cruiser54

Heck ya. If it helps people out, I'm all for it.

Did this photo link work? <a href=" target="_blank"><img src=" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Why not change the heading for the Renix tips to Comanche and Cherokee?

Looks like my TPS instructions are on there..........

Highly Overrated.

Good quality CPS for you 87 to 90 Renix. I've done the CPS mod and it's worth it. Cruiser’s Renix CPS Advance Mod The sensor portion of the CPS needs to slide up the perforated bar towards the top of the engine. Mark the perforated bar's top end with paint or marker. Place the CPS in a vice, just not quite clamping the bar, the sensor resting on the vice jaws, with the Top part protruding. Place a bolt that fits tightly into the hole at the Top part of the bar. With a hammer, tap the Top part of the bar and it will slide through the sensor portion of the CPS. Stop when the sensor portion is about 3/8" from the edge of the bolt hole Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 07-30-2012

Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.

Loose manifold bolts are very common on both the 2.5 and 4.0. Check/replace the vacuum lines on the intake manifold just below the throttle body .

It will work. If your situation is truly as you describe, just use my write up and git r done.

Use the Renix gasket and port match. Done this 3 times with excellent results.

Take from this what you need. Personally, I'd keep the Renix intake but use the HO exhaust manifold. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 07/24/2012

No kidding!!

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/help-leaking-fuel-fuel-line-quick-disconnects-93029/index3/#post2168493

Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 07-30-2012 Tach signal comes from ICU/coil. Loss of the signal is usually related to CPS failure. Here's 2 things you can do. Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future. The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner. Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU. While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in. I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep. Revised 11-29-2011

Belongs on #3 for sure.

Here's something to do in your spare time: I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/23/2012

Not necessary to seal them. Your valve cover gasket leaked out the rear.

I've seen this twice on 86 vintage XJs when I was at the dealership. The axles were jigged wrong and the axle tube was actually going into the diff area at a slight angle. There's a little bearing in there that the axle turned on and it would howl until 4wd was engaged. Passenger side axle is in 2 pieces. Where they meet, there's a little pilot type bearing. When in 2wd, they are going different speeds and the bearing howls. In 4wd, they're both going the same speed since they're locked together. No noise.

My buddy did and was very disappointed. I'm doing a stroker. Pretty much done. If I were computer literate, I would post photos.

This pretty much sums it up. I have done 4 of the harnesses, with one of the Jeeps getting the Autopals. Originally Posted by xjsnake http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/headlights-151196/index2/ - post2069179http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/headlights-151196/index2/ - post2069179 Upgraded headlights the legal (ish) way... 1) Get a new headlight harness. You can make your own http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm Or you can buy one: http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx The eautoworks harnesses used to be quite cheap until everyone on this forum started recommending them and the price was raised accordingly. You can pick them up for $29.99 here http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csd/full.aspx?Page=48 part number 36-3580. It says it fits a chevy blazer but it's the same as the eautoworks harness and I'm running the LMC harness in my XJ. There are other more expensive options for pre-made harnesses but I'm not super familiar with those. 2) Upgrade to H4 housings There are two types of regulations pertaining to headlight housings. There are DOT approved housings which are legal in the US and there are Ecode lights which are European housings and aren't legal in the US although many people use them as they are considered superior housings due to the light pattern. DOT Rampage http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_501.htm IPF http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_1600.htm Delta http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_121.htm Hella http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_02.htm Ecode Autopals (look on ebay for Autopal 200mm H4 housing) Hella http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=744 Cibie http://www.clearcorners.com/products/cibie/ Personally I won't buy housings that have plastic lenses, I much prefer glass but your mileage may vary. 3) Get good bulbs Some of the above housings come with bulbs included with them. I tend not to recommend bulbs as the choices are extremely vast and everyone has their own preferences as to color and wattage. 4) Aim your headlights properly! I can't say enough how much improperly aimed headlights annoy me on the road plus you are wasting all that time and effort to upgrade the lighting if you don't aim the light where it does the most good... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78017 5) On HID Lights I do not recommend HID's for use in XJ's... People will show links to cheap HID kits and "Projectors" off of ebay and other sites which will give you a lot of light and will also throw a lot of light in all directions making you very visible to police and possibly blinding other drivers. Read http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html for a well written description of the problems with HID kits. When using HID's you need a true projector housing. I'm sure people will chime in and say they run HID's and ebay housings and have had no problems but I'm describing the legal (ish) way. If you want to go down the road of HID's, take a look at what true projector housings cost http://www.kbcarstuff.com/6054-200mm...-p/xd-6054.htm http://www.brightheadlights.com/hid-upcoming.htm or you can buy the projectors and retrofit them into existing housings if you are so inclined: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/hea...9/#post1391556 There are a myriad of options available to consumers with the limiting factor being cost. One can spend under $100 and have significantly upgraded their lighting or they can spend $1000 and upgrade their lighting more. It's all in how much money you want to spend. For those wanting to do some of these upgrades but not necessarily all I would do them in the following order: 1) Headlight Harness (major improvement even with sealed beams) 2) Housings and Associated Bulbs 3) Hid and Projectors (Cost prohibitive to do correctly) For installation of the harness and housings see this excellent write up: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/my-h4-upgrade-114440/ Disclaimer: Always check your local and state laws as some places have more stringent lighting laws than others... I am in no way associated with any of the above companies and none of what I say should be taken as the absolute truth or only way to do things. Flame on...

Remove it. Put some salt in it along with some ice cubes and shake the crap out of it. Repeat as needed. This is an old trick to remove burned on brown crap from coffee carafes.

I agree wholeheartedly.

Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin. Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.

Splits at the left taillight and goes across the back. Do you know about the ground behind the left taillight? Good idea to remove the screw, scrape to bare metal and reattach securely. Got a trailer wiring harness on that truck?

Fluid level check and change as needed. How old are the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter? If unknown, replace all of them. Look at the brake pads and shoes. Long crank time is normal on 87 to 90 4.0s.