Dzimm

Would you do $20 shipped? I'm just East of Des Moines, IA (my zip is 50054) so shipping would be cheap. Edit: I'm assuming it's in decent shape since you didn't say it was broken at all?

Yes it would! They all function the same, only difference is in some year they added the battery sensor hole in the bottom.

I'm looking for a battery tray for my XJ. It can be cracked, broken, or otherwise worthless. As long as it can be halfway bolted down and keep a battery away from the fan I don't care what it looks like. They can be bought new for $40 shipped but I don't want to spend that for a piece of plastic in a beater Jeep driven 3 months of the year. Hoping someone has one they would otherwise throw away so it can be cheap. If not, I'll use plywood.

I never expected to find this. Literally no coolant could flow through the block at all because the crap in the head gasket was rock hard. Very glad it didn't blow up on me.

I never intended to make a thread about this Jeep but figured now I should as I'm doing way more work on it than I ever intended. Bought it maybe 3yrs ago (don't remember for sure) with broken motor mount bolts but ran decent with new rad. Doors and main body was in okay shape but rockers and floors were rusted. Some PO put steel down for new floors but it rusted away since they put the carpet back down and didn't paint it. Got Midas to remove broken motor mount bolts and put new ones in, day of, on a Saturday for $100! I also replaced the leaking vacuum lines so I got a halfway decent for Iowa, running driving XJ for $950ish total. Deer hit the driver's side on my way to work about a week after buying it and dented both doors. At that point I decided it was a beater and minimal work and money would be put into it. Shortly after the water pump died but luckily I had a spare used one and just made a gasket with a Manilla folder so it cost me nothing. Had to rebuild the t-case last year because the chain went slack and was slipping and slapping the case. Not a hard job at all but the more I worked on little things here and there, the more I realized how poorly maintained this Jeep was. Installed a new radiator in February (I think) of this year because it started leaking. Pictures will come eventually of previous stuff but some of it is in my MJ threads already. This Jeep really only gets driven in winter because it developed a misfire and started running rich. Did some testing over a year ago and found cylinder 3 to have low compression but kept driving it anyway. Initial testing on that also told me it was a valve issue (no longer seems that way). This year I moved it a few times and it was really rough. Sounds terrible and used to billow white smoke so I decided it was time to do something. I ordered a new O2 sensor and PCV valves for it to try and fix the running rich condition. The O2 sensor went in with no issue. I also got a can of Restore because I was going to try it for the low compression but when I pulled the PCVs out I found chocolate milk in the valve cover. Pulled the oil cap to find the same thing and the dipstick read way high and was all milk. Ran to Napa, got some oil and did a change and let it run some of the crap out but decided it was time to tear the motor apart. Found the new rad I put in 6ish months ago to be leaking in the dead center with no apparent damage so I'm going to see if they can send me a replacement. As for the motor, the valve cover was held on with basically 4 bolts, the rest were only hand tight, explaining why everything was covered in oil. The head is removed and it appears to have been a headgasket leak into cylinder 3 and maybe a little into 4. There is a carbon ridge but it's not terrible, and the cylinders still have the markings in them so that's good. Going to order seals, check for bent pushrods, clean it up, and put it all back together and hope for the best.  Also don't EVER use Stop Leak. The coolant passages in the headgasket were completely blocked by it. Thought I had flushed that all out after I bought it but obviously not.

How long has it been in there? Did you drive it much or was it fairly immediate results?

I'll second St Augustine. Very nice there.

Yeah that's what it sounds like. Definitely not a permanent fix.

I've seen nothing but good things about that Restore product. I actually picked up a can to try on my XJ before tearing it down. It's more for raising compression than blow by but could help.

Good to know. Guess I never looked enough to realize it only had one sensor and never knew OBD1 Jeeps only had 1. Thanks!

Okay I give up. Anyone know what the part number is for the downstream O2 sensor for a 95 XJ? I can only find upstream everywhere except an occasional super offbrand downstream that doesn't help me. Do they happen to be the same and I just not know that? Preferably I'm looking for an NTK.

