thermostat to a bad fan clutch. We just need a little more info.

I can't figure out what the sensor in my distributor does. I can't tell any difference with the distributor plugged in or unplugged.

Could a drive shaft shop not just cut both ends off of any drive shaft and replace the complete tube? I know this would cost more but it should be an option. I have had shafts made for heavy equipment like this I'm sure its probably not much different for an automotive application.

Any parts store can look up the seals for you. If they don't show it under the Comanche just use the same year Cherokee.

The Dakota tail light looks simmilar but is completely different from the Comanche light.

Its easy, everything is bolt in you just need to find the correct donor vehicle. You will need the following parts. 4wd transmission Transfer case shift linkage for t-case (don't forget the part that bolts to the floor) Front and rear drive shafts (you can have your rear shaft shortened) Front axle with correct gears to match your current rear axle

I believe the flywheel will only bolt on in one position. Did you try spinning it around to the next hole until you tried all the positions?

You should have everything you need except the rear drive shaft. You have a complete donor truck and all the holes should be in place. For the ones recommending the HO swap he already owns the 88 donor truck with a bad body, he is buying the 87 4 banger because it has a better body.

#1 and #6 are companion cylinders meaning they are both at TDC or BDC at the same time just on different stroke. If you set the cam 180 out you just need to set the distributor 180 out to match. If you do this then turn the crank one revolution then everything is in the correct location again. No need to do the job over again everything is good.

X2

I had a similar problem when my pilot bearing failed. my clutch felt normal but sometimes the bearing would lock to the input shaft and not allow me to shift. you could also feel it dragging if you tried to stop in gear. if your clutch pedal is going soft then this is not the problem.

Never seen a Dakota but i have seen a kit for an s10 once. I can't remember the company nsme but they probably do other trucks too.

When you say won't engage do you mean when you let up on the pedal the truck does not move? Or when you press the clutch it does not release?

I use a key style bike lock through the loop in the corner of the bed. That way when I want to use the bed nothing is in my way.