Dzimm

Still looking

Noises while turning usually point to sway bar links or trackbar most often, could really be anything in the front suspension. As for hearing it in the top end of a gear, I have no clue.

Close to me. It's pretty well picked over though. Nothing left that I could use. Surprised to see the body in halfway decent condition though.

Well thank you. Hopefully there will be another meet up I can make it to

That's my wedding weekend so unfortunately I can't make it.

Glad you got a hold of it! I was talking to Joey through the sale and answering a bunch of questions for her. She was very happy to hand it off to you. Can't wait to see what you do with it.

Prairie du Chien is a 3 hour drive for me. Might be interested if the place and time works with my schedule.

I'm currently working out making fiberglass or carbon fiber versions of the front airdam, which would obviously be possible however I'm concerned with the lack of flexibility. I looked at using 2 part urethanes and also vacuforming but they wouldn't be cost effective at all unless there were a lot of parts sold to offset the cost. If you could economically recreate them with some form of flexible plastic that would be awesome. I wonder though, what I've seen from 3D printing is the layering causes weakness. I've never seen a flexible material 3D printed though so I suppose that could be a different story. Do you have a big enough printer to do the large pieces in one shot or will you have the make them multiple parts? I'm very interested in what you can do with this.

I don't have a picture but I picked a desk up for the future mother-in-law in downtown Des Moines about a month ago. The driveway was so steep that my 4.5" lifted MJ almost bottomed out in the rear. The lady drove an SUV and said she's never seen a car make it up the driveway. There were tons of scrape marks at the bottom and I'm sure it ate a lot of bumpers.

I'm sure that winch costs about as much as some of us paid for our MJs.. There should be an * in there, it's only designed to fit the JT, I'm sure someone could make it work on an MJ.

Just got word from the owner, a member of CC from Vegas is getting the truck! He's picking it up tomorrow.

They made 100 of them. Dealer special out of CA. They were a street version of the Archer Brothers race trucks. Really it's a regular MJ with a body kit on it.

Yeah if you pulled the dash already it's definitely suspect. Look at what you can before pulling it tho

Seller said they will tell whoever buys it about the club so even if it's not a current member, we will hopefully have another join.

I've been talking to the seller just because I was curious about it and they are super nice. I was able to get a brief history on the truck. "This truck has been in my family since early 90s. My bro bought it from original owner in San Jose, CA. We are in Oakdale, CA next county over. It was our sons truck" The seller knows what it is and wants it to go to someone who will restore it and keep it.

Man too far away.. someone snag it before it hits the pick n pull.

Your next step would be to take the line off the distribution block to see if fluid comes out. You don't want to replace the distribution block if you don't have to.

There is a really small vacuum line that comes out of the hvac box through the firewall right next to the heater core hoses. Make sure it's there and hooked up. It had gotten brittle and completely broke off my 98 and had the same problem.

Find someone who is parting out an MJ and ask them to cut them out for you.

I certainly had no plans on going all out on equipment for this. Just wasn't sure if there was any 1 or 2 part compounds I could pour into a fiberglass mold that don't require heating or a press. I found some urethane options used in prop making but they would be expensive for something this large. I've got to get the part cleaned up and get a nice surface on it. Then make a mold and try a fiberglass part first and see what the result is.

Up to you. Some remove it, some leave it. I removed it when I redid all the brakes on both my trucks. Had them both loaded and they stopped just fine without it. Granted I don't take the highway when heavily loaded. There are many threads here on how to properly remove it. If you haul a lot, I'd probably leave it and make sure it's actually working. If you leave it, you need the bracket on the diff cover to attach it to. I've probably got an extra one I can send you if you don't have it. There are also threads on how to properly set it up.

Do you have Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet around there? I find the farm style stores carry larger socks that are quite comfortable for a decent price. However I wear boots all day so I can't really speak to their ankle height socks but they carry my size (15). Fox River is a brand that I discovered recently and I like their socks quite a lot. Very soft and breathe quite well. I even have some of their ankle socks and they have a slightly thicker cushion on the back to protect from rubbing on the back of the shoe. They are quite pricy though as they are made here in Iowa.

They were a dealer promotion out of somewhere in California in 1987. I've read the ground effects were produced or designed by the Archer Brothers and as of 2009, they supposedly had some stock left in their warehouse but never got back with the info. I want to say it was HOrnbrod who had contact with them but I could be wrong. We know 100 street Comanches were produced, plus some extra probably so maybe a total of 125 full kits built, and that's probably generous. Actual numbers are unknown and never will be known. As for the molds that produced these parts, they are probably long gone. I have also read that the Archer Brothers have no interest in the past and won't respond to anything about it anymore. It's possible they may still have a pile of parts collecting dust somewhere but I don't think we will ever know.

Yeah definitely not going to do any sort of injection molding (that's my day job) and wouldn't work very well for a part like this anyhow. I'm not really worried about fiberglass, and honestly would probably more consider carbon fiber myself, I was just curious if anyone knew of a different method feasible for diy that would have some flexibility to it. The urethane method is one I came across that could work but is likely going to be way more work than it's worth.

That's interesting. The bedliners I've seen have all been thin and very hard plastic. Granted none were for an MJ.