whowey

I've always filled my from the top..... Mostly because I'm too lazy to find or make a square drive tool.

Well.... being that the forum is Pete's private property and he is nice enough to provide it for our use... Only one opinion matters.. his. Whatever his decision...We have two choices...deal with it... or go buy that other MJ site and keep it going...

Is the fan the stock e-fan with the stock installation???? I tried what you are describing with an XJ... Worked great until the Jeep hit 210, and the factory relay kicked on and started the fan.... Filled the cabin with really, really bad smelling wiring and switch smoke.. This relay is mounted on the fender by the airbox. It runs the fan. Tap the orange wire going into it. Run that to a switch and a 12v source to the switch. Always remember to use a fuse inline. Safety first.... This is mine in my XJ.... But if you don't have the relay, you need it. You can't really wire this up safely any other way. You don't want 30amps running through your dash or wherever you put the switch at.

Well.... I thought they were the same... But looking at the online parts catalogs for the big stores. They list a different number for them...

Hahahahahahaha.... I knew you wouldn't be able to resist....

Actually maybe not.... read the story again... the state forestry service repo'ed a truck already.. bet the rest aren't in too good of shape...

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15684 http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=370891 Okay try those..... And now I want the damn thing even more...... :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

Does it work on Renix models??? :yes:

There is a guy on here that made one that resembles an old deuce and Half top. Looks really good...

Grinding noise sounds like T-case related....

Guess I get to be the guinea pig... Bought a can of this to cover my gas tank. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=380 Its pretty drippy and likes to run. Make sure to not a get a sniff of overspray of this stuff.. I now have a huge headache.... :doh:

I have two.. 94 ZJ with the 5.2 and a AWD... 14.5 mpg in all its glory. When I have the entire family we roll in big style.... It gets about 21 mpg and hauls all 6 of us. And I have the option of running E-85 when the fuel prices go stupid.

I'm not crazy about a non-steel line near the engine either. But you could create a sleeve of aluminum over the rubber tubing for the heat resistance. Yes.. the pump will put out quite a bit more than 40-50psi if deadheaded. But that's what the appendix(ballast resistor) of the 4-litre is for. And there are tubings that will easily take that much pressure. Teflon FEP or Tefzel would work nicely.

You could use the Streets and Trips version that comes with the GPS hook-up with it. Its plug and play...

Well.. I guess I will drag this thing screaming and kicking back onto topic... Here is a thread about his MJ build... some really sweet stuff on there. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/s ... hp?t=15684 And some really unbelievably cool pics of how that camper looks from all different angles in this one. Gawd... I wish I had a ton of spare cash..... :drool: :drool: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showt ... hp?t=25517

You are going to be ALOT closer to me... If you get into trouble anywhere from I-80 to the Illinois state line, I'll be able to lend some assistance.

http://www.krylon.com/products/metallic_paints/ I have some trim pieces and a couple shifter I would like to chrome. But the prices for having parts chromed is pretty awful. And to top it off neither of the places local-ish to me can chrome a shifter without chroming the part that actually engages the transmission. I'm wondering how this stuff looks when it dries, and is there any outrageous prep work needed to work with it???

From his description of the problem, I would guess that while changing the air tube, he sealed off a vacuum leak...

40-50 psi is too much for rubber lines???? No. Make sure you get the reinforced nitrile rubber or Viton lines and it will work. You may want to throw a bubble flare into the steel line wherever you create the patch. Like Geonovast said.. the piece from the pump to sender housing and from the sender housing to the frame rail are both rubber.

says the guy who had one :agree: Its now on the back of "beaterjeep"'s MJ. I wish I had it back... :( Eh, I could use a backrack instead. Rob L. It would look good with the matching visor.....

says the guy who had one :agree:

Hey now...I resemble that remark.... For me each has its own positives and negatives. For long trips, I prefer stick. But when in traffic.. the auto is by far and away a better choice than a numb left leg. For wheeling... Lots of rock makes an auto alot easier to work with. But with our terrain here in the MUDwest.. a stick is alot easier to deal with. But if you have dealt with teaching people to drive stick... you know there are enough moving parts in a manual to make you miserable replacing them...

I think you might have hit it right there. Those loops on the bedsides scream 70's toyota.

Lets see.... The RE XJ didn't sell... You find yet another MJ that really needs work... It has the buckets I told you were comfortable... You don't need another project... Angela told you to buy it.... The owner is a moron... but cash would talk... And its not in your driveway why??? :D

It's not called "rust" when it happens to aluminum, but aluminum and salt do not coexist for long. The salt always wins. I was trying to find some sort of positive in that disaster....