Jeep Driver is right. Sold me my blue MJ and a bunch of parts. Last I heard he was getting rid of pretty much all of his Jeeps and parts.

Yeah the links I'm going to have to figure out since I'm lowering the truck. May need to make completely new mounts above the shock mounts.

I'm so confused now. I know there was never a factory bar and the SDtruck description has incorrect information but so does about every website on anything Comanche. The 468 bar is listed as MJ on every site and multiple forums say it's the swb MJ bar. The mounting isn't ideal but it's for the MJ so I'm confused why you say it's not for an MJ. Also confused as to why Addco says it only fits up to 91. No difference between 91 and 92 that I'm aware of. HOrnbrod had a WJ Addco on his LWB with taller links for the lift.

It definitely looks more early 80s with the XJ light. Agreed, a plastic insert for mounting and a clear rounded lens over top to smooth the corner up close would make it look original. From this far back it looks like it belongs there.

It does actually look kinda good. If the body lines were square back there it would be perfect. Does it look like the trimmed the lights at all? Can't imagine they'd be the same height. Do you have pictures of further back with more of the truck? Want a feel for what it looks like with more of the truck.

How is it not for an MJ? Kit 468 is listed a rear MJ on all the websites that sell it and I saw it referenced on forums as well. It appears to be a stock image, that image is used for Addco bars all over the place. As for other vehicles, we don't have good junkyards around here at all. You're lucky to find anything older that 2000 and they are usually picked clean. They also pull parts for you meaning they charge stupid amounts for parts. I was pricing piecing it together but would have cost about the same as the kit for me in my area.

SD Truck Springs has the Comanche Addco rear sway bar on sale right now. $172 with free shipping. With code SANTA10 it's another $10 off. They do take 4-6 weeks though as they are now built to order. https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23571

This tells me it has an internal issue and I believe it to be exhaust valve cylinder 3. The running rich could certainly be another issue but I don't want to spend all kinds of time chasing stuff like that knowing internally it has problems. When I've got time either tomorrow or this weekend I'll get it into the shop and run some tests on it to see what current results are and check fuel pressure at the rail. It leaks pretty much everything anyway so it needs resealed so inspection makes sense regardless.

Roughly $1000 to rebuild what I can, new battery, and throw new shocks on maybe. It only gets driven for winter so as long as it starts everytime and gets better than 10mpg I'm fine with it.

I'm leaning more and more towards this. I really don't know what the bottom end looks like and won't know until I tear into it. Maybe just rebuild top end and replace oil pump and reseal bottom. The motor has roughly 170k miles on it so it shouldn't be terrible, then again it shouldn't have had a valve issue either. This Jeep was really not well taken care of so I could find anything in there.

I'll have to redo them. I checked 2 years ago and the oil pressure was good but cylinder 3 had low compression, something like 95psi iirc. The exhaust sucks in during the misfire which is what tells me it's got an exhaust valve problem. I haven't done leakdown on it as I don't have an air compressor.

I really just need to get through another winter, maybe 2 before I can afford the daily driver I want without having 2 large car payments. I've got some other home improvement projects that need done so I don't want to sink more than $1000 or so into this. All it needs is tires (probably getting the ones from my red truck) shocks, and engine rebuild. If I can do it cheaper it just means I can get other stuff done sooner like lowering the red truck..

I work in plastic injection molding and can tell you it would be very difficult convincing a company to put up the money to do this even if they already have the mold and press. I can almost guarantee the mold is long gone at this point but if they could be located it would be worth asking them. Hypothetically if the mold could be found and purchased and didn't need repaired, it wouldn't be cheap to buy or ship. Then you'd have to find a custom molding company to do it and you'd have to put up the money for them to do it and it wouldn't be cheap. Honestly would probably be less work and cheaper to reverse engineer them and get a company in China to make them.

Yeah the head is a little more involved and I would have to buy most of the tools making a drop in unit cheaper. Say I do nothing with the bottom end, could I drop a reman head on it without having the block decked? I don't see why I wouldn't be able to but worth asking I guess.