Dzimm

My panel is grounded to a rod in the ground like it's supposed to. There are no "extra" grounds at the panel meaning whatever those go to isn't bonded with the panel. The problem is that I have no idea where they are grounded to and I found a random ground cut off in the crawlspace as well as a bunch of PEX so I'm sure that ground bonding is missing and the ground may not even be grounded at all anymore. The problem still would persist tho as I shouldn't have voltage on the ground without a fault right?

No idea, they run through the wall somewhere and I've been unable to locate their destination anywhere in the crawlspace or attic.

How small is considered "margin of error"?

Very little. The things I had been putting off to work on this are catching up to me so I've been busy with other stuff. Everything is still torn apart and the breaker causing the majority of the stray voltage is turned off. My kitchen is half torn apart and it's really starting to eat at me. The more I think about it the more I just really don't understand how I'm having this problem. So circuit 1 is causing nearly 5v on the boxes/ground. Turning all other breakers off results in a drop of less than a volt. I have traced the wire for circuit 1 from the panel (followed it in the attic so it's confirmed not to branch), all the way to the first outlet. The first outlet then feeds into a second, which feeds a third. No other wire is present aside from this assumed ground. Now by disconnecting hot at outlet 1 that feeds 2 and 3 (basically only outlet 1 is connected to the panel) I still have the same 5v leading me to believe it has to be between the first outlet and the panel. However, I ran a temporary wire from the panel, across the floor and to the first outlet to bypass the wire in the wall, but still got 5v regardless if the 2nd or 3rd outlet were hooked up. Just doesn't make sense.

If the sale to Stroker doesn't go through, I would absolutely love to have that front airdam. Willing to pay shipping as well. This is the second to have illuded me by mear hours..

They have already been out. At first I thought I was getting too much voltage coming in but come to find out my fluke battery was dying. He looked at my issue and basically explained like what we've discussed, some sort of ground fault somewhere but he said everything was testing good on their end.

I've inspected a few boxes throughout the rest of the house and the kitchen and bathroom are the only ones with the ground wire. I peaked around the edges of the boxes and didn't find anything on any of the sides. Some of the wires are white and some a brown so likely was whatever wire they had available when it was done. Also forgot to note, there is a mix of copper and PEX under the house so if it was grounded to the water pipes originally it's likely not now.

No I was yesterday. The wire up there appears to run between two outlets on circuit 1. I didn't do any real digging in the insulation to find anything else because I'm almost positive it's asbestos.

I can't find where it goes. Other than the wire in the attic that runs down the wall on each end, there is no other wires anywhere that I can see.

I did find a roughly 6 gauge grounding wire on the pipes attached to the pipe on each side of the water meter and then runs out the cinderblock. There is another maybe 12 gauge green wire that's clamped to the pipe and runs about 6 feet across the floor joists and is cut off. We did find a single white wire in the attic that appears to connect two of the circuit 1 boxes but otherwise nothing. This is pretty much what I've been doing. I'm now at the point of doing light fixtures as all the trouble outlets and switches have been pulled out and inspected.

Yes. Any change I make for testing gets put back the way it was before hand, aside from wire nuts but the same wires that were in the tape are being put in the nut.

Good morning. I'm doing little bits of troubleshooting as I have time but I've got some other stuff I need to get done before work today so it'll be spotty. I really appreciate your continued effort to help me with this! Not much has changed. I did a lot of looking into circuit 1 and couldn't figure out where the hot was coming from. I unhooked each receptical from the far end forward and the problem never went away. I even ran a temporary wire from the panel to the front of the circuit to bypass the wire in the wall and it gave the same result so I've moved on from that one for now. I've been pulling all the fixtures and boxes on the other trouble circuits finding the terrible tapped connections and fixing them but not much else. I did find a light switch wire that had been arching between the neutral and the box(which is hot) so I've got that pulled out of the wall for now so it can't arch. This box is on one of the trouble circuits. I did find something interesting with that box however, there is a light switch in it that controls a light in the entryway. The power comes in at the light and they have it wired so the white wire carries power to the switch and back to the light on the black wire. I unhooked the wire on the light end so it no longer would have power to the switch. However, somehow it has power on both the wires when it's completely disconnected from the hot source and no matter what position the switch is in. I'm currently focusing on this wire currently. One other notable thing is that I went through the crawl space to check for problems there and found a wire dangling with an exposed end that showed hot with the proximity tester. So I traced it to where it came through the floor but it wasn't in any of the nearby boxes above it. So I got my multimeter and it read 2v between the wires, just like the boxes upstairs. It ran up against another wire that carried power through to the bathroom and bedrooms (non trouble circuit) and out if curiosity I cut the dangling wite further back before it touched the live wire. Low and behold it no longer read 2v back there. The short section that still ran against the live wire however read 2v on both ends of it. Do you suppose it's possible that there is just interference going on between the wires that touch causing things to have power when they shouldn't?

Sorry just eating some lunch. Okay I'll keep troubleshooting. Thanks!

I turned some stuff back on and with 1 off the furnace was on so the furnace isn't tied to circuit 1. Ive been pulling some stuff out just to check everything and found this switch for the kitchen lights on 3 switches. Isn't the red supposed to be on the side with hot?

It's running now with circuit 1 off so it's not tied

Nothing that I could find or saw. I suppose maybe power to the waterheater or furnace could be tied to it but I don't really know.

I didn't find anything else on circuit 1. Just 3 kitchen outlets.

Circuit 2 is the dishwasher and all the crap under the sink. Circuit one appears to only be 3 outlets, which are all pulled out of the wall.

This light has 3 switches. One of the runs appears to be stranded wire too

Circuit 1 on: 1 box to pipes is 4.5v 2 box to pipes is 0.2v Circuit 2 on: 1 box to pipes 0.5v 2 box to pipes is 2.2v

So I found a light that stays illuminated for a few seconds after the switch is off so I pulled the fixture down and found this.. Backyard Bubba was definitely here.

Done with this test. Same problem circuits minus 1. Circuit 2 box to pipes: Breaker 22(circuit 1) = 0.2v Breaker 20 = 0.3v Breaker 18 = 0.1v Breaker 14(circuit 2) = 2.1v For fun I tried circuit 1 box to pipes as well: Breaker 22(circuit 1) = 4.8v Breaker 20 = 0.2v Breaker 18 = 0.9v Breaker 14 = 1.0v This agreed with previous testing that circuit 1 and 2 are the biggest issue but 20 and 18 also have an issue.

City water gas water heater. One of the other two is for the dryer. The other idk. I do however have 2 block off plates in the kitchen with 220v wiring capped off. That makes 5 total 220v outlets on 4 breakers and I have no clue where the splice is or if something was actually disconnected properly. The laundry room was in the kitchen originally and the stove was on a different wall hence why these other two exist.

No I'm still at work, it's kinda slow tonight. Won't be home until the AM. Neutral and ground bars are connected in both the main and sub panel. Issue for another day in the sub panel.

This is exactly what I'm thinking may be the issue.