cruiser54

You can do that if you wanna mess with the XJ prop valve. But, then you need to grab the "guts" of a 1994 to 1998 ZJ prop valve because of the discs.

Or the internal rubber hose is split, loose or messed up in some other way.

I prefer using the 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster/master for a few reasons. One is the fact that the mounting studs are a smaller diameter than the original. That's a big deal when you go to put it back together. There's a metal plate that shifts upon removal of the original booster. Makes it a b*@ch to get a booster in with the big studs. The master comes with FLEXIBLE brake lines off the master. All you have to do is cut the solid ends of those "hoses", flare them to the factory plumbing and it all goes together easily. No fighting/bending/cussing. There is a commonly available brake light/torque converter cut out switch that bolts right in. You don't have to grind the brake rod to fit the old style switches. The 99 to 2004 booster/master is easy to find in junkyards.

Use a dual diaphragm booster if you like. It's a great upgrade and there are a few ways to do it. More on that later. So, the inside diameter of your MJ and XJ's brake lines is .100" The MJ distro block passages are .050"!! Quite a restriction. That thing has to go. It is very easy to just couple the front lines together and use one of the lines from the master cylinder that go to the rear axle from the master, to an adjustable prop valve and on out the back. You don't have to fight rusty fittings. Changing/swapping a prop valve can be a real bear

Don't use the XJ prop valve. Eliminate the distribution valve, connect the 2 front lines together, run one brake line to the rear with an adjustable prop valve.

I think I have one of those. There are some nice Japanese pop-rivet tools out there.

country of origin should be the largest factor in determining our parts and tool purchases.

All vacuum lines, intake bolts, sensor connections, ground points must be dealt with before even considering replacement parts. Keep in mind you likely still have some rather $#!&ty gas in the Jeep. As for the lights, that is covered in my ground refreshing Tip. So, Tips 1 through 5 must be COMPLETED before anything else. Intake manifold bolts and hoses must be inspected carefully. The hose to the MAP sensor has to be perfect!!

schardain is a good egg.

I was hoping you would come up here and we could go to lunch.

Just keep on truckin' at this. It will come together. Avoid the Parts Cannon!!

I had a wagon in that color. a Limited. Wish I still had it. I bought it off a customer at the dealership when I was Service Manager. My wife loved it. Swapped it to 3.55 gears from the 2.35 gears it had. Added the factory rear sway bar. De-smogged it. But, it had a weird issue that scared the hell outta my wife. Sometimes, randomly, it would bog when accelerating into traffic. I didn't now then what I found out later. That POS Ford ignition module could cause that issue. The simple solution was to get an HEI distributor from a straight 6 GM motor, swap an AMC v8 gear on to the bottom, give the dizzy a 12 volt ignition source, gap the plugs to .045" and haul @$$. I did that conversion to numerous Jeeps after it became common knowledge. Now you can buy complete dizzys off the internet. FWIW, I have the hand written notes of the AMC engineer outlining the factory parts needed to put an AMC V8 into an Eagle. The only thing needing fabrication is the front diff mount to the engine.

There are a ton of Libertys at U-Pick-It in Prescott Valley

Start with an angle grinder? Why not just upgrade to an aftermarket kit? I think having 2WD LOW is just asking for rear driveline issues due to doubling the torque to one axle.

can we see pics of your Eagle please?

You must do the connector refreshing, firewall ground and C101 cleaning before replacing any parts except the obvious tune-up components.

Yeah. Check those bolts. You have checked the harmonic balancer and it's not come apart and smacking the timing cover?

Make sure the intake manifold is not loose and that the hoses below the throttle body are good. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Refresh the ground on the firewall per my Tip 1 at www.cruiser54.com.

It won't make any difference if you leave it as is. That deal in the distributor is for sequentially firing the injectors. That's it. If the ECU doesn't see that signal, it adapts. No worries.

Jeff, have you tried unplugging the injectors one by one to see if the noise is load related?

Had you ever liberally lubed the window channels with silicone?

Tested, but are they the correct flow rate? Which injectors did you get?