nitroxsteve

My 88 I had to go .060" with 150k on it, but this truck was totally neglected I think the engine oil had 100k on it and of course it had no air filter.

Is it a stock header? If so can't you just buy a new down pipe at the parts store?

Does anyone else see a ghost looking around the top corner of the cab?

if you have Jack stands under the frame and a Jack under the axle you should be able to lower the axle down far enough with the shocks, swaybar, and track bar UN hooked. do you have stock springs? if so it should drop far enough to remove the springs if yo wanted to.

it should drop considerably with the shocks and sway bar disconnected. You may need to unhook the track bar at the axle end.

Did they make a 2wd pioneer?

Could be anything, if it was an axle I would get one from the junk yard, if its anything else I would get a complete rear end from the junk yard. The only way to tell is to pull the cover.

Steering stabilzer won't hurt anything but its a bandage for the problem. But a bandage my be what you need.

I'm confused

Yep take your time and get what you want. A good 3" kit realy is not that much money it will be worth waiting and saving the money to do it right.

I think I have seen shock extensions. Never used them so I don't know the pro's and con's but for a street rig it may be an option. It should be better than throwing away new shocks.

Used gears are fine they just need to be set up correctly. I would look harder for a complete axle I picked up my D30 for $100. You can definitely swap the complete axle faster with less headache than setting up the gears, and if you don't need to turn in your old axle for a core then you have some spare parts.

They are commonly called freeze plugs but they are actually not there for that reason. They are also known as "core hole plugs" and their main purpose is so that sand can be removed after the block is cast. I have never experienced them protecting an engine from freezing and cracking, but I have seen a few engines damaged from freezing and the "freeze plugs" were never pushed out.

On my truck I installed the rustys 3" AAL. This was shocks front coils and one additional leaf for the rear. I also used a skyjacker track bar bracket and stock track bar. This kit raised the front 3" and the rear about 1.5". The truck still is higher in the rear by at least an inch and I think looks very nice. I have had this on my truck for over 2 years with no problems at all. Even with the stock control arms the alignment is good. I don't wheel my truck hard mainly just use it for running around town, hunting, and fishing.

I have done this many times with diesel engines but never a gas burner. Biggest difference is the diesels have wet cylinder liners so no machine work is needed. I would wait before ordering any parts to see what you need first. Unless you know the complete history of the engine you could be surprised by over size pistons or bearings. I had to bore my 4.0 .060" when I did the overhaul at 150k miles. Also if the crank is in good shape you can replace the main bearings in frame too. You just remove the caps one at a time and turn the crank in the opposite direction of the bearing tab. You may need to put something into the oil hole to push against the bearing I used a bolt with the head ground down thinner than the bearing. Its alot of work to do it this way but if the cylinders are good and you don't have access to a hoist it will work.

what eagle is telling you is very common and I am sure will fix your problem. No re ground needed just new sockets.

x2

All the time? With lights on or off? When did it start?

Junk yards pull the battery before they put the vehicle on the yard. They usually throw them away or tear them up. You could ask the yard what they do with themand show them the picture. I got one for my truck at the junk yard for $3 if I remember correctly.

Noting is ever 100% in the Jeep world. LOL

Every xj I found with a skid plate also has factory tow hooks, you may want to grab them too if you don't have any. And yesit will fit.

if the resistor is bad it should still work on high speed.

x2 its not a new Jeep lol. while it may not be needed i am going to play it safe anyway. I will just use the jeep to make short trips in town till i hit 150 miles then take it to work (30 min drive) 2 days a week till i hit 500 miles. the change the oil. and may change the oil again with the next oil change to make sure the roll pin is not working out again.... it definitely won't hurt anything to take it easy for a while. I have a theory about motorcycle break in periods too. I don't think they are for the bikes but more for the rider.

x2

I have not built alot of small axles but I have built several very large axles and I never had to "break them in". Rebuild a rear end in a log truck and load it down and go. Rebuild an axle in a log skidder and send it to the woods. IMO you shouldnt be able to tell the difference between a ring gear and pinion with 50 miles or 50k miles. If its wearing something is not adjusted correctly. But who knows I have been know to do stuff wrong before. LOL